Jump to content
  • Join our community

    Sign-up for free and join our friendly community to chat and share all things R/C!

Trackstar ESC question


n3il

Recommended Posts

So iv put the below combo into my mini recon

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__44541__TrackStar_1_18th_Scale_7_5T_Brushless_power_System_6100kv_UK_Warehouse_.html

It dosnt mention in the manual how it shows its reached its battery cut off level... Anyone know what it does? Its just set on default...where it auto detects the cell quantity

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was wanting to know if the esc beeps or flashes led,s etc so i know straight away its in cut off mode. I wasnt sure on my first ever lipo run thats all so i recharged the lipo and i was still getting issues, so i think my transmitter batteries were playing up! So im charging them now to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You received a manual with a trackstar ESC??? Count yourself very fortunate!

Using the (sold separately) program card is the easiest way to change lvc settings etc, watching LEDs and listening to beeps is a tedious process, with much margin for error.

Is your Rx aerial damage free, and positioned away from items of interference?

I would try re calibrating your ESC and tx (ensuring any tx trim settings for throttle are at zero) and test again. Turnigy kit isn't always the best, it should work though, at least a handful of times ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

looks like the joint on the esc may be soldered badly.

 

 

 

 

i have an issue with my recon in that i turn it on an nothing happens, i can get it to work after jiggling it abit and it will work fine, tis the risk of buying cheap at the end of the day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol i agree with the cheap....you get what you pay for lol! But still should last longer than half a charge.

Iv pretty much ruled out issues with transmitter/receiver as iv swapped them out twice and rebinded them! Hopefully i wont have to send it back for testing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had a trackstar turbo 120 esc for over a year now and it's never put a foot wrong, I don't normally rate turnigy stuff as I use their nanotech high discharge lipo's and they don't last but I've got that esc and I've had an XK series motor too and they are spot on :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Omg Hk customer services are becoming very itritating, its looking like i have to send it back to them for testing as i cant show them its either a fault with the esc or motor as i dont have or know of anyone with a spare esc to use! Come on hk its only a blooming

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps its me, but opening the link in the original post, I notice that the motor is rated at a maximum current of 40A, but that the ESC only rates at continuous of 18A and a burst of 25A.

 

True this probably doesn't relate to your problem, but does indicate to me that the motor and ESC are mis-matched.

 

Al.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps its me, but opening the link in the original post, I notice that the motor is rated at a maximum current of 40A, but that the ESC only rates at continuous of 18A and a burst of 25A.

 

True this probably doesn't relate to your problem, but does indicate to me that the motor and ESC are mis-matched.

 

Al.

I have no idea if its a problem....surely not as they wouldnt sell them together????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay i checked the box specs and the burst amperage of the esc is 90amps...somjust a tipo.

Update on the rma....i just had a very quick chat on there live chat and there sending me out a replacement.....strange why the original guy didnt do this.

I may disect the originals to see if i can see anything obvious

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been looking around different rc shops, and i was surprised how cheap these combos are compaired to everything else for a 1/18 ...hope the next one is ok! I think the next cheapest was around

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hobbyking pricing is cheap...perhaps for a reason...cheaper components on the board, in the cans... Way I look at it is, if it works and is reliable, why worry what brand name is on it (unless it is a largescale set up, then I have reservations...maybe.. ;) )

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

one of the biggest and most common things that lower price are cheaper parts but more so with quality control as it takes alot of time.

 

the result is alot of dud units can slip through before the problem is found, this is proably why you get so many people the range from good experience with their batteries to some having bad ones.

 

no different with their motors and other electronics, iirc the best way to make them cheaper is to use cheaper fets on the boards which have a habbit of failing as a result.

 

in terms of cars its easier to use lower quality plastics and alloys, which is why you see so many cars from shenq and nitrotek getting smashed all to hell all the time.

 

there are afew exceptions to the rule of buying cheap and buying twice but i've found in this hobby it tends to pay off in the long run to spend decent money on parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So new motor and esc in and seems to be running fine :)

Got a question though ref the lipo cutoff

4c9f45db04f60222309daea8b883c4bc_zps9046

Its set to default and i think its cutting in around 3.7v....recharging now to check its the cut off! but above if you set it to 2s its 3v....isnt that to low??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...