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Candymans - Mini Revo build


Candyman

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I had a merv when they first came out, I liked it but sold it after about a year, tried a savage xs, didnt like that , tried a mini 8ight, didnt like that so now back to build the ultimate drivable mini revo! Im building the car mostly from new parts bought off ebay and choice hop ups.

 

Fist off a set of bearings and a tough screw kit that wont rust from "tonys screws".

 

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After some research im going with the tunigy 2845 in 3700kv, tis is a drop in fit but has 4 poles and lots of grunt, also retains the 1/8th shaft so pinions wont be a problem.

 

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The merv is a wheelie machine but after fitting a center diff the car is a lot easier to drive, the first bit of bling is the lovely alloy transmission case from GPM.

 

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For extra strength and reduced slop as much as bling factor the servo saver again from GMP

 

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Slight issue encountered, the case is obviously meant for the standard fixed gears as the centre diff catches the case! I had to machine a small section out.

 

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This is a bit extreme but I always liked the idea of these parts, titanium pivot balls all round along with titanium hinge pins all from lunsford. Also the titanium coated traxxas gold shock shafts.

 

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Rpm wishbones front and rear along with the front bumper.

 

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Finally for now Hot racing's shock bodies, I have used these before and found them leak free due to the screw on bottom collar, plus they will match my colour scheme :)

 

 

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Edited by Candyman
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Ive had Lunsford over the years and found them to be good, I did break a turnbuckle once and they sent me a new one to replace it for free, which is nice.

 

Shocks together with black and tan springs, 90wt shock oil.

 

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Another addition is the metal hollow balls as the stock black plastic ones are.... balls.

 

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Started to assemble it now

 

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Shiney gearbox in place and turnigy micro servo is going to be tried out.

 

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ritt dye is really simple mate if you can strip the car and boil the kettle your golden.

Ive done afew just by putting the chassis in hot water letting it soak mayb clean it too then leave it to soak while preparing another tub of fresh boiled water stir in the powder once stirred throw the plastic stuff in and put something on top to try and hold the heat in longer.

Ive done half a sachet with the chassis and parts dunked for 20min and they came out black and looking like new.

It takes scratches away too usually.

The most take care part is not spilling any of the dyed water on anything you do not want dyed and also the vapour coming out the bucket will slightly dye stuff too. plus you can taste it lol.

Just go for it they look 10x better when dyed. Ive had one come out with a bronze tinge to it which i liked. But to get absolute black use the whole packet and leave to soak longer.

I used an old microwave to reheat used dye once too and it dyed more parts i forgot to put in. I wouldn't do it with your own microwave or pots tho lol. check youtube.

But it is one real easy worthwhile mod. I thought letting the plastic soak in hot clean water first would soften it up and let the dye kick in quicker and believe it works too. Since ive done it in 20min and seen others say leave it an hour or more.

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Yeh I have googled it, looks a bit messy! i'd have to buy a few bits and pieces if I was going to do it myself.

 

 

dying parts is easy, i'll do them for you if you like, i don't mind.

 

 

car looks good as is though, black would be better lol

 

 

Might take you up on that in the future if its ok? obviously i'll pay you :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well the esc can move a 2kg buggy with a 540 size 5.5t, I have it in a 1kg revo, with a 380 size motor and 3s so less current. Im expecting it to be very cool running, if not I can always make a hole and mount a fan on the chassis.

Edited by Candyman
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