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Furball's CC01 Build


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Figured I might as well file this in one place :neko:

 

This is my starting point: a second hand CC01 chassis thats had lots of alloy bits thrown at it, but there's a couple of rusty bits, some rounded out bolts, and loads of slop in everything mechanical.  Also, it's had no modifications done to the chassis itself ...

 

H3EZFF9.jpg

 

0CSVqyJ.jpg

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First change - got rid the brick at the front, used a bit of it epoxied back on to keep the front together and vaguely watertight

 

WGo4xdf.jpg

 

Next on the list will be moving the 4-link locations up by a bit (all four to keep the geometry) so the lower ones don't get caught on every little thing

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I was looking at those (amongst other things!), in due course I'll have a bash at making one myself - I want to use this as a learning experience in making parts myself :sly:  I'll probably try and make a single piece that goes from the front bumper, under the front diff, and through to the start of the links ... and then try experimenting with teflon coating, lol ... the only downside to that is extra weight.  Hmm.

 

For the 4-link I found the first 10 mins of THIS VIDEO to be very informative, since the aim is to be able to do class 1 crawling I'll move to a heavily triangulated setup, which saves cutting the original bottom link points.

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Yeah, the steering will have to stay that way for a while now, too ... it's on the list, just quite a way down.  The slop is amazing, but not helped by the fact that nothings been shimmed at all, so all that fancy looking ally is well wobbly.

 

Class 1 is for scalers really, but it would be nice to be in the same ballpark as the SCX10s etc so I'll take any improvement I can find

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Well, after copious breaks and interruptions, the back end is finally together!

 

QVwwegx.jpg

 

They only just peek through the chassis, but at full compression everything squashes up to about 2mm shy of hitting the chassis, so I figure it'll be ok.

 

The back end of the chassis does twist a bit too, but I figure under actual use the chances of actually getting that much strain on it are minimal ... there's also copious flex :thumbsup:

 

Here's where the links are now located

 

wZaDocE.jpg

 

To-do list for the weekend: lengthen propshaft by 25mm, rebuild front end (fixing the slop, new top of shock mounts, new shocks, *not* fixing the steering until after pay day), make a battery tray, sort out body mounts in new places (the whole body is moving back a bit) and then just throw a set of electrics at it - simple :sweatdrop:

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Yeah,having it together I can see that anything longer wouldn't really help! (Thanks for your advice on the shock BTW!)

I figure just extending it isn't going to be too tricky, however I've called in a favour at work and our resident machinist is going to sort it for me :-)

(Extending the prop, that is)

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Finally got on with the battery tray, I did have plans of putting it up front between the inner wings but couldn't quite engineer out how to hold the back of the battery in a satisfactory manner given the very silly placement of the steering linkage & servo ... on the plus side, this does keep the battery up and out of the way of most water (I'll be covering up the original battery opening on the side)

 

UWUJk6I.jpg

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I'm still fighting some kind of cold, but still managed to get the back body mounts done and the servo showed up in the post so I popped that in and went for a spin around the living room with the electrics just sat on top :hahadance:

 

BQWTX7k.jpg

 

The to-do list (in no particular order):

Proper mounting setup for the electrics

Test drive in the woods
Fancy winch-compatible front bumper

Rear towing point

Tie down strips to hold stuff on the back

Get a different ESC with a drag brake

Make scale bungee chords

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally some real progress!

I got frustrated by the rubbish quality control of the alloy steering upgrade components, did a bit of digging online and it appears that I'm not the only one to have got one thats all out of whack ... where the shaft that goes through the chassis keys onto the arm at the bottom there was enough play that after a 5 minute drive it had mashed up ... and one of the ball joints snapped.

 

To be fair, had I been more careful when fitting I could have picked up on it and remedied it before it self-destructed.  I might re-visit it by welding them together at work, but thats something to come back to in the future ... the stock system is back on and although it flexes loads, it's useable :)

 

I also fitted a Maverick ESC, since the Ansmann one that came with it didn't have a drag brake or Lipo cut-off.  Which means that it's now ready for a proper outdoor test drive at the weekend!

 

AUNR55r.jpg

 

RXe5ugO.jpg

 

The extended wheelbase does may it a little funny looking (1" longer, the body is mounted so it's half used at the front and half at the back), but it'll definitely help!

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To-do list for the LSTR comp on the 29th - ally front bumper with towing point, rear tow point, luggage rack on the back for the waffle boards and tow rope.

 

Test driving might show something up, too, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it!

Edited by TurboFurball
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The steering kit does work fine if the bottom of the shaft is modded slightly. The flat on the shaft needs a bit of filing to lengthen the flat so the arm can fit down properly. I also fitted longer bolts tothe shaft. Shouldn't have to mod the kit in the first place I know. Instructions would help a lot as well.

Fitted an RC4WD SCX10 bumper to the back of mine with a couple of shackles.

John

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