turtletom100 Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 I have received a leopard brushless motor for my carnage but before I go ahead and do it there is a couple of questions Can I use my heatsink still and if so do I go ahead and stick the thermal pad on to the brushless motor? Is there a special way to make sure the pinion and spur gear line up? I am a bit of a noob to the electric scene. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Don't use the heatsink, provided you are geared correctly, it won't be required. As for 'lining up', I think you are referring to setting the mesh correctly, between spur and pinion? Use a thin strip of paper, place between the two gears, tighten up the motor screws and pull the paper out. It should pull through without tearing/binding, leaving a 1-2mm gap between the spur and pinion. If too tight/loose, adjust the motor screws accordingly. Personally, I do it by eye, then once screws are tightened, hold the pinny steady, then rock the spur back and forth, if it moves 1-2mm, all good to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Don't use the heatsink, provided you are geared correctly, it won't be required.As for 'lining up', I think you are referring to setting the mesh correctly, between spur and pinion?Use a thin strip of paper, place between the two gears, tighten up the motor screws and pull the paper out. It should pull through without tearing/binding, leaving a 1-2mm gap between the spur and pinion. If too tight/loose, adjust the motor screws accordingly.Personally, I do it by eye, then once screws are tightened, hold the pinny steady, then rock the spur back and forth, if it moves 1-2mm, all good to go Cheers for replying, so with brushless there is no need for the heatsink? How do I k ow if the gearing is set up correctly? And yes I think lining up (the gold small pinion from the motor and the big plastic spur gear) I think I will have to try using the paper method just to be safe lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 You shouldn't require the heatsink, as in, if the motor is running at such a temperature to require one, there is another issue to address: in this instance, over gearing. Your Carnage came rtr, with a gear ratio set by the manufacturer to suit the stock set up fitted. You are now into the dark and murky world of taking that ok, but could be better stocker and breathing new life into it, and that generally involves more than 'just' sticking a different set up into it.... Try the stock gears, do some speed runs for a few minutes, stop, and stick your finger on the motor. If it immediately blisters and hurts, then your motor is too hot, and you will want to be dropping a couple of teeth on the pinny. Conversely, should it be warm to the touch (ie 5 seconds of pain free, touch) then that suggests gearing is ok, PROVIDED the ESC is cool also....if both are cool, then you will be able to increase pinny size by a tooth or two. Remember, electrickery generates heat, so packs, ESC and motor will have an operating temp, a correctly set up system will have acceptable temps on all, with no hotspots. I do suggest picking up an I/r temp gun, as it makes the checking process very simple and accurate, and you may want an extra pinny or two; rw racing from MS are the ones to get Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 You shouldn't require the heatsink, as in, if the motor is running at such a temperature to require one, there is another issue to address: in this instance, over gearing.Your Carnage came rtr, with a gear ratio set by the manufacturer to suit the stock set up fitted.You are now into the dark and murky world of taking that ok, but could be better stocker and breathing new life into it, and that generally involves more than 'just' sticking a different set up into it....Try the stock gears, do some speed runs for a few minutes, stop, and stick your finger on the motor. If it immediately blisters and hurts, then your motor is too hot, and you will want to be dropping a couple of teeth on the pinny.Conversely, should it be warm to the touch (ie 5 seconds of pain free, touch) then that suggests gearing is ok, PROVIDED the ESC is cool also....if both are cool, then you will be able to increase pinny size by a tooth or two.Remember, electrickery generates heat, so packs, ESC and motor will have an operating temp, a correctly set up system will have acceptable temps on all, with no hotspots.I do suggest picking up an I/r temp gun, as it makes the checking process very simple and accurate, and you may want an extra pinny or two; rw racing from MS are the ones to get Cheers for the detailed reply well I went to convert from brushed to brushless last night managed to strip everything out and set up the new motor with my controller (says do this without pinion on). Come 5 fit the brushless into the truck and I can't remove the pinion from the stock motor (the grub screw is ruined) so I have ordered a pinion to fix on to the new motor but found out that it doesn't come with a grub screw. The pi ion is just the standard 17t pinion. What size grub do I need I think it will be m3 bur not sure on the length of it? I will get it fitted and then feel the motor and esc after a run. If all feels cool I will upgrade to a bigger pinion if this is recommended but for time being would be nice to just get it working (i couldn't be bothered to align the pinion to the spur with the brushed motor) Basically the main thing for the minute I'd fi ding out the correct size of grub screw for the standard 17t pinion. :-(Also I will be purchasing a heat gun ad they can be picked up for under a tenner on eBay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Grub screws are around 3-4mm long iirc http://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-3x3mm-hardened-grub-screws-12-/rc-car-products/373354 Hardened is what you're best fitting, less chance of rounding. Use a drop of blue threadlock, allowing 12-24 hours to cure. If you're using the stock hex keys that came with your truck, bin them, and invest in a set of eds, or at least, a 1.5mm for grub screws; cheap tools can round out hexes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtletom100 Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 Grub screws are around 3-4mm long iirchttp://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-3x3mm-hardened-grub-screws-12-/rc-car-products/373354Hardened is what you're best fitting, less chance of rounding. Use a drop of blue threadlock, allowing 12-24 hours to cure. If you're using the stock hex keys that came with your truck, bin them, and invest in a set of eds, or at least, a 1.5mm for grub screws; cheap tools can round out hexes... I have bought some 3mm and some 4mm Grub screws. And I haven't got hardened coming I have got the standard one coming so will probably get it fitted then order the hardened and fit that instead. Wow I didn't realise blue threadlock took that long to dry. I have bought a set of hex drivers chrome vanadium as I didn't even receive a single tool in the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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