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Mt4g3 vs savage flux


Thomas rc

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Hey guys. Well my mt4g3 is broke yet again which means out of a handful of light runs it isn't living upto it durability. But, I'm still willing to give it a chance before I change it for a savage. I'm also considering getting a castle 2200 kv motor but , will there be much difference over the standard ripper 2000kv? Any other suggestions on motors are welcome

Thanks

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If your breaking it with the stock ripper then sticking in a more powerful motor will just break it more so I'd figure why it's breaking and fix that first !!. If it's eating diffs or snapping cvd's it will just get worse with more power !!

I tried the Sirius 2200 kv which was a simaliar motor to the castle and I think it just ran too hot and lacked in any real power performance to justify the price tag of the motor .. Then I tried a leopard 4082 2000 kv tons of torque and more than enough power but it keeped blowing wheel hexes so I bowed back to the stock motor next on my list will be something in around 1600 kv to 1800 kv but yet to make my mind up on what

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I'm trying trial and error to get it more durable. It just seems a lot of problems although so it's now in bits and I'm going over everything. The savage flux seems to handle the power no probs so the mt4 should or else I sell it and get a savage. I'm currently drilling the hexes to pin them to the wheel to stop them stripping and also aliminium tape round the hexes so they fit more snug in the rim. I run 6s all the time so I'll have a few things break but like I said as they break I'll try upgrading things. The joys of rc haha

Thanks

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Looks a beast aswell just googled it I'm guessing you would recommend it over the castle 2200. I hope this mod I'm doing by drilling the hex and rim to pin them will stop the hex stripping problem. I suppose im giving the truck a bit of a bad rep. Once I get these niggles done in sure I'll be able to enjoy it.

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That mod might work ok on a 1/10 th scale or smaller but the amount of force your running on I'm not so sure it will hold up to be honest ?

Depends why there stripping thou I guess is it power or loose wheel nuts ? If it's power and grip then it will just get worse the more you add. If it's loose nuts then add some thread lock and leave it overnight to cure

There's loads of lovers and haters of any rc some folks just seem to have better luck than others on trucks and some folks just expect more than others so don't worry if you think it's crap just say it you bought it so you can say whatever you want!

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i think they were fed up with people doing crazy things on 6s  snapping something than trying to blame TT   also it is down to how you drive the car.  take a speed run for instance. A should you hit full throttle then hit top speed then apply full brake. or B slowly apply throttle then hit top speed  then slowly apply the brake.

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Yea I think that's right because it can handle 6s. It just needs a few niggles sorting to make it more durable. For example my rear diff went on my second run with it and it wasn't driving hard and that is unacceptable. I've since rebuilt the diffs and put silicone diff oil in it. I would advise to do this straight away now

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Not sure you can say its unacceptable when in the manual it states a max of 4s and your running above that on 6s !!..

 

If you had of done some research before buying then you would have read about its weak diffs and the need for extra shimming along with some other well known points of weakness like loose wheel nuts and the likes .. 

 

No a truck shouldn't break out the gate, but yes you should pay attention to the manufacturer's guidelines set out in the manual.. If you want to ignore them then if it goes wrong who is really at fault ?? 

 

 

 

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I done research. Plenty people run 6s on the mt4 to heme fair 4s is rubbish. The diff gears on most rc manufacturers are very similar it's not rocket science. Why do thunder tiger put 6s capable electronics on it then. Look at it like this. People who convert hyper 7s to brushless and run 6s. Does it say in the manual not to ? No it doesn't

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4s drivetrain with 6s capable electronics as a failsafe its that simple.

comparisons don't work in rc, for example I can map my car to make more power but the manufacturer sends it out stating the power as its then reliable etc

your doing this buy loading the car up with more power, you have to except breakages until you address it.

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I done research. Plenty people run 6s on the mt4 to heme fair 4s is rubbish. The diff gears on most rc manufacturers are very similar it's not rocket science. Why do thunder tiger put 6s capable electronics on it then. Look at it like this. People who convert hyper 7s to brushless and run 6s. Does it say in the manual not to ? No it doesn't

So if you where to make a warranty claim and tell Thunder Tiger I was running 6s and this or that broke what do you think there say ? The argument is not weather there electrics are capable that's easy as they are, it's more a case is the running gear or drivetrain capable and it's clear thunder tiger think not or maybe not all the time so you need to except the consciences if you do hence the change in the manual to state 4s running max ?

Just because say joe up the road does it or I do it that doesn't make it right just means I got away with it this time but maybe next I won't ! .. Like I say thou it's your truck bash it moan about it as you feel fit to do so.. Personally I think if I was you I'd sell it on move on as this is just not going to give what you want without running at max and breaking a lot.. Perhaps in your case your be better of with a savage or a hyper 7 running 6s as they don't break !!

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