Pistonhead Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 I need a bit of help with my Hyper ST brushless. It's twice now unsoldered it's own motor connections whilst running, namely in tighter low speed spaces rather than flat out. I'm running all Hyper 7 transmission including spur and diff pinions, 19t pinion, 2000kv Hobbywing motor, hobbywing Quicrun WP 8BL150 esc, and a 90-160c 5000mah 4s lipo. The motor connectors were the presoldered ones that came on the motor until i resoldered them earlier. Is it just a case of re soldering them again, or would shortening the wires to the esc help as they're relatively long still. Or is it still a gearing issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Try using different solder. I use the Schumacher stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shdaxner Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 What connectors are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Agree with Alex, I had some stuff coming off randomly (sometimes not even when running) switched to some solder that Aaron suggested and it's been top notch, not had a single bad solder joint since then. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistonhead Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 The connectors are the ones supplied with the esc. I'll shorted the wires down tomorrow and give it another go tomorrow, if it does it again then i'll change solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 I can highly recommend Weller 1.0mm, new stuff I'm using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arogon1235 Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 I can highly recommend Weller 1.0mm, new stuff I'm using same here awesome stuff and not a bad price either and lasts for ages 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 same here awesome stuff and not a bad price either and lasts for ages Yeah I'm surprised how long my roll has lasted, don't need as much I've found, or rather, it distributes itself much better than my old stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 My stuff is the Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistonhead Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 (edited) WOOOP!!!! 2000 POSTS YO!!! I'll see if i can pick up some different stuff before i even try tomorrow, i know automotive stuff takes high ampage and is a bit more heavy duty Edited September 15, 2014 by Pistonhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyronn Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 I use this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reel-Cored-Flux-Solder-100g-60-40-Tin-Lead-Resin-/310087489205?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item4832a796b5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistonhead Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Just finished resoldering again, fingers crossed it don't happen again lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReggieC Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 When I changed the engine in my 1:1 Beetle, The guy helping me said that soldering joints are useless in any place where they get hot and can move. Unfortunately we have no choice in RC's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistonhead Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 All is good, the joints held for a full pack of speed runs. Shortening the wires may have helped too as it's reduced the resistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReggieC Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Less wire also means that they will move around less meaning less stress on the joints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistonhead Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Ok, took it for a blast at the local skate park and it unsoldered a joint yet again. I'll resolder the joint again tomorrow after i've calmed down because right now i'm nearly at the point of lobbing the thing off a cliff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 This shouldn't be happening, how hot is the motor getting? Are the mounting screws too long and therefore touching the coils? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deafty Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 very good point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistonhead Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 The motor is on the hotter side of warm but that's due to a slight under gearing and the pinion isn't fouling on the mount either. I've been running this exact same combo in my Hyper 7 for months without issue, but within a few packs of it being in the ST i started having issues. I think i'll gear up a couple of teeth on the pinion, resolder the joint and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 May also be an idea to get some 6mm bullets to rule out bad connectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistonhead Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks, will give that a try too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saabmania2 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Do you flux your solder joints? if not you might be getting dry joints which tend to crack when they get hot, don't bother with the solder with flux separate pot of flux is much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistonhead Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 I'll try the flux next time as my brother has some in his van (he's a plumber) I bodged it back together for some speed runs (just pushed the connector back inside the heat shrink) and it ran perfectly, but got hot enough to resolder the joint by itself again. Just a thinking there might be an internal short or failt on the motor if it's getting the wires that hot. The wires are only getting hot and unsoldering on the motor wires yhenselves, the esc side of the connectors are noticeably cooler and have never unsoldered on their own. The motor is running hotter now than it ever was in the Hyper 7 with the same gearing plus the bigger truggy wheels - so it's effectively geared up and should let the motor run cooler - and was only really hot to the touch at the end of a full pack of speed runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deafty Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 (edited) got any pics? and,.. Are the mounting screws too long and therefore touching the coils? same motor mount? Edited September 16, 2014 by Deafty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 If the Truggy is heavier and higher geared, that's not going to give the motor an easier time, but a much harder time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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