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Losi Trail Trekker Landy Conversion (build thread)


johninderby

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Losi Trail Trekker Landy Conversion

 

Bought a now rare Italeri 1/24 plastic kit of a Safari Land Rover 109 for the lightweight body as I didn't want too much top weight. Started to fit it to the stock Trail Trekker chassis but changed my mind when I came across the laser cut scaler frame rails. The rails will need trimming a bit at the ends for the Landy body. The wheelbase is adjustable and the shocks fit verticaly. Already had the RC4WD tyres and the Gearhead wheels.

 

Just waiting on the Hot Racing shocks and a Losi replacement hardware set to arrive (few days time) to get the build under way.

 

    John

 

TT-Landy-2_zpsek4dju7o.jpg

 

TT-Landy-1_zps5bfvm294.jpg

 

TT-Chassis_zps2vt1o9l3.jpg

 

TT-Shocks_zpsk04iskl6.jpg

Edited by johninderby
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Trail Trekker = Keeper

Losi is a strange brand really. Popular kit like the Traill Trekker and they stop making it.

Have than 1/35 F150 pickup coming from Banggood and looking at the measurements the 1/24 Landy body is exactly the same width and wheelbase. Might be possible to use the 1/35 running gear for scale looking Landy.

John

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Losi Trail Trekker Landy Conversion

 

Bought a now rare Italeri 1/24 plastic kit of a Safari Land Rover 109 for the lightweight body as I didn't want too much top weight. Started to fit it to the stock Trail Trekker chassis but changed my mind when I came across the laser cut scaler frame rails. The rails will need trimming a bit at the ends for the Landy body. The wheelbase is adjustable and the shocks fit verticaly. Already had the RC4WD tyres and the Gearhead wheels.

 

Just waiting on the Hot Racing shocks and a Losi replacement hardware set to arrive (few days time) to get the build under way.

 

    John

 

TT-Landy-2_zpsek4dju7o.jpg

 

TT-Landy-1_zps5bfvm294.jpg

 

TT-Chassis_zps2vt1o9l3.jpg

 

TT-Shocks_zpsk04iskl6.jpg

 

 

 

i found a rare willys jeep 1/24th scale kit, twas the reason i wanted a trail trekker myself. but retards at losi just stopped selling them and now

they can be found going for extremely stupid prices ( not factoring in the shipping and customs hits from usa) 

 

 

i had seen one build where they butchered the donor static kit chassis to hold the internal transfer

and have a base for the shell to run on, inc interior. 

i love the idea of that ladder chassis, but i also loved the idea of using the donor kits chassis pan to. 

 

 

 

will be waiting to see the final outcome , black n white stripes zebra pattern or you going the sand khaki 

 

link to the willys i found  : http://www.amazon.co.uk/WWII-Willys-4-Ton-Jeep-Italeri/dp/B00OC137US/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1425390041&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F24+willys+jeep

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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Trekker is definitely a keeper, no idea why Losing had to go and discontinue it :(

Wish had never sold mine, read threads like this and pine!

if I go this way again will do a scaler and start with a micro crawler. Once you're changing the chassis and body, I think its only the driveshafts, stub axles and links that are different anyway?

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I think that's why Trail Trekkers don't come up for sale very often. Very few Let them go.

The main difference between the micro crawler and the trekker, besides the longer wheelbase, is that the trekker came with all the metal upgrades already installed so they are tougher.

Wheelspin have shipped the hardware set and hopefully the shocks from the US will be here for the weekend. People moan about Wheelspin's shadow stock but they've delivered on time yet again.

John

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those top link holes on the chassis rails.

 

depending on what ones you use john, i have had a vision of a way to hold the shell on without drilling. 

you need to glue a U shaped channel x4 onto inside door runners where those top link holes are.

 

drill out the ends of 4x slim body posts ( mini t - rc18 b/mt/t ), so they will sit level horizon like a 1/10th crawler side mount post clips.

4x small sections of fuel tube. slipped over the ends of the pegs.

 

when you mount shell you pull apart the side walls gentle and slip the body over the posts and into the retaining upside down U channel.

so the channel slides over the peg and fuel tube grommet, it should keep it all nice and tight but no need for clips or body reaming ;) 

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I've had a few ideas that involve no visable body post or such. Thought about side mounted body posts but the body has a floor in it and won't pull out.

Came up with a very simple idea which is to fasten two mini body posts upside down inside the body which will fit down through the two crossmembers and then regular body clips. A couple of bulkheads inside with notches to fit over the frame rails will locate the body in place.

Anyway I'll make a start later on. Been laying floor tiles and I really need a break. It's all the bending and stretching into awkward positions that takes it out of you.

John

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yeah the upside downers sound good to. 

 

maybe see what one could work better. the fit comes from the fuel tube slipping tight into the u channel.

that keeps everything nice and tight 

 

maybe drill a few xtra post hole mounts into rail in more suitable area for mounting. ( front end nose side pannels / rear tail area quater )

four outboard posts front and rear chassis, leave the whole mid center free for interior hacking, rear boot area can be added a couple jerry cans one in rear rear corner holding the

channeling for posts

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you going to cut and shut the motor ? build it up then cut the bottom pan off so it seats under hood :)

 

have seen the micro desert trucks, i was thinking an old ford model A body mod , some slim fronts wide rears

and rat rod it. but same method as yours

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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Unfortunately the hood doesn't open, it's moulded into the main body so no engine.

You mean something like this?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-Monogram-Show-Ford-85-4932/dp/B00643M9I8

John

 

yeah that or either 

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-32-Ford-Window-Coupe/dp/B0024FA8FG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_h_b_cs_2/278-4227693-8154120?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BN2DNA3CHDWE0WWRASV

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-Ford-Model-Rat-Rod/dp/B00643LO2A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_h_b_cs_3/278-4227693-8154120?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BN2DNA3CHDWE0WWRASV

 

i was thinking something 1/34 scale rc and a 1/24 kit body

rc and kit are way off in scale size, 1/18th is more like 1/12th scale in plastic kits

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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Frame

 

The frame has been shortened slightly to fit the Landy body. New holes had to be drilled for the front cross-member but the rear was OK. I had modified the body at the rear for the stock Trail Trekker chassis but had to cut some more away to let the frame fit properly. Some tidying up to do yet. At the front got lucky as the frame rails were just far enough apart to fit over the back of the grille area. At the front will make a slot or channel that the front cross-member will fit into. At the rear a small catch will hold the body down.

 

Pleased with the way the frame fits the Landy body.

 

      John

 

Losi-Landy-Frame-3_zpstj4vwwlv.jpg

 

Losi-Landy-Frame-1_zpsbb6rxm51.jpg

 

Losi-Landy-Frame-2_zpswajsl1v7.jpg

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Chassis

 

Removed the gearbox and axles from the old chassis and fitted them to the new chassis. Set the wheelbase slightly shorter to match the Landy body. Installed the new shocks which do look more like proper ones. :yes:

 

Next will have to short out the battery placement.

 

     John

 

Losi-Landy-2_zpsuscchix4.jpg

 

Losi-Landy-1_zps70ft2od5.jpg

Just noticed in this photo you can see the servo plug hanging down at the top of the front link.

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Chassis adjustments

 

Found the upper links were hitting the frame preventing full wheel travel when one wheel was moved to it's full travel. Solution was as simple as turning the upper links upside down so they didn't come anywhere near the frame. The shocks were also sticky. Although they're air shocks with an internal spring and no oil they do have an O ring in the body and this was what was causing the sticking. Put a drop of shock oil on the shaft and ran it in and out a few times to lubricate the O ring. Shocks are now nice and smooth.

 

      John

 

Losi-Landy-4_zpsumuzaocf.jpg

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