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Ansmann Hot Rod - I want to go faster!


pritch

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Hi folks

 

I have an Ansmann Hot Rod brushless that I bought on ebay because it was super-cheap, about

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Chuck a 3s in, be prepared to drop the gearing a little if temps get high, and try it out. The finned 540 cans are pretty good, I banged a 9t version in a df02 and on 3s she flies.

There is no substitute for a true, 540 can though...save up the pennies, hobbyking do 80a combos for around 40 quid; I've just purchased a pair of quicrun, 3800kv four poles to try out to, they were around 40 quid posted from rcecho...

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The 9t is a great motor in a light 2wd but the key here is to remember its got a high kV at the cost of low torque.

 

That means its at its best being allowed to rev freely, and at its worst pulling big gears. You might be surprised to find you go faster dropping down in gearing just because it lets the motor rev better.

 

But yes - 3S and make it a pack with a decent C rating too. A lot of people forget that a good lipo can make a big difference.

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Each motor has a sweetspot, just a question. Of finding it, my team epic D3 10.5t runs tall gearing. And has plenty to go, get some cheap pinions, find the range the motor runs best at then invest in some RW pinions,last for years :)

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Thanks Gents

 

Noj do you get any customs fee issues with rcecho?

 

Good point Si about the gearing. I'm in the dark a bit with figuring how much gearing this thing can push around, as I don't think I've ever played with a model that's this light before. It is cogging a little bit already but that doesn't bother me for what I want to do with it, just high speed runs with slower turns. A 3S will add a bit of weight.

 

Think I'll get me some pinions and try to find that sweet spot. The RW ones from Modelsport look nice but I'm quite tempted to get some more of these kimbroughs actually - carbon fibre mesh, very quiet in operation, only downside is a smaller than 1.5mm grub screw which in past experience are a bugger for rounding...

 

What C rating would you go for in a 3S for this application?

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I've got a rather nice set of RW acetate pinions. Mine were prototypes but I think they are starting making them. Super quiet and with two holes bored for a grub screw in case one strips out.

 

The actual C rating to use will depend on the capacity of the cells and this is the big mistake people make with 3S lipos. Squeezing a 3rd cell into the same space normally means the pack has a lower capacity (say 4500mAh vs 3000 for 3S) - if both packs are say 25C then the 2S provides a decent current (25x4.5 = 112.5A) but the 3S significantly less (25x3 = 75A).

 

For packs over 5000mAh I'd opt for no less than 40C, for 4000 no less than 50C and 3000 60C.

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Well, I've picked up a Floureon 3S 5500mah on ebay, supposedly rated 35c. I don't know what this will be like but it was less than 20 delivered so worth a pop.

 

Wouldn't mind getting some decent 3S lipos at some point - probably a pair for potential 6S applications - I see elsewhere on the forum that folks are happy to go with Turnigy nanos from Hobbyking?

 

I've never used Hobbyking before but they do have a lot of goodies. I created an account and left the lipo page I was looking at on overnight, came back this morning and a wee discount offer message had popped up :yes:

 

Shipping's a bit pricey though, even from the UK warehouse, I guess you try and order as much stuff as you can within each weight limit band?

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Hobbyking are ok, just be aware that nanotech packs aren't all they are cracked up to be; whilst punchy, they have a higher failure rate in terms of randomly dropping cells and an overall shorter lifespan.

As for the flureon pack, could be ok, keep an eye on it...these 'unbranded' lipos are an unknown quantity, especially in terms of actual capacity and c rating.

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Thanks for the tip jims. I have built one of these transmissions in my Ansmann DT which was a kit, and if I do say so, it's quite a bit slicker than the RTR one in the hot rod which I haven't touched yet... :yes:

 

First time I put it together I thought the diff was way too loose at what they recommended, I tightened it and the slipper up and it's been fine since, though it is only a standard 540 brushed in that DT. And as Gordon Ramsay might say, my one is "packed with

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Standard Turnigy or Zippy lipos, from Hobbyking, are generally good vfm and come in a variety of flavours to suit; the site gives dimensions for each pack, so no posting status updates bemoaning the fact that your new lipo won't fit! ;)

A variety of connectors are fitted, so a bit of soldering may be required.

Gens ace are popular, as are SMC (?), pricy though, maybe more beneficial to racers over bashers??

Just remember the basic maths of amp hour x c rating to ensure the pack can deliver the current required (as noted by Si in an earlier post) and order away :)

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Just a little update as it seems determined to rain on my day off when my newly 3S powered Hot Rod wants test running... :sadwalk:

 

But I did get it out on the road. It's that much quicker, that my road isn't actually long enough now - with a couple of cars parked up today as well - for me to hold full throttle down. That's a good thing :yes:

 

There is a lot of acceleration - too much for racing - but fine in a crazy Hot Rod thing. The tyres got a bit damp which didn't help. The extra power seems to have cured the cogging as well.

 

The Floureon lipo seems ok - came with a deans plug and fits my balance plug so that was all good. It wanted just over 2000mAh putting into it prior to first use which suggests it was at about the right storage level.

 

The extra lipo weight is causing a bit of sag. I'm not sure I can be bothered to change the oil in the cheap shocks. Does anyone know of some firmer spring sets or even cheap firmer complete shocks that'll fit the Hot Rod / Macnum / Mad rat etc.?

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Thanks Noj. Any thoughts on shock weight? My hot rod didn't come with a manual so don't know what they pre-fill em with. She tips the scales at a fraction over 1.7kg now.

 

I thought about getting some bling wheels for it but nothing is a standard size on this thing - 63mm diameter? Regular 1/10th road wheels are going to look too small on it I think (though might be better suited to this motor?). Can't be much bigger either or I'll be overgeared.

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I've run the absimas as they come thus far, only minor gripe are the stock springs, which are firm....for ten quid a pair, shouldn't complain. I'd guess the stock oil to be around 30/35wt, but don't quote me ;)

If you fancy a wide wheel look, check out Tamiya Street Rover, chrome dynablaster wheels/tyres...they need foams, personally I really like the look...

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