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air to engine query


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Hey all, im in the process of fitting my sons (birthday) beetle shell to his car so i can get all the holes etc done before i paint,  my question is regarding air to the engine, how much air dose the engine need in terms of cooling? i don't really want to cut anymore of the shell than i have to.

 

Id love to have the shell as complete as possible, though i have wandered if adding hole in the roof to mimic the sliding cloth sunroof,  might be enough?

 

The engine is (well will be) a Schumacher picco x28 (non turbo)

 

Thanks

 

 

Allan

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Various approaches to this.....

 

1) See how much space there is around the base of the shell once it's properly mounted. If there are big holes around the wheelarches and a bit of clear air around the tail, you should get air flow.

 

2) I tend to go for a pattern of smaller holes in the windscreen rather than a big hole, as it just looks far more natural on the car. If you are fitting a realistic looking shell, you want to make it look good as well!

 

3) Get a temperature check with a decent IR thermometer. Run a tank through with the shell off, and see how hot the motor gets. Then repeat with the un-modded shell. See how much of a difference you have, and whether you actually have a heat problem. Then start small. Holes in the back of the shell can help draw hot air out, so you start by cutting out vents which are natural to the car before major surgery.

 

In all honesty....with a decent amount of air under the shell ( unlike a close fitting buggy shell ) you may not have a problem at all

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Usually cutting a hole in the windscreen is enough, you need to get airflow through the cooling fins.

Hello, thank you for the reply.  i have seen this done before and this would definitely solve this issue but id rather not cut windows out unless there was no other option, aside from aesthetics, having the windows cut means more dirt/mud/water etc can get into the car, i know that cleaning the cars is part of owning these things, but anything that helps keep them clean is all the better for us.

 

 

Various approaches to this.....

 

1) See how much space there is around the base of the shell once it's properly mounted. If there are big holes around the wheelarches and a bit of clear air around the tail, you should get air flow.

 

2) I tend to go for a pattern of smaller holes in the windscreen rather than a big hole, as it just looks far more natural on the car. If you are fitting a realistic looking shell, you want to make it look good as well!

 

3) Get a temperature check with a decent IR thermometer. Run a tank through with the shell off, and see how hot the motor gets. Then repeat with the un-modded shell. See how much of a difference you have, and whether you actually have a heat problem. Then start small. Holes in the back of the shell can help draw hot air out, so you start by cutting out vents which are natural to the car before major surgery.

 

In all honesty....with a decent amount of air under the shell ( unlike a close fitting buggy shell ) you may not have a problem at all

 

Hello,

$_57.JPG

 

This is the shell a 1/8th shell from a Carrosserie Maggiolino NEW BEETLE Rally Game voiture (i don't know which part of this is the manufacturers name)

 

There is quite a large amount of free air within the shell, there's not too many natural/molded vents on the shell. Ill invest in an ir thermometer and get some temp readings.

 

Any other advice would be very much appreciated

 

Thank you

 

 

 

Allan

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Carrosserie = Body / bodywork.

Company must be Maggiolino.

 

I'm with you - hate cutting holes, even if it's 'practical'!!

 

Going to be another 'Herbie'?

Don't see why not - nice shell.

 

I understand the 'practicalities' of these Rally Game vehicles, but hate them - just look wrong!

Al.

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off topic <> where did you get that shell?

Hello, it was lucky find off ebay

 

 

Carrosserie = Body / bodywork.

Company must be Maggiolino.

 

I'm with you - hate cutting holes, even if it's 'practical'!!

 

Going to be another 'Herbie'?

Don't see why not - nice shell.

 

I understand the 'practicalities' of these Rally Game vehicles, but hate them - just look wrong!

Al.

Hello, im not really bothered about cutting holes, but cutting widows out could weaken the roof in the event of a roll over (high probability with a 5 nearly 6 year old at the controls), then there's the water, dirt, sand etc that gets in (i know dirts part of the game, but if i can limit it then all the better),  and last but not least is the look, they just look better to me with there windows intact, so if i can get away with not cutting the windows then im willing to put in the work elsewhere to help .

 

Yes this will be another Herbie, its the only reason we've been hunting for the past 8 months for a beetle shell, our son discovered Herbie and just loves the films (aswell as his herbie liveried hotwheels/matchbox) so as a birthday present, a Herbie liveried shell would be something amazing to him (i think)

 

I do agree that the shell dose look "off" in places, guess that's to get past licensing, but i think there is enough of the real car there to look past this.

 

Thanks

 

 

Allan

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looks like it could be ok from what i can see but as nitro said unitl it mounted up you don't really know.

 

 

 

if looks are important at all i've seen people in the past cut out the side/door windows abit, done in a shape that mimics the window being rolled down, some partialy some fully, has a good effect to it if you have that kind of skill (not easy to do it well) and it shouldn't weaken the shell too much, may want to round out any corners though to help it not to split.

 

 

 

otherwise look at the real thing and see if there are any windows form rally version you could copy.

 

 

failing that i'd do as nitroholic said, run the car and see how too it gets, if it getting too high put some small round holes in the windshield directly in front of the engine, 5 or 8 should give enough air flow to keep it cool, assuming there is enough space at the rear for the hot air to escape.

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cant wait to see it all painted up.  :yes: had a beetle  and mk1 golf as my first car when i passed my test.love retro cars. id get a bug shell for mine but doubt it would fit a ts4n  :angrymad:

Hi, well i don't know if this is any help to you, but here are the shell measurements incase you find one

 

Length: 53 cm

Wheelbase: 33 cm

Width: 24 cm

 

Those were from the seller.

 

 

 

 

looks like it could be ok from what i can see but as nitro said unitl it mounted up you don't really know.

 

 

 

if looks are important at all i've seen people in the past cut out the side/door windows abit, done in a shape that mimics the window being rolled down, some partialy some fully, has a good effect to it if you have that kind of skill (not easy to do it well) and it shouldn't weaken the shell too much, may want to round out any corners though to help it not to split.

 

 

 

otherwise look at the real thing and see if there are any windows form rally version you could copy.

 

 

failing that i'd do as nitroholic said, run the car and see how too it gets, if it getting too high put some small round holes in the windshield directly in front of the engine, 5 or 8 should give enough air flow to keep it cool, assuming there is enough space at the rear for the hot air to escape.

 

 

Hi, thank you, ill keep this and all the advice in mind once i do a few runs with and without the shell, well that's is i can get a clutch to last longer than a tank of fuel

 

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Allan

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Any other advice would be very much appreciated

Nitroholic gave the advice....you can cut a load of holes as a precaution...but probably as the shell is pretty "open" anyway then you will be fine as is...

A simple check when everything is up and running will tell you if the shell is making the engine run hotter.

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