TurboFurball Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Figured I might as well file this in one place This is my starting point: a second hand CC01 chassis thats had lots of alloy bits thrown at it, but there's a couple of rusty bits, some rounded out bolts, and loads of slop in everything mechanical. Also, it's had no modifications done to the chassis itself ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 First change - got rid the brick at the front, used a bit of it epoxied back on to keep the front together and vaguely watertight Next on the list will be moving the 4-link locations up by a bit (all four to keep the geometry) so the lower ones don't get caught on every little thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Get yourself a junfac skid plate, makes the bottom all smooth and nothing gets hung up then.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 I was looking at those (amongst other things!), in due course I'll have a bash at making one myself - I want to use this as a learning experience in making parts myself I'll probably try and make a single piece that goes from the front bumper, under the front diff, and through to the start of the links ... and then try experimenting with teflon coating, lol ... the only downside to that is extra weight. Hmm. For the 4-link I found the first 10 mins of THIS VIDEO to be very informative, since the aim is to be able to do class 1 crawling I'll move to a heavily triangulated setup, which saves cutting the original bottom link points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Surprising that with all the alloy bits added the original steering wasn't changed as well. That's usually the first change. Will be getting round to doing the long rear shock mod to my Unimog tomorrow. Although mine is more scaler than crawler the rear suspension needs more travel/articulation. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Yeah, the steering will have to stay that way for a while now, too ... it's on the list, just quite a way down. The slop is amazing, but not helped by the fact that nothings been shimmed at all, so all that fancy looking ally is well wobbly. Class 1 is for scalers really, but it would be nice to be in the same ballpark as the SCX10s etc so I'll take any improvement I can find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Yeah class 1 is getting a little more competitive now..... I would enjoy the truck as you go mate, whether or not your aiming to mix it up with scx10's though is another thing..... I have over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Well, I could have got an SCX10 for similar money, or an Ascender, or a Sawback ... but then I'd just build it and go, which would be boring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 What body do you plan on using using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 I have a lovely Unimog shell ... though I hope to have made it non-typical in time for the nationals, if all goes to plan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Good choice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Well, I got the back axle rebuilt. Added washers to the ends of the driveshafts, and massively shimmed the diff to be as snug as possible with the pinion I've also started on the link relocation - should be able to finish that off tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Well, after copious breaks and interruptions, the back end is finally together! They only just peek through the chassis, but at full compression everything squashes up to about 2mm shy of hitting the chassis, so I figure it'll be ok. The back end of the chassis does twist a bit too, but I figure under actual use the chances of actually getting that much strain on it are minimal ... there's also copious flex Here's where the links are now located To-do list for the weekend: lengthen propshaft by 25mm, rebuild front end (fixing the slop, new top of shock mounts, new shocks, *not* fixing the steering until after pay day), make a battery tray, sort out body mounts in new places (the whole body is moving back a bit) and then just throw a set of electrics at it - simple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 The shocks poke through about the same as when I did the shocks on the Ford F100. After having done the Unimog with 95mm shocks there's not much of an advantage over the 85mm. Tamiya do longer driveshafts that will fit but unfortunately they seem to go for about 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Yeah,having it together I can see that anything longer wouldn't really help! (Thanks for your advice on the shock BTW!) I figure just extending it isn't going to be too tricky, however I've called in a favour at work and our resident machinist is going to sort it for me :-)(Extending the prop, that is) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Finally got on with the battery tray, I did have plans of putting it up front between the inner wings but couldn't quite engineer out how to hold the back of the battery in a satisfactory manner given the very silly placement of the steering linkage & servo ... on the plus side, this does keep the battery up and out of the way of most water (I'll be covering up the original battery opening on the side) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 1" longer proper shaft, courtesy of the lovely machinist at work I've also ordered a servo and alloy steering linkage since it was payday yesterday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 *prop, even. I'm thinking I might need to streamline the join slightly as it could get snagged on things ... or I could get on with knocking together a skid plate that bows around the prop. Hmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Front body mounts done properly with square chocks etc (they look like they bow out in the photo, but that's caused by my phone's lens) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Also put much lighter oil in the front shocks ... the 5w might be a bit on the light side of ideal, but it drop tests ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 I'm still fighting some kind of cold, but still managed to get the back body mounts done and the servo showed up in the post so I popped that in and went for a spin around the living room with the electrics just sat on top The to-do list (in no particular order): Proper mounting setup for the electrics Test drive in the woods Fancy winch-compatible front bumper Rear towing point Tie down strips to hold stuff on the back Get a different ESC with a drag brake Make scale bungee chords Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Finally some real progress! I got frustrated by the rubbish quality control of the alloy steering upgrade components, did a bit of digging online and it appears that I'm not the only one to have got one thats all out of whack ... where the shaft that goes through the chassis keys onto the arm at the bottom there was enough play that after a 5 minute drive it had mashed up ... and one of the ball joints snapped. To be fair, had I been more careful when fitting I could have picked up on it and remedied it before it self-destructed. I might re-visit it by welding them together at work, but thats something to come back to in the future ... the stock system is back on and although it flexes loads, it's useable I also fitted a Maverick ESC, since the Ansmann one that came with it didn't have a drag brake or Lipo cut-off. Which means that it's now ready for a proper outdoor test drive at the weekend! The extended wheelbase does may it a little funny looking (1" longer, the body is mounted so it's half used at the front and half at the back), but it'll definitely help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 (edited) To-do list for the LSTR comp on the 29th - ally front bumper with towing point, rear tow point, luggage rack on the back for the waffle boards and tow rope. Test driving might show something up, too, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it! Edited March 12, 2015 by TurboFurball Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 The steering kit does work fine if the bottom of the shaft is modded slightly. The flat on the shaft needs a bit of filing to lengthen the flat so the arm can fit down properly. I also fitted longer bolts tothe shaft. Shouldn't have to mod the kit in the first place I know. Instructions would help a lot as well. Fitted an RC4WD SCX10 bumper to the back of mine with a couple of shackles. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboFurball Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Yeah, I'll make it work eventually, and it really would have helped to have instructions! Now the keys mashed I think just welding them together is the easiest solution (since I have access to ally welding gear) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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