Can't even start my car using a starter box - Help

[Joeloliver]

I have really struggled to start my trophy truggy from day one. So I have bought a SMD starter box  and an engine warmer.

 

The car starts and runs on the box but once off the box it stops. I have reset all the needles back to factory and still no luck.

 

When I tip the car on the side. Lots of fuel comes out of the exhaust. I have altered the idle but the gap does not change.

 

The clutch / pullstart / bearing have all been replaced. I must have spent the best part of

Edited March 3, 2015 by Joeloliver

[scrumpy jack]

Bit more info required on your car:

 

So you have had if from new? If so has it been run in properly?

 

Have you tried different/new glow plugs? 

 

What fuel and plug are you using?

 

If you can give us a little bit more detail and information I'm sure we can help.

[Joeloliver]

Thanks.

 

I bought it new and ran it in properly. I have tried different glow plugs. 

 

25% nitro fuel

 

I took it to an RC shop and changed the clutch, They said it was changed to aluminium. I checked it and it's white plastic. They told me they changed the glow plug. But I think I need to get a new one just be sure.

 

I'll see if you guys can help failing that I will try a different RC shop..

[Carpmart]

Even for 'expert' users nitro can be difficult.

 

My advice is to post a very complete list of everything, motor, plug, fuel, what you do to start it, the glow starter you use, the age of the fuel, how you prime it etc etc.... the more information the better....the cleverer people on here will help you out.  The less clever like myself, will gasp in awe at the knowledge of the few...

[HYPER-BOY]

When it is started on the box and ticking over is it a nice constant rev or spluttering, if you put your hand by the pipe exit does it get covered with oil and fuel?

 

Sounds like you're running it far too rich, if you tip it up and fuel comes out.  It is dumping too much fuel into the engine and basically putting out the glow plug - flooding.

 

Take the plug out and put the glow starter on it to make sure it is 'glowing'.

 

Sorry to ask, I am not being rude.. When you say you are changing the idle screw and the gap doesn't change, you sure you're not undoing the screw that allows you to reposition the carb? or (if it has one) a mid range needle?  You need the gap when you look down the carb to be approx 1mm.

 

Once you are back to normal get her started on the box and rev it, if it cuts out then lean it in (HSN) by 1/16, start and rev again.. You should get to a point where it doesn't cut out and it revs nicely.. but with a nice stream of smoke.

 

Failing that slowly lean the LSN and the idle rev's should pick up..

 

Don't lean too much though, we are talking micro turns to get it right.  I have always sorted the HSN first from a carb reset but have had to tweak the LSN to get it running well enough to be able to do this..

 

It is hard to get it right and sometimes I have felt like smashing it up.. But you will get it right!! 

[Joeloliver]

Thanks for the reply. Ill have another go tomorrow. It has a nice constant rev and ill check the idel screw.

[Tamiyacowboy]

Thanks for the reply. Ill have another go tomorrow. It has a nice constant rev and ill check the idel screw.

 

No dont touch nothing !!! 

 

me and hyper have the exact same thought, and i was going to reply with the same he has said. 

 

now if your engine is running and you say it has a constant rev. 

what we mean by rev is not ringgggggg. gggg gg g duh and it stops, we mean does the can run ie keep going or does it stall like ring ring duh duh duh put n stops.

 

if you can what engine are you running, on the side it should say something like hpi s4.3 and either a brand name or a generic brand tag.

if we know what motor your running we can deduct if its a idle screw your adjusting or infact a screw thats used to clamp the carb to the engine itself.

Edited March 3, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy

[Joeloliver]

Runs then stops suddenly once off the box. Hpi 4.6 trophy truggy. New version.

[HYPER-BOY]

Pics, maybe video would be splendid

[jordanp]

idle screw should be between the carb and engine, sounds to rich to me aswell, id recomend what the above all say

[Joeloliver]

I managed to get it going and changed the idle. The wheels still spin but the biggest issue is. The car suddenly stops. 

 

A ting / metal ping sound and stops. It come from the engine. Also the pullstart handle goes real taught at the same time. I am using a starter box to start it though. 

[Joeloliver]

Progress. I have leaned out the HSN. The car does not cut out anymore..

 

Now wheels are spinning in neutral and changing the idle does not stop them spinning. Also when accelerating the car cuts out. I am determined to get it right. So I avoid going to the RC every shop every week.

[hipwell]

If the car cuts out accelerating this could be a sign of too lean or too rich depending on how it goes out.

If it cuts out on acceleration and there is no smoke then it may be too lean.

If it cuts out on acceleration but it's very boggy, sounds like it's choking and spitting out lots of smoke and oil the it ma still be too rich.

When adjusting your high speed needle do it in 1/8 increments.

[Joeloliver]

Decided to return all needles to factory settings. I'll go and buy some more glow plugs too and try again.

[Joeloliver]

Result, it's now working well apart from a small issue. The car moves forward slowly when idling. But if I decrease the idle the car cuts out. The idle gap looks ok..

Edited March 9, 2015 by Joeloliver

[Sayce97]

Im no expert so dont quote me on this. But you could have a very lean lsn setting causing a high idle. Also have you made sure the throttle trim on the controller is neutral.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RCbutcher]

Videos.... help the radio boys. 

[Joeloliver]

It's all working well now. I think the glow plug was faultly and the needles too rich. The RC shop supposedly had replaced the glowplug along with an aluminium clutch. It appears not.. 

Edited March 19, 2015 by Joeloliver

[Aaron rc]

On 03/03/2015 at 19:53, HYPER-BOY said:

When it is started on the box and ticking over is it a nice constant rev or spluttering, if you put your hand by the pipe exit does it get covered with oil and fuel?

 

Sounds like you're running it far too rich, if you tip it up and fuel comes out.  It is dumping too much fuel into the engine and basically putting out the glow plug - flooding.

 

Take the plug out and put the glow starter on it to make sure it is 'glowing'.

 

Sorry to ask, I am not being rude.. When you say you are changing the idle screw and the gap doesn't change, you sure you're not undoing the screw that allows you to reposition the carb? or (if it has one) a mid range needle?  You need the gap when you look down the carb to be approx 1mm.

 

Once you are back to normal get her started on the box and rev it, if it cuts out then lean it in (HSN) by 1/16, start and rev again.. You should get to a point where it doesn't cut out and it revs nicely.. but with a nice stream of smoke.

 

Failing that slowly lean the LSN and the idle rev's should pick up..

 

Don't lean too much though, we are talking micro turns to get it right.  I have always sorted the HSN first from a carb reset but have had to tweak the LSN to get it running well enough to be able to do this..

 

It is hard to get it right and sometimes I have felt like smashing it up.. But you will get it right!! 

This post is excellent, I also have been and still do become angry when I can't seem to get it to tune, slot of people say they would love N engine that tunes itself but to me that's not fun, the fun with this nitro hobby is getting it right and loving the results when you scramble your buggy around the dirt,

[Lupus solus]

Where are you? Perhaps if you are nearby some one who might know what to do they can help you.