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fg monster refurb. (diff questions now)


RCbutcher

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My chassis looks tired I wanted to clean and polish it but don't have a drill and ive been told painting it should look very good. Would others agree or is it bound to fail if not what steps should I follow paint use and any protective finishes.

I will probably want to do the alloy side rails too.

If all else is a fail then ill carbon wrap the thing lol.

Metalic red or metalic orange would be my choice.

Thanks.

Edited by RCbutcher
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For a shelf queen then yes, if it suits you.

 

If it's a car you run on a regular basis then I wouldn't bother.

 

If you're going to the trouble of colouring the alloy parts, annodising would be best in my opinion.

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I will use it mate it just looks scruffy as it is and want it to look nice it'll only go on grass tho im sure mayb look at x bike skin material and see if a wrap can be made. Another guy got one and it looks great.

My fg chassis discoloured and scratched up alot. I can ask a friend about getting it powder coated tho he works at a place that does it vut might just be industral colours

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True back to mayb polishing it then. Ive heard a product called "blue magic metal polish cream" would work really well I think its for car wheels and you just rub it in with a cloth. I think ill clean it with oven cleaner and see how it goes ive done a small patch its clean but dulled down. I only let the spray sit a minute tho cos of corrosion. Worst case I'll buy a polished chassis off eBay for 25 or so. This chassis is straight so that's a bonus lol. I know its polishing a purd but its what I do with rough looking rcs lol. Plus store them indoors so like everything to be cleaned then it's easy to keep on top of after runs.

Im all for alternatives and tips tho.

.

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When I get a drill ill give it some more. I think stripping it down is super quick and easy its finding all the bad screws and bearings that's the issue lol. Im at the rear diff now but it has a bad bearing both bearing walls are missing the other bearing was good until I wd40 in it now its loose. Mayb reoiling that one will work out.

Then im just cleaning the plastics with some other

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Also the whole polishing thing only took like 20mins both sides. It wasn't a stupidly long boring process just bam result. Rub on 30sec hard clean cloth rub off for 30sec. You mayaswel get some and just try it on the bottom. I did clean it with oven cleaner first tho which might of helped.

Is there anyway I could reduce the scratches it has with any products?

Edited by RCbutcher
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That's a beauty I will get some fine sand paper and have a go at it properly now. Plus get a drill and polishing wheel to try. I need a new drill anyway tho.

His chassis is like a mirror mine could never be like that.

I liked his wheels too but don't think I'm putting much money into this fg it's passed that era so far I have

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Most prefer to consider alloy large/small engine mounts and also the diff mount and gear carrier not as optional, but essential.

The plastic has be known to flex a bit too much when hammering.

 

Al.

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I did all the rear end in alloy on my marder mate didn't affect anything expect cost a lot lol. I want to be wise with this one if possible.

I think I read some people get away with just using the large alloy engine mount too if true I may go with that but have 2 or 3 sets of plastic engine mounts.

I'm happy I accidentally ended up on ddm site today I never would have guess some parts are cheaper to buy new than in tatty condition off ebay. Crazy.

A dog bone is

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Oh it was diff output cups we was talking about on ebay I saw some new on free pawn that have a step in them so I asked if the straight skinny cups are clone parts. But it sounds like the chunkier stepped cups are an improved part or from a newer model mayb.

My diff cups have been bitten a bit but my marder cups had chunks missing from them and ran well so I'm not too fussed.

Unless I need new cups to use this spare diff gear set I think are genuine fg hoping my diff will turn smoothly.

With the stinterd gears there's lots of play in there and it's fairly hard to turn the cups by hand. But my diff cups don't fit the straight diff gears they just turn inside the grooves. Idk what to do with that atm ill be gutted if I buy new cups and they don't grab either or the diff stays stiff.

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You can see how loose the gears are but more shims make it bind more. It turns one way better than the other.

20140825_102510_zps4ecfzsdc.jpg

Here's the spare diff gears I have I think are genuine and look pretty fresh too.

20140824_080820_zpsmohwibyu.jpg

But when inserted they spin freely not grabbing the cups. So I'm hoping genuine cups presuming these are clone will sort that.

20140825_102844_zpsfsswj8hu.jpg

Any thoughts ideas to help?

I also have a ton of clone parts I want to identify and sell if anyone has had a smart tec big foot I think there from that but not sure.

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Sorted on the diff cups I hope mate. I got a set of the new stepped type for 24.50. More than I wanted to pay tho lol. Seen as there's a brand new one for the same price but only one in stock.

There are other bits I need tho like dog bones I hope not but but it could turn out my whole rear drive is clone. I hope not tho.

It's only the stinterd gears throwing me off my diff cups fitted are ok with just a little chipping on them but won't fit the straight gears. I hope the new pair will and that's it tho.

One of my dog bones ends Is half worn tho but ddm sells those cheaper than ebay at $10 each plus $5 post. So mayb

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