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Markswebpages's Traxxas Summit


Markswebpages

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Introducing my new (to me, but already on in it third owner since September) Traxxas Summit.

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It's bloody massive, the previous owner has upgraded some of the suspension and I also have a brushless conversion that he never got round to fitting.

Can't wait to get out and use this, any tips or advice welcome.

Edited by Markswebpages
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Keep it brushed ;) Brushless will wear out drive shafts quicker and put more strain on the whole drive line overall.

The dewalt motor conversion (from Kershaw Designs) is a good upgrade, far more torque than stock and a much more reliable motor than the stock Titan.

Don't ramp it, not something they're good at.

Do drive it at anything log/rock/mud based and enjoy the way it covers rough terrain effortlessly :) Make for good camera cars too!

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Yeah that's kinda what I'm hoping for. I wanted something I could take in a woodland walk and it could drive along with us.

I think looking at the bent spare suspension pushrods and the missing rear alloy wishbones someone has learned the jumping lesson the hard way.

Water and bearings never mix well, but I can imagine it would get a bit expensive wit this unlike the Slash which has about 16 bearings in total.

I just wanted something mud and water resistant that would go anywhere but with a bit more presents than a crawler.

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Hub bearings are the most susceptible, and not silly money to replace. There are plenty inside the two speed, which, if subjected to excessive moisture can fail, bind themselves to internal shafts etc - which becomes costly.

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No not yet still suffering from a horrible headache that seems to not want to go away :(

I thought it might make a good camera car, I might even see if I can borrow mates FPV kit just out of curiosity.

I've driven it around on the flat roof outside of our flat, but I want to wait until I have enough time and enthusiasm to clean it before I get it muddy.

Plan is to amongst other things use it to take on woodland walks with our god son.

Very happy with it though, it's got real presents and I can see already not much is going to stop it. I'd like to find a way to seal the tyres though, the beadlocks look useless as they're just screwed into the plastic rims.

Edited by Markswebpages
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Small update,

Took it round to show a mate and while we where looking we noticed the front pushrods where binding on the top wishbones.

So when I got back I took another look then looked at the original plastic ones and soon realised they where the wrong way round. Checked the exploded diagram just in case, but sure enough they where.

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Probably obvious to those of you familiar with these, but as soon as I figured it out I could see it was wrong. Why people don't think when doing stuff like this I have no idea.

Anyway I thought I'd swap them over, but even that turned out not to be quite as straightforward as i'd hoped as both pivot bars where bent.

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Luckily there where spares in the assortment of bits I got with it. So after a short while it was all back together.

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Now I have some questions if anyone can help.

I've guessing the bent pins are from the fact there is no give in the alloy arms, I have the original plastic ones. Would you swap back to original then upgrade to maybe RPM when they break? Hopefully this would stop the pins bending and stop it breaking the gearbox casing instead.

It has alloy uprights (hub carriers) when when I screwed the cup back in to the ball I wasn't sure how tight this should be, assuming the original plastic ones are the same how tight should they be?

The last question isn't related to the suspension, if you where going to mount a go pro hero on one of these how and where would you mount it?

Thanks in advance for the help and positive comments so far :)

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The tyres are glued, they're fake beadlocks. Just put insulation tape over the holes inside the rims, then check that the tyres are glued all round.

Thanks,

I'll take a look and see, I know part of the reason they're so balloony is so they grip but toy mind they're too soft and once air is forced out it takes a while to settle back up again. Should they have been glued on both sides originally?

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Yes, glued all round on both sides.

Ally arms aren't good, plastic is better. However, RPM can't be used because of the extra droop on the Summit, unless they've released Summit specific arms? I've not checked in a while.

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They haven't released any Summit specific ones, so the stockers will have to do ;)

Re the pivot balls, a case of tighten and check until the hubs move up and down freely, with no resistance/excessive fore and aft play in the hubs. You'll know if they are too tight; I tend to slightly over tighten, then back off little by little until they feel right. Periodically check 'em as there is a lot of rotating mass on there ;)

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"http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/front-a-arms/summit-revo-e-revo-front-left-a-arms-blue/"]http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/front-a-arms/summit-revo-e-revo-front-left-a-arms-blue/

Are these not any good then, I don't know  much about the Summit yet so I dare say I could be missing something.

If not the original ones are cheap enough, I think I'll put them back on and order originals.

So I'll also get the wheels off and take a look, would it be a good idea to tape the insert or the inside of the tyres or do you think I'll lose the softness and grip of the tyres if I go too mad?

Edited by Markswebpages
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My original comment was based on the same 'understanding' as yourself, Tug...the pillow balls pulled out of the arms with regularity, iirc.

Cannot see RPM saying their arms aren't suitable for the recomnded vehicle... Stock arms are tough enough, IMO....or maybe I haven't driven mine hard enough yet ;)

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I know summit tires are only rated for 40mph or something or they'll blow out i wanted a set for my revo once and soon back away.

 

I've sold my traxxas cvds tho and plan to use summit shafts when i rebuild i perfer the big chunky look or stock axles now over skinny cvds.

 

Plus it'll be getting a lrp28 engine as i didnt want to stress the traxxas cvds and finally i want rpm arms

 I read rpm arms flex further than the cvds and that can cause trouble.

 

I want to rebuild my revo into a lightweight minimalistic heavy duty jumping basher. mayb fit losi lst diffs and cvds one day too. 

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This evening this happened, back to standard :)

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So I just need to find the time to use it now.

Can't figure out if you can or can't get standard RPM front arms so I'll probably get a spare standard set.

Would be nice to get some different proper beadlocks and tyres, but overall very happy with it!

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