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Battery cut-off voltage


yoodoo

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Cheers Matt.3.3v is the last voltage before it kills the batts but I was wondering what other pilots have theirs set at.

Thanks for the reply.

 

It's 2.7 for the point of 'possibly' causing damage. My cut off is turned off, and I just use a buzzer that is set to 3.0v, that way I have time to land, after a few minutes they settle at 3.2 ish

 

I had a Tricopter that was stuck 40ft up a tree for 2 days. after getting it down the cells were at 1.5 each, charged the pack back up and is fine.

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Naza v2's defaults are really on the cautious side. I use an external buzzer with mine same as I do planes, and I've not seen a resting voltage under 3.7v/cell. Or a load voltage of under 3.5v/cell. Will have to tweak a bit, but 15 mins on 5000 isn't difficult at all. I think the Naza settings can be lowered some  :yes:

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LVC is a lipo alarm for me. 

 

on my naza i have cut off disabled, and here is why i run like this. 

 

my quadcopter cost a few hundred quids , has 4 large blades running round like a massive food blender.

it weights 1.3kg  my battery cost 18 quid. what is a more expensive loss, your bird NOT making it home because some silly dumb

lvc chopped out your flight time to say an 18 quid battery.

 

my lvc on naza is disabled, this means when my buzzer goes off and my timer starts beeping on handset. i know

i need to get the hell home and fast. i know roughly a few mins left in the cell but i could push that battery way beyond its working capacity.

yes i risk it becoming a fire-bird or a freefall bomb bird, but i can over work my cell battery to its max. 

Loosing an 18 quid battery is less loss than loosing a whole bird at a few hundred quid. ( you fly over lake on RTH command, half way across auto land lvc secondary kicks in and the quad becomes a submarine, no lvc that bird will still come home but very poorly and it wont be no soft landing either )

 

lvc kicker is it goes into auto landing, but say you bam out a RTH command and your battery then reaches its limit and the auto lander kicks in.

what do you do then. thats an expensive loss.

but if you shut that lvc off, that brid will fly until they aint no juice left and possible it reaches home to, those few couple mins extra flight can be a win or loose.

2 mins flight at 6m/s thats a fair distance if you wham open the throttle, drop into a 35-45 degree attack angle and nail it home fast thats 18ft per second ( the 6m/s is a naza's default climb rate straight line its gonna go a lot quicker).

 

my naza set with a 3.7v cut off using a 500mm fpv frame ( no fpv gear just bare bone setup system control and a gopro like nose cam) and a 2200mah 3s, i get 4 mins flight, thats to first warning alarm

auto shutdown comes very fast afterwards 2 mins max, with my 5000mah im looking at 5-7 mins flight, but the lvc being killed i can fly until that battery has nothing left at all.

its a large risk but its not a 300 quid lost bird. its a possible fried tailframe and a killed lipo, its not a quadcopter and a 300 quid camera to. 

so yeah lvc is a cost reduction thing, its reduced to being turned off so it reduces the lost bird from a quiffy lvc that dji thinks we must use 24/7. 

 

 

i would rather fry a cheap battery than loose a bird to a carp lvc judgement 

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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DEFAULT P.I.D 

 

gps mounted directly over the center of the module box. (no front or rear bias mounting) 

moudle box mount is exactly space center of where the 4 holes are to mount multiwii boards and standoffs.

 

light and power module front right side of quads center section, its mounted upon a L bracket on my heli mod skid.

allows direct usb contact without messing around and full view of modules lighting status.

 

tail end i carry in a 5000mah 3s zippy compact and run 10 or 11 inch blades to sunnysky original blacks.

not a good ideas as your overpropping the motor (its gotta work a lot harder ) 

to balance out i used a dual heavy 1/10th servo setup and a 90g ( gopro like  camera ) this balances the heavy tail with the fulcrum effect (see-saw).

 

thats my full basic set up until i blew out the 3s 2200mah , so now upgraded to 5000mah (tight but just fits in the tail of the craft)

GPS i had a slight wander nothing a shift in the compass gps head puck. if your bird tends to gps drift right in yaw twist the gps puck to the left about 1 degree.

so the arrow is slightly not front facing but a tiny bit left., if it drift in gps left yaw give the gps puck a little twist right (loosen up the mount points and slide it round a tad fraction) 

 

atti mode could do with a slight adjustment in the barometer it does sometimes bounce on landings little hops then lands.

yaw was fine for me then again a full install i did just tore out multiwii threw in naza. 

 

after that i used team black sheep TBS discovery naza p.i.d , found things more easy to. more floaty and i then went to adjust my curves to my style

less/more stick shift for reaction ( sluggy or snappy)

 

Tweeking yep its something you will do, your adjusting how you want the craft set up. bit like a racing car.

lewis couldnt just jump into say buttons car and drive it to full capacity, its just not set up for his driving style

and the fell he requires back from his input. its the same with your quadcopter. 

 

think of tweeking as the endgame once you find that sweet area where it all falls into place feeling wise for you

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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