Jump to content
  • Join our community

    Sign-up for free and join our friendly community to chat and share all things R/C!

250 Quad Racing/FPV


RCMonkee

Recommended Posts

Ok so after not much talking myself into it me and a mate purchased a couple of 250 Quads for some FPV fun and a bit of racing if our limited flying skills are up to it!

I put the kit together late last night as the box kept looking at me so i made sure it went together ok. Will strip it back down tonight and start the wiring so i can get it nice and tidy between the two lower plates  (unlike the 450 which looks like a ball of wool).

 

IMAG6230_zpsyntpg4rv.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Starting to build my one tonight. Will take pics as it goes together :) 

 

The big decision is, do I fit lots of nice bright LED's to aid in orientation, or leave it with none and fly 'stealthy' for pure FPV? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

67issues,

 

QAV250 clone frame (Carbon version)

4x Emax 1806 motors 2280kv

4x 12a esc's with SimonK firmware

CC3D Flight controller

5030 props

 

And a few green/red leds me thinks :)

 

Once its flying good I'm keen to install my FPV gear into it. Sony CCD camera with 800mw transmitter and a 7" extra bright LCD screen to fly with. Need to buy a hood/mount to clamp the screen to my transmitter above the sticks  :yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

at least 2000kv motors .

5 inch props 

small 250mm frame

small 12-15a esc's 

and a 2s - 3s lipo. 

 

your weight is going to be around 600g 

 

 

low 640kv motors

5 inch props

small'ish 250mm frame

12-15a esc

2s lipo battery only 

 

your weight will be around 400g 

 

 

 

the two quads above look very much alike, the major give away is battery payload. theres a bigger more voltage power system in the first quad.

now racing wise you will put your money on the 400g weight quadcopter. less weight means more quicker and nimble right ......... 

 

in a race side by side the heavy quad will ALWAYS win, its not its weight it is the thrust to power. it produces huge thrust.

a 200m vertical drag race. the big quad has more volts, this means less rpm needed for the same amount of thrust.

also the current draw becomes less to more voltage = less current pulled

 

lets say, at full throttle the big quad produces with a 3s lipo 280g of thrust all 4 motors each giving 280g = 1.120g thrust 

so all in we get over 1kg of thrust produced , and the quad weighs 600 grams so we deduct the quads all up wieght from thrust max,

that means there is around 520g of thrust to play with 

 

the other quad is lighter but it has a lower voltage and low rpm motors, so lets have a look why and see what it measures up with on thrust to power

well our motors produce only 140g thrust at 7.4v so lets multiply that by four and we get 560g, and we have 400 grams weight so lets deduct and see what happens.

hmmm we have 160g of thrust to play with thats a huge disadvantage against  the quad with 500g to play with. 

 

520g V 160g so we know that first quad produces nearly three times the thrust than that lighter machine. more thrust = more speed. so that

also means that first quad is going to be very quick and punchy. but we can make that second quad a bit better, we can add a 3s battery ( remember more volts means less rpm = less current = more thrust)

so instead of only getting a max 140g thrust with 7.4v we may get boosted upto producing 220g for each motor, ( now things sound a bit better dont they  ) its still a little slower but a good pilot will use that softness

of flight to an advantage. he will not drift as much as the more speedy quad and his control is less twitchy and agressive than the more zippy quad. now it comes to both pilot skill and aircraft skill. 

one mess up and the lighter quad wins and all from a step up in voltage. 

 

 

think of your motor as the pinion , the prop as your spur , and your gearing is the batterys.

those cheap hubsans  you notice when they start to hover the throttle is nearly mid center half.

well if we added 7.4v battery the throttle would only need to be opened a 1/4 before the quad started to hover.

because we have more volts we have more rpm and that means we have more thrust. 

smaller blades like 5 inch need to be spun at fast revolutions we call them sports props or electroprops (electric props for leccy motors )

they look more like a knife blade than a paddle, so they need to spin fast to produce the best lift. ( this gives your quad that zingy sound than the fluttery sound from a camera quad ).

 

 

So all this and your now thinking well whats the point, it sounds expensive. well not really is a little cheaper motor and esc wise and props.

same battery and controller same rx etc etc. the point is FPV racing is NOT DONE WITH ELECTRONIC AI.

that fancy dji controller . stick it in manual mode, no gps no barometer no accelromerters no gyros.

just all you and the sticks. thats what fpv your in control not the machine. you overcook the stick the quad will NOT save you , but the pilot view to some comes natural

and you will instictly start to counter the overcook. 

Points is You must be ABLE TO FLY , not with electronic help but MUST BE ABLE TO FLY MANUAL. naza does not see a tree naza does not know the fence is x amount high

naza is blind as a bat. but in fpv your the input and the craft is the output. most gear does not overcook beyond 35 degrees in bank roll or pitch. in fpv its switched off

you now have full 90 degree bank roll or pitch. 

 

owning a quad is the start, weaning yourself from automation is the next. a 10 min try to fly in manual, just learning to hover in one spot.

then basic figure eights, all the stuff you learnt with those mini hubsans and wltoys generics but now its all you no electronics. your learning to fly for real now.

that leads to FPV and proximity flying with cameras and goggles

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heres a list of whats on my racer (i use the term loosely !!! i dont race i wander !!)

 

 

Frame can be had at many places such as bangood just look up 250 quad frame ( i wont put a link up as its hit and miss getting real carbon fiber frames and i dont whant anyone saying the link i put up got them a non CF Frame :P )

esc         :http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4Pcs-Simonk-RC-Firmware-10AMP-10A-Brushless-ESC-w-3A-5V-BEC-For-RC-Multicopter-Qudcopter/2030558890.html

power distribution board : http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Power-Battery-ESC-Connection-Board-Distribution-For-RC-Multirotor-Quadcopter-Helicopter-Aircraft-Part-Free-Shipping/1925212586.html

motors dys 1806: http://www.banggood.com/DYS-BE1806-2300KV-Brushless-Motor-2-3S-For-Mini-Multicopters-p-933192.html

fpv cam : http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FPV-700TVL-Sony-Super-HAD-II-CCD-WDR-Board-Camera-OSD-Control-Panel-3-6mm-lens/1782283823.html

video tx and rx :http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100-original-Boscam-5-8Ghz-200mW-8-Channel-FPV-Audio-Video-Transmitter-Receiver-TS351-RC305-For/932779312.html

Edited by baorevo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shame your not down essex way, Me and a friend are loving the mini quads so much so my disco might be up for sale soon. We are both runing completely different setups  i'm runing a TBS Gemini on 4S with DomHD and a taranis, Hes using a Flip250 with 2300kv cobra and 4s nano techs on a homemade 8" screen built into a welders mask and futaba 35mhz radio.

 

Both flying around stupidly fast just waiting for the spring to kick in

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not really documented the build but will add a couple of things to look out for when i got more time (at work).

Given it a few good runs over the weekend and im loving it. Tried it with my FPV gear but it suddenly packed up, not sure why? :(

This was the first time out with it and stock setting with openpilot.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its all the same as RTSbasic listed. 
 

QAV250 clone frame (Carbon version)

4x Emax 1806 motors 2280kv

4x 12a esc's with SimonK firmware

CC3D Flight controller

5030 props

 

Thats with a 2200kv 3s lipo and a gopro on. It also went fine with another 1000kv lipo and TX for the FPV.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so not having built one from the start before i checked out a few build videos on youtube and forums so i had a basic idea of what i was doing.

Did away with the power distribution board as it takes up some space and wanted to mount most of the wiring between the two bottom frame plates. Unfortunately the esc's wouldnt fit without using stand off's so had to keep them on the arms but might add them at a later date.
 

The thing that stumped me was the wiring for the CC3D board. The coloured wiring i had did not match any on the build videos i had looked at. Luckily i found this thread at it appears the 'cheaper' versions are not too fussy on how they build the cables and they are different colours from the original. Some even have the + as a black cable and the negative a red cable! Dont go by the colours, go by the position!

Check this before plugging anything in....
http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=9520

 

http://postimg.org/image/tvzfzqpir/

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpu0nshqjI0

 

 

Edit:

Added some lights too

IMAG6284_zpsa2kjiqil.jpg

 

IMAG6276_zpsidrlzg2u.jpg

 

Edited by RCMonkee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...