Anyone know a good source of decals?

[Nitroholic]

I need a set of decals for my Panzer III, but I simply cannot find anyone selling what I want.

 

I want 3 of the small black crosses, and some large numbers...red on white... hopefully with 04 or something similar.

 

like this one:

 

http://www.track48.com/shop/xnews.php?newsid=284

[Alex97]

Freshrc?

[jordan_bench10]

You on facebook mate ? If so grj graffix is the man hell pretty much do anything you need

[Noj]

Nothing at axels or rctank?

[Nitroholic]

You on facebook mate ? If so grj graffix is the man hell pretty much do anything you need

 

Do not, will not, ever, ever, EVER have anything to do with 'social' media in any shape or form. It's the biggest evil in modern society bar none. So...er...no, I don;t have a Facebook account.

 

RCTank had a set of Tiger decals that were close...the Leibstandarte Adolf Hitler 214 ones .... but it's not 'right' enough. If it had been 204 I would have bought it and cut the 2 off!

[Noj]

Hand paint them? Fine masking/trimming work of course, end result is natural...

Alternatively, have you considered the late war 'floral' design? Have a word with TC, got his finger on the floral pulse at the mo...

[Nitroholic]

Had it been a Sherman....then I would have extended the barrel and gone for a floral design to avoid all those 'negative waves'

 

mind you...now you mention it...might not be a bad shout to paint it myself. Frisket mask is something I keep meaning to try

[Tamiyacowboy]

yeah yeah, theres nowt wrong with my flower tanks. i mean by the time you have uttered " wtf tamiyacowboy " i have side loaded you full of BB pellets and am on the run flatout

as quick as the m41 carries me. 

 

 

tip guys, its a craft tip but you will thank me..... over time we had to cut stencils by hand and or trace/draw them.

these days the old inkjet - lazerjet printers can do a good job. but its the transfer method thats most hard. 

 

now two ways are possible, the first is using a lifting agnet like isopropl alcohol or acetone thinner and photocopyed images.

rubbing the liquid onto the reverse side of the paper, causes the ink to lift and lay onto your surface aka a transfer like effect.

 

better still is popping to your local supermarket and down the isle where you find the tin foil for the turkeys and the greese proof papers.

your looking for a product called freezer sheets .

when hone pop this sheet into your paper tray on your printer and run it through to have your image printed on.. cut out your image 

and peel off the backing paper part, appy to model and fine tip end of a paint brush just tack down the edging. 

 

paint quick and let it tack up a fair bit before your remove the sticky sheeting. 

 

as always its your risk, but thats how we transfer mask technical images for painting/spraying up.

nice thing is you can cut the whole image out in sections and apply them where needed ( ie centers of letters and the likes )

 

 

 

Freezer paper also may need heat setting to transfer the images, i used an old finishing iron ( wing iron).

but heat and plastic dont work to well sometimes. 

 

the other choice is more dirty and hands on, using a laminate pouch.

this is a sheet of thin micro thick film with a none stick paper protector.

print your decals to a A4 sheet, then cut off the sticky film sheet for the harder plastic case

and stick it to your A4 printed sheet. 

 

cut out your decals with a very sharp blade ( fine tip number 11 or thinner blade)

you now have a very thin flexable stencil , you can leave the paper stuck to the plastic sheet,

or you can grab a full can of WD40 and bater the stencil in liquid wd40.

the paper will come of very easy, the adhesive will be eaten and disloved away via the wd40

but take time and rub it all off with a cloth/paper towel. 

 

freezer paper for stuff that can take a heat set transfer ( print to the waxy shiney side and iron the reverse )

laminate pouches for that full on re-suable stencil pattern ( depending on printer resolution and your cutting ability you can get very deep detail.

but you have to be aware for stencil making and the need not to have islands ).

 

 

Now its a huge amount of work BUT, you wont be needing that mudding stuff, that weathering dust and that fixer. 

just grab your paint and a brush with a paper towel, dip brush to paint rub onto towel and drag across the stencil.

its gonna leave streaks and gapping in the finished decal, not that block white number or black cross but its going to have that

rubbed scratched etc etc look. it may need some weathering, but its not going to need a lot and it wont need the sandpaper edges trick

Edited March 31, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy