turtletom100 Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Well exactly what it says in the title I have changed the brake in my hpi firestorm but now when I push it along the floor to check the brake isn't rubbing and yo make sure the brake was working using the controller it appears to have a jingle. I have made a video (excuse the heavy breathing lol I can't breath through my nose at the moment lol) Jingle bells: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshimoto Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 (edited) That sounds like your clutch bell-you havnt got a bell housing bearing on its way out have you?or a slightly misaligned motor...did you take anything else off or apart during the brake service? Yoshimoto Edited September 15, 2014 by Yoshimoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisjw Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Sounds like the spur gear alignment could be out.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 That sounds like your clutch bell-you havnt got a bell housing bearing on its way out have you?or a slightly misaligned motor...did you take anything else off or apart during the brake service? Yoshimoto Pretty dumb question but just what is the clutch bell? I have literally just replaced the triple clutch about 10 days ago and the car hasn't being used properly only trying to sort the needles out to get it to idle properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Sounds like the spur gear alignment could be out.............. Just before the brake went last week (because the controller batteries started to die and caused brakes to be applied whilst trying to sort the needles out, ended up heating the brake pad to a point it was red hot and just broke into several parts) the engine mount screws were 4a5tling so this is possibly the reason why. Is this done the same way as what I have to do on electric with the pinion and spur with the paper test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Okie so I have made another video (again sorry about darth vader breathing, got ssome man flu lol but not bad enough to stop rc car related work.) after this I am pretty sure it is just me gearing needs re aligning. Is this correct? If so what is the best way to do this, would it be just paper? And how would I go around using loctite on the engine mount screws as I will surely end up having to re align it? Also changing subject a bit but is me brake alright not sure if you can tell on any of the videos? Gearing?: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshimoto Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 The spur gear cannot be misaligned-only the engine in relation to the spur gear,the mesh is set in the same way as electric but with much larger tooth profiles theres room for more than a bit of paper-just discernable play is probably very near to where you want to be. As the truck is not fully run in yet i wouldnt worry too much about the jingling as this is common with HPI's along with many others. As long as the jingling doesnt turn into crunching or grinding you will be fine but if it worsens or becomes less than smooth look for a fault.The clutch pinion runs very close to the spur as std. I couldnt see any run out in your video but check that the spur is mounted flat along with the pads just incase,if there has been a pad omitted here or assembly is incorrect the clutch pinion may well now be contacting the spur gear and in turn making your truck jingle. Clutch bell is the larger diameter part sat behind the pinion and is 1 part.It houses the clutch shoes and runs on two ballraces. Check your mesh-check your engine mounting bolts-only use blue thread lock if any at all on these bolts-if they are clean and tidy then threadlock will not be needed.Decent quality hex drivers will be a big help here-anything less than perfect will round out the heads causing a mare. Most of my HPI's 'jingle' a little as long as theres no binding or tell tale scars you may well have to put up with it...let us know what you find Yoshi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshimoto Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 (edited) Aha yes there is too much slack there,move the engine to remove it but still allow the smallest amount of free play.You do not have to use locktight...if you do dont cover the whole thread just the highest 2 or 3 threads near the head of bolt at top of threaded hole-this will lock but still allow removal and stay away from red threadlock if you can. Yoshi Edited September 15, 2014 by Yoshimoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Aha yes there is too much slack there,move the engine to remove it but still allow the smallest amount of free play.You do not have to use locktight...if you do dont cover the whole thread just the highest 2 or 3 threads near the head of bolt at top of threaded hole-this will lock but still allow removal and stay away from red threadlock if you can. Yoshi Thanks for the detailed reply. I think it is run in as I did buy it from some one used but I have stripped, cleaned and sealed the engine and carb. (Hence why I am currently trying to adjust the needles as when I took the carb off I took everything possible off and cleaned it up with carb cleaner), replaced the one way bearing and pullstart, replaced the three clutch shoes to lightweight answer clutch shoes (I think they're answer), changed the switch as the old switch had a crack through it, replaced all the fuel lines to make sure that there was nothing going into the engine after it had being cleaned, changed the header gasket as this was in pieces and currently waiting for an os glow plug as I read these are good plugs. I will move the engine over a fraction tommorow and I have green loctite so just to be safe will just put a little bit on the first couple of threads and going to put a little bit on the exhaust/header screws. I am a newbie to the nitro scene. My other project is/was a brushed carnage which I have uprated to a brushless motor so know about the aligning with paper. I have still got to purchase some more slipper pads but the guy I bought it from has upgraded the spur to an integy which has its own pads (it can't find these seperately) so will buy another spur with the pads. I will upload another video once I have re aligned the engine. Hopefully that sorts the jingle if not will just keep an eye on it. Not sure if there is anything else which is recommended for this car? I am going to buy a infrared heat gun to help make sure I have set the hsn/lsn/idle screws correctly as where I am a bit of a novice with the tuning/tweaking I am going to struggle doing it by sound. Once again thank you for all your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Also what is run out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshimoto Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Much like a buckled wheel...side to side run out....up or down run out... Yoshi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Much like a buckled wheel...side to side run out....up or down run out... Yoshi Ahhhhhhh I understand I haven't even being able to take it out and see if the wheels wobble around or if the steering is out to be honest so I couldn't let ya k ow o that one fingers crossed I will take it out tommorow and give it a go but if it don't sound like it running right I will wait till I have got a infared heat gun and try tweaking the needles then. I have changed the positioning a little bit and it does seem to have got rid of the worst of the jingle so hopefully all is well there now. Possibly fixed?: http://youtu.be/VBQKBhn_shs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshimoto Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 (edited) Its not really the wheels that would cause a 'jingle' i was referring to the spur gear-if it had 'runout' and wasnt flat it would be moving side to side and contacting the clutch bell as it turns. Yoshi Edited September 16, 2014 by Yoshimoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Its not really the wheels that would cause a 'jingle' i was referring to the spur gear-if it had 'runout' flat it would be moving side to side and contacting the clutch bell as it turns. Yoshi Oh I see no I don't think that is happening. Well tried running it this morning after leaving the battery pack on charge last night and batteries for the controller and glow plug starter. And noticed my glow plug starter weren't working properly and the battery bit has actually pretty much fallen off so that was a waste of time lol If it isn't one thing with this car it is another think it's cursed lol. Keep on thinking about selling it or stripping it and selling it in parts then go and buy a new rtr nitro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitro-Guy69 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 is it poss you over charged the glow starter? alot of the chargers dont have a cut off when the battery is fully charged, i had 1 glow starter that said never charge longer than 10 hours, so i guess its poss?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 is it poss you over charged the glow starter? alot of the chargers dont have a cut off when the battery is fully charged, i had 1 glow starter that said never charge longer than 10 hours, so i guess its poss?? Well in this instance I pretty sure it is broke because when I went to charge it last night on the charger it self there is a led which was flickering and I had to make sure it was in a certain position to charge. And as we speak the glow pkug charger is in 2 bits the top (I'd imagine is the battery) and the metal pole that goes over the glow plug. I can't say whether or not they just tickle charge after they are fully charged. I am using an ansmann triple charger (charges the glow plug starter, battery pack for car and also charges controller via a dc jack) * tickle charge should be trickle, would be a bit weird if it was tickle loo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarth_1200 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Glow starters arent much to buy, best having two then when one breaks you have a spare ready charged. If this is your first RC I would hold onto it and learn driving it, breaking it and fixing it, so far your good at fixing it and thats one of the more important steps, anyone can bash one up but being able to learn and fix is valuable if you want to enjoy this hobby. Try a thin strip of paper between the spur and pinion, place it in then roll the car so it feeds through, then lift the wheels off the ground and slowly pull the paper back out, your looking for neat crinkles but not sharp folds and definetly no tears, this is just a visual aid to setting the mesh by fell and ear. Read the stickies on tuning a nitro, you can adjust any needles from factory just from idling the engine needs to be up to a decent temp, ie 2 or 3 mins half throttle passes. lean the High speed needle first until its starts to scream then richen back a 8th of a turn, then do the same with the low speed needle. lean is clockwise and reduces the amount of fuel to air ratio so peaks performance. watch your temps and smoke trail. Might be telling you all this and you already know but its all helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Glow starters arent much to buy, best having two then when one breaks you have a spare ready charged. If this is your first RC I would hold onto it and learn driving it, breaking it and fixing it, so far your good at fixing it and thats one of the more important steps, anyone can bash one up but being able to learn and fix is valuable if you want to enjoy this hobby. Try a thin strip of paper between the spur and pinion, place it in then roll the car so it feeds through, then lift the wheels off the ground and slowly pull the paper back out, your looking for neat crinkles but not sharp folds and definetly no tears, this is just a visual aid to setting the mesh by fell and ear. Read the stickies on tuning a nitro, you can adjust any needles from factory just from idling the engine needs to be up to a decent temp, ie 2 or 3 mins half throttle passes. lean the High speed needle first until its starts to scream then richen back a 8th of a turn, then do the same with the low speed needle. lean is clockwise and reduces the amount of fuel to air ratio so peaks performance. watch your temps and smoke trail. Might be telling you all this and you already know but its all helpful. Cheers for your reply I did have 2 glow starters (one hpi 1800mah and one 5000mah) the 5000mah is the o e that is now screwed, always the way lol. I also own a ftx carnage brushless ( was brushed but I upgraded to a brushless) this is my first owned nitro but had previous basic knowledge as my brother owned a savage xl. I am pretty sure the alignment is alright now but just don't k ow what else to try or do to this car it is proper starting to irritate me. I am considering just selling it or stripping it and selling it (it has all integy hop ups at rear, integy spur gear even integy pull start handle lol. Also has carbon top plate) it was working last week just needed tweaking until the brake disc went on it and I had to order a new one of those. I have also got a spare engine and other bits for the firestorm as the guy I bought it from slammed his first one and ruined the front end so just bought another one. I literally have no idea as to what else it could be. In the last 2/3 weeks it has had - new lightweight three shoe clutch - new one way bearing - new pullstart - new brake disc - new exhaust/header gasket - new slipper pads (but when went to fit them realised the spur wasn't standard it's also integy) - new fuel lines (just to be safe) - new on/off switch (previous one had a crack on it) - stripped the carb and cleaned everything up (all needles included) - sealed the backplate of the engine using a rtv hi temperature silicone. I have also ordered an os glow plug as I read this was a good plug to use but just got to wait for it to be delivered. This will be my last step I think and tommorow I am going to use a hair dryer and try heating the engine up before starting. I just don't understand how it works one week (granted needed tweaking still) the n not the next not a peach I'd say I pulled the pull start over 100 times today to a point I have a blister on my middle finger from pulling it lol. I have never set up the needles so maybe this is where I am going wrong who knows. Like I say I will heat up 3 nine and try again tommorow then if that don't work I will empty fuel wait till next week or whenever the os plug gets here and try again then if still don't work last option is 5 along to my lhs and seeing how much they charge to tweak the needles. Depending on that don't k ow what else to do lol sorry about long message Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Also even when the needles are back flush/factory I can't get the car started to even let the car heat up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarth_1200 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 5 pulls max on pullstart if engine is heated, carb is primed, thottle is a little open on trim and glowplug undone half a turn to reduce compression a little. Check and re check all these points before you break the pullstart assembly. Blow fuel through the lines by pulling the pressure line off the exhaust port, just until it hits the carb. Make sure your glowplug works. All sounds straight forward but I know what its like at the time of trying to get it at least running and running out of options. BTW im new to this also and I have learned pretty fast, trial and error and good people on this forum and online resources are all the help you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 5 pulls max on pullstart if engine is heated, carb is primed, thottle is a little open on trim and glowplug undone half a turn to reduce compression a little. Check and re check all these points before you break the pullstart assembly. Blow fuel through the lines by pulling the pressure line off the exhaust port, just until it hits the carb. Make sure your glowplug works. All sounds straight forward but I know what its like at the time of trying to get it at least running and running out of options. BTW im new to this also and I have learned pretty fast, trial and error and good people on this forum and online resources are all the help you need. Yea should be within 5 pulls but not with this car lol. Even after 100 still nothing. And engine hasn't being heated yet will try doing that tommoro (but it worked last week so not sure what has happened in the week) Other than that I have made sure it is primed, tried turning throttle trim up a bit. Have primed engine both ways - taking fuel line out exhaust and blowing and also sticking finger over exhaust and pulling 3/4 times. Glow plug has being tried in the glow plug starter and glows bright orange and sizzles/smoke (burning the fuel off the plug) Another thing I will try tommorow is put a couple drops of fuel directly in the carb and see if this helps. I am recently new to this forum but have had good input from a few members on this site and have been very helpful getting to where I am now with my 2 cars. I am starting to get a bit annoyed now though I must say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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