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newbie hyper 7 help


kevden45

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Hello I have had electric cars in the past but i'm new to nitro and have just bought a hobao hyper 7 off ebay, I have just managed to start it with much mucking around to get it away but when it's running at idle the car isnt stationary and is moving forward and the back wheels are moving, I have tried altering the trim on the controller but no no avail how can I fix this? Also i'm not sure if the servo's are going or something but when I turn on the batter and the remote the front servo is going mental and shaking around which is making the front wheels shake as well if you know what I mean also when it does this the steering is prety laggy when trying to turn. I hope someone can give me some pointers as to whats going wrong here cheers. 

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what ebay seller did you get it from? sounds like the cars been used and abused

 

.on the carb should either be 3 or 4 needles, the one nearest the heat sink should be idle, if you screw that one anti clockwise it should decrease your idle there by stopping your rolling problem on the ground

 

it should be the remote always goes on first then the car, secondly the steering servo might have got water in it somehow if its goin wonky, for the sluggish one it could be just that its a sluggish servo or its underpowered, if you want quicker id upgrade it.

 

welcome to nitro by the way :)

Edited by jordanp
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Phew...some problems...

 

If the engine revs are too high then the clutch will engage...if the clutch is engaged then it will drive the wheels..

 

The engine revs can be too high due to the throttle being open too far or the fuel mixture being too lean...

 

The wheels can also be turning if there is a problem with the clutch and the engine revs and mixture are fine...

 

Servos jittering can be a fault with the servo/receiver/battery level/interference/etc.

 

First try to locate the servo problem...without the engine running check the steering and throttle...turn the Tx and Rx on and steer/throttle/brake...swap the leads on the Rx (so steering is now brake and...)...if the jittering is now on the throttle servo then the fault is receiver or transmitter...always have good batterys...never start the engine if the radio system is not working correctly.

Edited by Anthoop
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Okay thanks guys, Yeah I suspect it has been bashed and used quite a bit from the look of it and the guy in the listing had said it was in full working order. Thanks for the advice guys i'll tr adjusting the idle speed needle tomorrow and I think you;s are right about the servo being knackered so I've ordered a savox one and a new transmitter to see if that fixes the problem. I give it a bit of a run tonight and the steering was all over the place also I noticed it didnt have to much top speed or accelleration when you put it on full throttle could that be with is over idling in the first place and the problem maybe solved when I adjust the idle needle? God Nitro's are a head bang to get used to! 

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Try this:

 

1. Take the horn off and be sure to set the trim to neutral. The throttle trim is not used to set idle. Instead it's use is to fine-tune the linkage.. 

 

2.  Remove the air filter,

 

3. Put the horn back on.When putting the horn back on position it so it's parallel, and ensure the carb is pushed in all the way.

 

4. Take a paper clip and put it in the carb. Turn the idle stop screw CCW until it touches the paper clip (you are setting your idle gap here ~1mm). Turn electronics on and apply brakes. Make sure that the carb does not fully close AND when you release brake that the carb does not open more than what you set it via the paper clip.If either of those happen you need to adjust your linkage which can be tricky but we can help.Also, apply full throttle and make sure the carb opens all the way (later you can set your travel so it only opens it that far and doesn't put load on the servo).

 

5. Put air filter back on.

 

6. Start the car again.If it moves, turn the idle screw it CCW until it stops moving. If if the vehicle won't start turn it CW about 1/4 turn.Note that 1mm is MORE than enough to start the engine). So don't open it more than 1.5mm as something else is preventing it from starting.

 

The idle gap you just set is only for initial tuning....as you tune you'll eventually lay it down. I'll post up how I tune my engines in a separate thread for you, but for now just get it stable.

 

If you've applied above and the vehicle is still moving, it could possibly be the clutch, but unlikely. Just keep a great attitude, it's a learning curve for sure but it will be worth it. Welcome to the world of nitro! ;-)

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Thanks nitro nerd, some of what you said I understand but when you say place a paper clip in the carb what do you mean by this? do you take the rubber off the carb? or is the paper clip placed on this sorry if this seems like a stupid question, also when I ran it last night it was moving forward by much just a little bit so I'll try adjusting the idle speed down a tiny bit that may help hopefully before trying what you said nitro nerd thanks for the help with this.

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Thanks nitro nerd, some of what you said I understand but when you say place a paper clip in the carb what do you mean by this? do you take the rubber off the carb? or is the paper clip placed on this sorry if this seems like a stupid question, also when I ran it last night it was moving forward by much just a little bit so I'll try adjusting the idle speed down a tiny bit that may help hopefully before trying what you said nitro nerd thanks for the help with this.

The paper clip is used to measure the 1mm gap..providing the paperclip is 1mm thick.

 

Remove air filter from the carb....and look down the carb. neck....open/close the throttle...when you close the throttle there is a small gap.....this is where you hold the paperclip and adjust the idle screw...then the idle gap is 1mm.

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As Anothoop stated (thanks, Anthoop for better explaining it) using the paper clip is just a guide. It's not necessary. When you do put on the new throttle servo, I would suggest removing the air filter and checking the carb is opening and closing property...just in case. Please do keep us updated...you have good support so just keep patient as you have and you'll be rocking in no time.

 

If all else fails it would make a good brushless conversion :whistling:

 

Blasphemy! ;-)

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Okay guys sorry of the late reply I took it out for a run tonight for the first time properly, I adjusted the idle speed so that it didnt run away took a while to start it but I think that was more the temperature outside (-1). Once I got it started though it was very boggy and kept cutting out while standing still, also when it was running there was no high end speed or accelartion it just bogged and spluttered if I dipped the throttle. Tried making a few adjustments like open the HSN to richen and that made accelaration and top speed better but it was still quiet not right funny gargle noise while running. Would I be better going back to factory settings and tuning it again for winter use? Also stupidly last week I adjusted the wrong needle and accidently turned the Supply fuel nozzle (SFN) that it says never to touch! The last time I saw a nitro it didnt have this extra screw so I suppose it's easly mistaken whats the factory setting for this screw is it flush with the housing? . I appreciate any help with these issues I'm having.

Edited by kevden45
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Okay guys sorry of the late reply I took it out for a run tonight for the first time properly, I adjusted the idle speed so that it didnt run away took a while to start it but I think that was more the temperature outside (-1). Once I got it started though it was very boggy and kept cutting out while standing still, also when it was running there was no high end speed or accelartion it just bogged and spluttered if I dipped the throttle. Tried making a few adjustments like open the HSN to richen and that made accelaration and top speed better but it was still quiet not right funny gargle noise while running. Would I be better going back to factory settings and tuning it again for winter use? Also stupidly last week I adjusted the wrong needle and accidently turned the Supply fuel nozzle (SFN) that it says never to touch! The last time I saw a nitro it didnt have this extra screw so I suppose it's easly mistaken whats the factory setting for this screw is it flush with the housing? . I appreciate any help with these issues I'm having.

Yes.......I believe it needs to be flush

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