nr73 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 ...and I absolutely love it!! I bought a Maverick Scout off sean-vrs which turned up earlier today. Managed to source a few rocks and stones to make a hasty rockbed in the back garden, and have been trialling it ever since. I've removed the bumpers which seem to just get in the way and catch on anything in their path, instant improvement. Might do the shock mod soon and see how it goes from there. The best bit is I can dial down the throttle and my kids can have a go. The main reason I bought this rather than a Monster Truck is because it can be used in the back garden, low speeds, shouldn't break much and the kids can make obstacle courses for it. One question: I saw a video on YouTube where a bloke was running an old vintage Chevy Blazer body on it. How would I go about getting hold of something like that, and should any 1/10 body fit? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_bench10 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 How does a scout reach speeds to fly that high ? Never seem to get mine to lift of the ground loll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Well it did need a fair old run-up....about half a mile or so... [emoji6][emoji1][emoji1] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53HRA Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Crawled up the conservatory did it? Getting hold of an old chevy body would be best going down the used route on a forum or eBay.I'm assuming you're referring to the old Tamiya Chevy/Clod buster shell? If so this came in 2 versions;The original with the chevy badged grill (expensive and collectible now!),or the re-released version slightly cheaper as it's non badged. Alot of crawlers have smaller shells compared to a 1/10 scaler,and if you decide going for something like a Land Rover shell (example),it'll make the wheels look to big and the shell really small (unrealistic!) Then you'll get an itch to convert the crawler into a scaler For that reason,i would suggest looking at 1/10 crawler bodies instead and if you want to keep the original position of posts,ensure the width of the shell end to end is wide enough to accommodate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the advice I put it on the gutter and it crawled all the way up no problem. I quite like the green Chevy body in this video: MAVERICK SCOUT CHEVY part 1: http://youtu.be/8Q1533t8_V4 The only similar item I can find is a pro line body. Edited August 12, 2014 by Neil Robinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Also search for Parma bodies. They do a Clod Buster and also Blackfoot bodies and some other trucks and then there is also Tamiya of course. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Will do thanks John. Ran it some more this morning, and I think a few mods are in order. I'm going to weight the wheels, and look at moving the battery lower in the chassis. Is there anything that can be done for that torque twist that doesn't involve lowering the ride height? I've seen the mod with fuel hose on the shocks but doesn't that result in losing shock travel? I removed the bumpers but can see that the housing, steering arms and steering servo may cop for some damage, so I plan on making up a small ally bash plate using the same mount holes but keeping it as tight as possible to avoid introducing another clearance problem. Having a ball with this so far though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 (edited) Yes you can't beat the Scout for the money. Great buy. Adjustable alloy shocks a bit shorter than stock help with the torque twist. The fuel tube mod does help but better shocks are the way to go. You can get rid of the stock battery tray and fit Losi Comp Crawler battery and receiver trays down inside the chassis. Here's a link to the Scout I just sold that will show you what can be done. One of the biggest improvements you can make is to fit decent tyres such as the Hot Body Rovers. You don't realise how poor the stock tyres are until you get some decent ones on there.http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/196091-s-o-l-d-scout-crawler/ Just bought some Turnigy Nano-Tech 2200mah LiPos intended for Traxxas that are shorter than standard and will fit the Losi tray with some minor trimming. John Edited August 13, 2014 by johninderby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 (edited) Wow you really went to town on yours didn't you!! Those tyres in the photos look like a larger diameter than stock, were they? With that setup did you run into any ground clearance issues or did the taller tyres compensate for that (assuming they were taller than stock obviously) Any reason for me to be concerned about the servo out front getting bashed on stuff? Edited August 13, 2014 by Neil Robinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 The tyres were a bit bigger but not that much. Ground clearance was similar to stock despite using shorter shocks due to the tyres but also having bent lower suspension links at both ends helped. The new body was fitted much lower down which makes it look a lot lower. Don't know why they fitted the stock body so high above the chassis. The exposed servo isn't a problem as you're not going very fast so you're not going to hit anything too hard. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 (edited) Been fiddling tonight in an attempt to improve it further. I have some lead weights on order for the wheels, and I know the tyres and poor but I thought I would tweak the setup a little. Did the shock mod on the fronts to see what difference it makes. Haven't done the back, mainly due to lack of time but now it's half done it seems to have moved the weight bias forward and is better for it. I also noticed multiple mount points for the axle tie rods (I think that's what they're called but stand to be corrected). I moved those to the innermost mount hole and that seems to have lowered it by around 5mm front and rear too. The result of the tweaking so far is that it will now go almost vertical before it topples over backwards. Shame it lacks the grip to do much with it! Tried various places for the battery though and, short of starting to hack away at things I haven't found a more suitable position. Side of the chassis plate makes it crab a little, and I don't like the looks of it mounted behind the front axle. Is it possible to buy a more compact 7.2v pack than the usual 6-cell NiMh? It might mean a sacrificing a bit of runtime perhaps, but I'm getting a couple of hours from an 1800mah cell so that wouldn't be a problem! Edited August 18, 2014 by Neil Robinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghazghul Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 The tyrea improve over time, I was amazed by difference between a used set and new. However some proper tyres like HB rovers are another world. You can't beat a LIPO battery...but if you want to stay nimh then three cells each side of servo on front axle works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Well...more work done tonight. Tyre weights arrived so that's 400g in there (more in the fronts than the rears). Rear shock spacers added, lugs cut off the axle for clearance and the hubs to increase steering lock. Need to modify the links for more steering clearance now. Then will finally have to sort battery tray out to get the weight lower. Haven't tested it yet to see if it's improved matters, might have a late night play in the rock garden shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 More work again tonight. The changes I made yesterday and generally seem to have made quite a difference. Built a little rock trial course by the shed and I was surprised when it made it up a 75 degree step I'd made from wedging a large flat rock on its edge. I think the wheel weights have made the biggest difference. Stripped the diffs and gearbox tonight and as predicted by some on here they were bone dry so I used some low stiction fork grease on all the gears. Tried relocating the battery to lengthways towards the rear Axel but it loses it's climbing ability. Still got loads of torque twist too despite the shock fuel pipe mod. Oh well. As things stand overall it seems much better than stock so I don't think my efforts have been wasted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 Had a chance to have a proper session with the Mav today. Built a little (harder) course in the yard. Despite 10mm fuel tubing in each shock and addition of wheel weights I was still getting bad torque twist. I thought stuff it and added two cable ties around the shock above the collar, voila no more torque twist. It can also go much more vertical before it tips over despite battery being in the stock position. Overall the mods so far have worked well although I think tyres may be next on the list. I can also see why people move their links inboard as they have got caught up a few times so I might do that next. Mucho fun so far though, it's quite impressive now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearsdad71 Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 I'm a newbie and considering one of these Sounds like a good starting point from peoples comments here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 I'm a newbie and considering one of these Sounds like a good starting point from peoples comments here Yep I'd say so. Great run times, doesn't break, and you can have all sorts of fun in your back yard with it without needing half a football pitch to run it on. It's also very easy to modify, and a few easy free mods will make a huge difference. Initially it lacked grip and was too top heavy, now I've sorted that its fantastic. It's surprising just what it will get over now, plus I've learned a lot so far about how to get the best out of it. The tyres have got much better with plenty of use on them too. Very happy with mine, just about to starts work on the 1970's Chevy truck body that arrived for it earlier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearsdad71 Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Yep I'd say so. Great run times, doesn't break, and you can have all sorts of fun in your back yard with it without needing half a football pitch to run it on. It's also very easy to modify, and a few easy free mods will make a huge difference. Initially it lacked grip and was too top heavy, now I've sorted that its fantastic. It's surprising just what it will get over now, plus I've learned a lot so far about how to get the best out of it. The tyres have got much better with plenty of use on them too. Very happy with mine, just about to starts work on the 1970's Chevy truck body that arrived for it earlier... NIce one Neil i like the upgradeability (if that is a real word) and a project which i can do as and when i have the cash Should look awesome with the truck body too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 You can't beat it for the money. Although it's not in the same league as the more expensive crawlers, and you can see where they cut corners (diffs, gearbox) the most important thing is it is good enough to do some proper crawling. As it's such a simple design that makes it really easy to modify. Many have put all the Scout mechanical bits on a scale type chassis. It's one of those RCs that I have no hesitation in recommending. John 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Definitely John. It's simple enough that a numpty like me can strip it and rebuild it easily enough. Tonight's garage exploits - body mounts fabricated. The Chevy body I bought turned out to have a shorter wheelbase than the website indicates but I don't mind, it means there's no overhang front or rear to get in the way when crawling. It does mean the body needed to be lifted though for clearance on articulation. No probs though, I always was a fan of huge lifted trucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 That'll look really good when it's painted. Yes one of my pet hates is manufacturers of body shells that refuse to give you the actual wheelbase and just give you the it fits this rubbish. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Yep, it makes it awkward to find a body that will fit if they don't give accurate measurements. The Maverick wheelbase is 320mm, the Chevy was supposed to be 310 but is more like 250! This is going to be two tone metallic blue and silver, hoping to get it all masked off and started tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightymini-5 Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 looking good keep the pictures comming .... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 A Beetle or Jeep body will fit the Scout. Here's my old Scout with a Pro-Line Beetle body and a Pro-Line Jeep body. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nr73 Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Too late now... :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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