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Finished my Kershaw T-Revo Truggy. What do you think?


ninjagaiden

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Folks

 

Finally got some wrenching time since collecting parts for my T-revo truggy conversion when I was in the US. Here she is...

 

P1010127.JPG

 

So I stripped down my e-slayer conversion and put the e-revo arms back on, swapped the drive shafts to the 5451r optidrive ones, and then swapped out the plastic chassis for a Kershaw Designs v3.1 LCG aluminium chassis.

 

P1010128.JPG

 

Wheels are from a trophy truggy. Body is the Proline Bulldog for a HB-D8T. Had to do some fiddling but it fits pretty well.

 

P1010129.JPG

 

Reckon I have a pretty unique truggy now.

 

P1010130.JPG

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Sure thing. Finished up late last night and wanted to share. I'll get some more pics up this evening.

 

I've dealth with 3 custom manufacturers of aluminium parts, Alza Racing, 7075RC and Kershaw Designs.THe KD stuff is nowhere near as well finished as the other two, and the grade of aluminium may not be the same (7075AL)

 

The kit has a Heath Robinson feel to it with exposed screw threads, mixture of hex and regular hardware, and lots of little nyloc nuts. The instructions aren;t great either. I watched Jatlag222's video on youtube to help me out, and decided to build the whole chassis up first to check I had everything. Also I was missing a few plastic spacers for the servo mounts but managed to make some from stuff in my RC toolbox. However it did go together perfectly in terms of alignment with the original front and rear ends and tranny. You have to unscrew one of the bolts to get the motor mount cam on and off but that's no big deal.

 

Also I ordered the steel center dog bone and cups and they are very nicely put together.

 

It's easier to work on the chassis with the exposed driveline and easier to visually inspect.

 

Sadly no driving until a new bottle of threadlock arrives as I have lots of metal on metal drive connections with the centre dog bones and optidrive upgrades. Must have not tightened the lid last time I used it. Doh!

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OK. Here are some more pics. For scale, Minecraft Steve is 7cm tall.

 

Fitting of front end assembly

P1010131.JPG

 

 

Side profile of twin plate chassis, and battery straps

P1010132.JPG

 

L servo mount. Looks like it will take larger servos. Plastic spacers fitted underneath plate ensure servos have corect standoff from upper deck.

P1010133.JPG

 

ESC hold down fits just like stock chassis. There are also holes for an HW150 ESC.

P1010134.JPG

 

Rear assembly the diff is keyed in nicely onto upper chassis plate

P1010135.JPG

 

RX box mounts like stock position. Had to find longer mounting screws than those in the kit.

P1010136.JPG

 

Nyloc nut in middle of picture has to be removed to get motor on and off.

P1010137.JPG

 

Lower plate is thinner than the upper deck. Note also the extra aluminium braces under the upper plate - on V3.1 chassis they run all the way along from front to back.

P1010138.JPG

 

R servo mount has larger aperture and extra holes- not sure if this is for single servo conversion

P1010139.JPG

 

Bottom plate. Some of the holes are not used in the 3.1 chassis.

P1010141.JPG

 

Centre dog bone conversion and cup

P1010142.JPG

 

Pins to stop battery slipping laterally

P1010143.JPG

 

I read an article on fitting Proline Bulldog shell to an e-revo. The lexan is super thick! My shell sits further back on the chassis, so bodypost flanges had to be trimmed to let the shell sit flat.

P1010144.JPG

 

Rear bodypost fitting. I'll tidy that up with a file before painting.

P1010145.JPG

 

Total build time including shell fitting was about 6 hours.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lid painted and stickered up Ninjagaiden stylie.

 

Di-Noc Carbon fibre wrap  to keep the bottom plate fresh.

 

Metal on metal screws threadlocked.

 

Just need some better weather for a maiden run...

 

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Edited by ninjagaiden
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It's pretty easy. I put masking tape on the bit that is going to be solid orange, and use a piece of paper over the bottom of the shell, standing off the surface to be painted. I spray perpendicular to the paper, gold colour first, and then direct a bit of the spray under the paper. Once it has dried I take the paper off and the masking tape. Then I spray the second (orange) colour.

 

Some people cut a zig zag edge on the paper in order to give a better feather effect.

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