drift kit advice

[aidenb]

hello all

 

im looking in to building my first drift car i would like a kit so i can build it.

 

i have been looking at the tamiya tt02 and the schumacher Mi1v2 what do people think of these cars and can anyone tell me a better car to use.

 

my price range for the chassis ONLY is no more than

[kiza1208]

Get the tt02 you can use it for drifting and racing with same set up and is easy to upgrade. TT02D chassis is

[aidenb]

if i get tt02d what would you say upgrade (if anyfin) and what mods to make the car better (if any)

 

and was thinking going brushless can i go brushless with this kit out the box

or would i need some upgrades to take the stress

[kiza1208]

I've upgraded the steering and prop as the are rubbish plastic so you gotta upgrade them before getting a fast servo and brushless system but other Tha that its good to go. Stand tyres are abit rubbish

[aidenb]

ok what turn motor (brushless) would be good iv been looking at 6.5t motor

 

and can you post a link to steering please

[Glenyboy]

Asiatees is good for hop ups

[kiza1208]

Asia tees reliable, quick delivery and cheap

[danb1974]

For drift, if you want brushless, around 10.5T sensored

[Tamiyacowboy]

The question you need to ask yourself is this. 

 

Full time drift, or just now and then drift. 

 

if you really want to go into drift maybe drift race, you need to stop and not even bother with the two choices you mentioned.

you need to look at a dedicated drift chassis, one designed and built for extra turning circle and drive ratio outputs adjustments.

let alone the usual , droop - camber - toe - ackerman etc etc you will get from a race chassis. 

 

if its just now and again drift something like a tt02 or even a cheap race chassis will help you on the way.

[aidenb]

Thankyou i woild like to go to tracks if i can find any by me so Will a MS01D be a good start then

[b_hawk111]

Definitly! You only need another

[aidenb]

Im thinking of the MST MS01D 10.5T brushless RTR it will cost me

[aidenb]

If i drift on car parks footpaths and drive ways whats tires are good to use dont have to be the same all round what i mean by that is i no some ppl run diff tire on the rear than what the do on the front

[b_hawk111]

Ah right by getting it from abroad, the a is just the chassis only with no electrics, rtr has everything you need!

Out doors we use mst ga26 harders all round, doesn't make a difference back to front as they will wear flat anyway

[Tamiyacowboy]

heres the very cheap way. 

 

when i first started drift we did not have D -chassis , 1.5 ratio modding etc etc,

drift tyres if you asked for a set of these people looked at you thinking you was mad. 

 

i started out drift with a Yokohama race chassis an MR-C ( custom), after some adjustment i had it sitting lovely. 

Motor wise i went with a very cheap race 27t stock motor. and a i ran a HEAVY nihm-nicad battery. 

 

so down to the boots, at first we drifters had to come up with something slippy, so we cut up plastic waste water pipes,

i looked a right idiot walking round the local shops with an rc wheel rim asking for a pipe to fit over it. but i found one.

now the smart kid came alive, i shaved down some of the edging on the 4 plastic rings i had cut from the pipe.

Giving the edge a of the rim a camber so it did not catch.
i then slid these rings over my rc cars wheel rims (removing rubber tyres beforehand)

 

Now i was set, i spent ages hooning around learning to skid, bust up the body shell a fair bit and put the battery through living hell.

but after a month or so i had drift nailed, i could catch the cars tail hold it and power in and out on the throttle , small steering tweeks

and the car would flow into corners and drift out of them. those plastic drift rings i made cost me around 16p each. 

 

a month or so along the line i purchased the yokohama drift rings and rim set. upgraded to a honda accord shell and sprayed it pure white.

at the same time i took a chevy silvarado truck body and slammed it down hard, black mat paint on the lower and the upper the pure white left over from the accord paint job.

 

So yeah you can do it cheap, its not as good as a pure drift chassis but it will work, cars will drift, BUT its more DRIVER and MACHINE , not just the machine.

theres going to be times you just cant catch the car, or the drift just does not flow as you want, so stand back and take a break.

As for throttle, you will NEVER very rare need full throttle, but you will learn to blip the throttle fast, pulsing the motor to keep it loose.

and your steering will be SMOOTH yet commanding. so you dont stab at the wheel-stick just be ready to add a little extra turn or back of a tad with gentle

movement ( no need to let the steering self centre and ping back ).

 

one more tip. think ahead. where you will place the car when the skid starts, and at what point you you snap it back out.

most people will feint to enter a corner for drift,  ( a right hander ) from the inside lane of the track you will kick the steering to the left,

then you will flick it right, this kicks the left rear end out and start the slide, you will counter will steering and try to catch the slide while pumping the throttle

to keep the wheels and tyres loose. 

[danb1974]

I found out that after a while I wanted more wheel speed and went up on the pinion. Also not afraid to use full throttle. Yes I can initiate a drift at very low throttle but it got boring fast.

 

Depends on how much traction you have (given by surface and chosen tires), you can go anywhere between very slippery surface + slow drift to higher bite surface + aggressive higher speed drift, lots of throttle

 

mst has a really big selection of drift tires from very soft to very hard. Good thing is, once you know which one is good for you, you can order the exact same one the next time.

 

Two most important things imho are correct selection of tires (depending on the surface and temperature) and chassis setup - not to perfection, just to the point it does what you tell it, not what it wants - the point at which you cannot spin out, just overthrow the back but catch it

 

On hard sufaces (asphalt and alike) the easiest way to mess up is to set different camber for front and back, this makes the car uncontrollable. Just leave 0 all around and play with rear suspension until the car behaves.

 

Also if you diff out (a usually front wheel stops spinning during the drift) you will spin out the car. On dedicated drift cars they use locked diff in the rear and one way in the front so they don't have this issue.

[aidenb]

thankyou danb1974 & tamiyacowboy and everyone els that has put there thoughts a cross to me and it has realy realy helped me out a LOT.

 

so hears a list of what i am going to order but before i order it all i would like people to tell me if iv missed anything.

 

(Please click the links and have a look & read the ? if you can please)

 

MST MS-01D (10.5T brushless RTR)

[danb1974]

I would get some hardcase lipo batteries. Check the size (especially height, to avoid hitting the belt) but I expect 2S 5000mAh to fit, will give you over an hour on one charge. The ones from which the cables exit on one end of the top plate are better because the way the battery mount is made.

 

The brushless esc I expect it has lipo cutoff (just make sure it's activated from esc setup), but the lipo alarm certainly does not hurt

 

Good choice of charger. To avoid stressing the balance connector on the charger, get a 2s balance lead extension and leave it plugged in the charger. Will also ease up hooking the battery to the charger.

 

We usually solder the connector of choice (for example deans) on battery / esc / charging cable to avoid adapters, but that's for convenience, drifting does not require high amperage so no harm in using adapters, if you're not into soldering.

 

Get at least two sets of different drift tires, softer and harder (for example mst red dot 101024 and silver dot 101026), and enough rims for all of them. When playing choose the one that feels best depending on surface and temperature.

 

Practice, practice, practice.

Edited November 22, 2014 by danb1974

[aidenb]

UPDATE iv orded everything i shell update (pics) as things turn up 

[Carl160180]

I run a 3racing sakura d3 at our local drift track and can hold it with the mst's and yokomo dib's etc. Only