turtletom100 Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Hey guys I am buying a firestorm but apparently the engine don't work. They recon it is the idle screw and/or the carb sscrews, I am just wondering how I would go around putting these to factory and what else to look at to try and get this fired up? Are there any tests I can do to narrow done resins why it might not work? Failing that I will be replacing the engine but not to sure what to replace it with. I have read some people sticking an os engine in and have found - OS Engines .18 TZ(P) T ABC 11K Slide Carb OSM11940 Or OS Engines .18 TZ-TX ABC 11L Rotary Carb OSM11943 I'm not to sure what the difference in rotary carb and slide carb is though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_bench10 Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 You want a rotary for the firestorm instead of sliding as a slide carb does it rotates forwards and backwards tonooen and close Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Ok so if I do need to get a new engine get the rotary one, do you know if it will be a straight swap or if I will need to either buy new parts such as engine mounts or mod anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
behappy2755 Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) Rotary carb is where the carb opens by twisting the carb valve. To find out if yours is a rotary or slide turn on the radio system and move the throttle. You will see the carb move. If it is a twisting motion then rotary, or if it slides out and in it is a slide carb. The engine should fit ok without changing parts. If it doesn't you can see what is misaligned, and buy some parts. If it really doesn't fit then you can always return it within a month or something. Edited September 1, 2014 by behappy2755 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.K Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 To set the carbs back to factory you need to adjust the needles until the top is flush with its housing. Try this before buying a new engine, you'd be surprised at how many folk give up on nitro and flog it as faulty when it's actually user error! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Rotary carb is where the carb opens by twisting the carb valve. To find out if yours is a rotary or slide turn on the radio system and move the throttle. You will see the carb move. If it is a twisting motion then rotary, or if it slides out and in it is a slide carb. The engine should fit ok without changing parts. If it doesn't you can see what is misaligned, and buy some parts. If it really doesn't fit then you can always return it within a month or something. The engine I am looking at comes from minnisota so if dread to think delivery costs lol I will make it fit. And pretty sure it's rotary now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 To set the carbs back to factory you need to adjust the needles until the top is flush with its housing. Try this before buying a new engine, you'd be surprised at how many folk give up on nitro and flog it as faulty when it's actually user error! I will definitely try this I have received and as weird ad this sounds the pull feels very judery ((possibly one way bearing) and it definitely don't want to even kick over. The pull cord either juders or the cord gets stuck (don't wind back in) but if I tale heats ink and glow plug off it pulls itself back in? I not 100% sure what this means though. I 90% sure engine not seized as piston moves up an down fine. Any ideas as to what this could mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanp Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 that sounds like your compression is quite high loosen the plug a tad whe you try to start and heat the engine aswell that should loosen the pinch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 that sounds like your compression is quite high loosen the plug a tad whe you try to start and heat the engine aswell that should loosen the pinch When you say loosen the plug I guess you mean the glow plug? By doing this isn't it going to cause issues though? I don't want it just popping out lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanp Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 yes the glow plug only a tad to before its tight or you could add another copper washer that should do the same thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 yes the glow plug only a tad to before its tight or you could add another copper washer that should do the same thing Have tried this to tonight but it still don't seem to have helped I have taken all fuel pipes off and cleaned the nozzles as an added extra. There is fuel going around fine and have tried starting it again it has almost kicked over but not quite still. I am going to buy a new one way bearing and pullstart as this pullstart is still getting stuck and not pulling it self back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanp Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 ok i wish you luck try a new pullstart first i remember mines went 6 months in to owning mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 So I have had the car started (if can call it that) it starts and spins then cuts off I have being told it's probably clutch shoes.so I am going to buy some more clutch shoes/springs for this but not sure what I need I am also going to change the pull start and one way bearing and take off the carb and clean it in a parrafin oil bath. Hopefully this will all help. If anyone could suggest a set of clutch shoes/springs to use it would be appreciated I have read using a 1/8 3 clutch shoe set up would help (I think this is the right information if not please correct me I am new to nitro and kinda jumped in the deep end) Also with regards to the pull start if I lose the pull start when it does get stuck out it will pull itself back in (not to sure why) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitro-Guy69 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 im no expert but if your pullstart is hard to pull it can be a sign the engine is flooded, in this case you dont want to keep trying to pull as it will damage it, hence it might get a bit 'dodgy' like not pulling straight back in all the way etc, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 im no expert but if your pullstart is hard to pull it can be a sign the engine is flooded, in this case you dont want to keep trying to pull as it will damage it, hence it might get a bit 'dodgy' like not pulling straight back in all the way etc, It's not hard to pull I can pull it with ease but the issue is it sometimes (say 1 in 5 on average) won't coil it self back iin so of I undo the 3 screws a bit to lose the pullstart it pulls it self back in rrapidly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitro-Guy69 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 i've had that before, then the pullstart spring went a lil while after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 i've had that before, then the pullstart spring went a lil while after Well I have striped the engine and carb down to needles and screws and cleaned the lot with carb cleaner put it all back together emptied fuel and cleaned fuel tank, replaced new fuel in tank and it starts just needs some tweaking as it is wanting to full throttle all the time (not sure why) but the pull cord is still getting stuck and I have to pap the casing then it retracts. I am currently looking at - new hpi genuine pull start - new one way bearing (as pullstart don't come with this) - I've bought stock slipper pads (has currently got integy spur and slipper pads, but I can't find integy slipper pads) - also got to buy exhaust gasket (as the one its got is ruined and fuel is spluttering out. So still got bit to buy to make it working completely. But am trying to do a brushed to brushless conversion on a ftx carnage so got money going on both cars atm. Let's just say money's leaving quicker than it comes in lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 I think there's a flowchart somewhere for setting up the nitro engines does anyone know where this can be found? I have got it working like explained above but it won't just idle still it wants to move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitro-Guy69 Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 try this maybe http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/ (hope i can post this link, it was already poste on here) if it wants to run away when it starts i think your idle is to high (some1 put me right if im wrong) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 try this maybe http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/ (hope i can post this link, it was already poste on here) if it wants to run away when it starts i think your idle is to high (some1 put me right if im wrong) Cheers mate literally found that last night and read the whole article will try it later or over the weekend. I am looking at a new pull start and one way bearing but whilst looking on ebay I found genuine hpi pullstart but it says this "This pullstart has a 12mm Hex and will not fit the new G3.0-HO, F3.5-V2 and F4.6-V2 Series Engine with 14mm Hex." How do I know what mine is? Do I just measure one corner to opposite corner and see if it is 12mm or 14mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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