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Traxxas Slash 2WD Ongoing refurbishment


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Hi all

Well here we have it, my Traxxas Slash project.

I got it with a busted gearbox and a very tired shell. The long term plan is to try and get it up to scratch and then get a new shell, but that will have to wait until funds allow.

14856463844_2e182ffd4f.jpgP1030309 by markswebpages, on Flickr

14672294329_138d5314c6.jpgP1030311 by markswebpages, on Flickr

14858899085_b5dd093d91.jpgP1030312 by markswebpages, on Flickr

14835923736_bed53165c5.jpgP1030313 by markswebpages, on Flickr

14672314738_702e5d55fd.jpgP1030310 by markswebpages, on Flickr

So having a look over it it really could do with a complete rebuild because of the gearbox, but also because there are lots of odd screws and bit's that aren't quite right (I'm also a bit OCD about using the right screws and fixings). So I partially stripped it to see what was what.

14835920286_86ce8bbf7e.jpgP1030314 by markswebpages, on Flickr

14858887375_a79088d23d.jpgP1030315 by markswebpages, on Flickr

The news wasn't good, all of the contents of the gearbox was toast, but I wanted to use it on the beach next week (while it was still a bit scruffy) so an order was put in with Modelsport for enough stuff to get it going in theory.

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Yeah the lcg chassis looks and sounds great but in black. My sla2sh was std when I got it and fell over or got stuck quite alot. I fitted the proline pro trac , badlands and some losi 8 shocks and after that it could turn around at half throttle so the lcg chassis will definitely help it stay on its wheels. Adding the protrac with lcg should make it even better. I miss my slash it was my first elec refurb and upgrade. With a hpi 4000kv flux motor it tried to back flip on 3s only stopped by the rear bumper. Ide really like my next brushless to be a slash 4x4 and get all the bits to convert it to whatever the mood wants like project chimera on YouTube. The slash wins most versatile rc in my book. From drift car to truggy and all between.

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Yeah the lcg chassis looks and sounds great but in black. My sla2sh was std when I got it and fell over or got stuck quite alot. I fitted the proline pro trac , badlands and some losi 8 shocks and after that it could turn around at half throttle so the lcg chassis will definitely help it stay on its wheels. Adding the protrac with lcg should make it even better. I miss my slash it was my first elec refurb and upgrade. With a hpi 4000kv flux motor it tried to back flip on 3s only stopped by the rear bumper. Ide really like my next brushless to be a slash 4x4 and get all the bits to convert it to whatever the mood wants like project chimera on YouTube. The slash wins most versatile rc in my book. From drift car to truggy and all between.

the only thing is that the slash needs a lot spent on it out the box to make it any good
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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah the lcg chassis looks and sounds great but in black. My sla2sh was std when I got it and fell over or got stuck quite alot. I fitted the proline pro trac , badlands and some losi 8 shocks and after that it could turn around at half throttle so the lcg chassis will definitely help it stay on its wheels. Adding the protrac with lcg should make it even better. I miss my slash it was my first elec refurb and upgrade. With a hpi 4000kv flux motor it tried to back flip on 3s only stopped by the rear bumper. Ide really like my next brushless to be a slash 4x4 and get all the bits to convert it to whatever the mood wants like project chimera on YouTube. The slash wins most versatile rc in my book. From drift car to truggy and all between.

It's going to take a while as budget is tight but thanks for some of those ideas. The LCG chassis is high on the list as it's definitely a but high, however I'm worried that it might lose some of it's ability to soak up the bumps on slightly rough ground!

 

the only thing is that the slash needs a lot spent on it out the box to make it any good

Harsh, but probably true. Then again I guess unless you spend allot on a kit from new to begin with you could say that about any mainstream kit, the Turnigy SCT I had before was worse, but then it was less than half the price of the Slash. The parts for the slash are cheap and the options are endless that's for sure.

 

 

Lcg conversion works really good, is it the traxxas 17mm conversion axle kit u have on there? It work all good with clearance etc? Cheers

As above LCG kit is on the list. The conversion to 17mm was one of the reasons I wanted this as I thought it would be good because I could share wheels and tyres with my Losi 8ight. However they rub and bind everywhere (I'm sure that's why the shell is so knackered) and I have tried to trim the shell back to test because obviously the old shell is scrap anyway but it still rubs despite cutting quite a bit off. I don't think for one second that with the LCG chassis having any kind of shell that covers the wheels is an option (currently looking at the proline beetle shells). They don't appear to have done the hub bearings much good either (but until I replace them and see how they last I won't know for sure). I have a set of fastrax bullseye's that I'm going to get a set of hex's and try and see how different it is.

Edited by Markswebpages
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So having stripped it this is what the conents of the gearbox looked like.

14672649110_041f392862.jpgIMG_20140808_144511 by markswebpages, on Flickr

14839591526_6671d6bf62.jpgP1030316 by markswebpages, on Flickr

14675944108_a2a6c1c389.jpgP1030318 by markswebpages, on Flickr

 

I wanted to get it back together for a trip to the beach as I was going to the coast and i thought if i was going to risk getting it covered in salty sand i may as well ruin the already knackered hub bearings.

 

So an order for enough parts to get it going was placed with MS and arrived the next day

14672257019_d797a53251.jpgIMG_20140808_131927 by markswebpages, on Flickr

 

I stupidly had broken the roll pin on the input shaft so I had to replace that and also the nylon bushes in the steering where knackered so i ordered some proper bearings for that too.

 

New diff assembled

14672651590_86e944114e.jpgIMG_20140808_144518 by markswebpages, on Flickr

 

Didn't get any other pictures as I just wanted to get it back together. Alas this was almost scuppered when I discovered that all of the bearings where completely goosed. Luckily my local RC shop had some but only one pair, but I also had some left over from something else so luckily I managed to rebuild the box with all new bearings.

 

So here it is with my gear in it Turnigy Trackstar 80a ESC and 3520KV Motor.

14862201182_b24241512a.jpgP1030323 by markswebpages, on Flickr

14675919009_f339236978.jpgP1030321 by markswebpages, on Flickr

 

I took it to the beach and other then the fan on the ESC cutting out it was fine, was good fun that's for sure. Rolled quite easily and I couldn't really lower it as then the tyres bound virtually all the time (another reason to consider going back to 12mm). I also need to look at the gearing as it's got loads of top end but could possible do with a bit more acceleration, although this could also be to do with the ESC settings which I've never played with (got a control box just before I went).

 

However there is a long list of stuff that will need sorting.

 

It needs

  • Loads of screws and fixings as there are allot of random screws of different types holding it together.
  • New gearbox casing as threads as stripped (it holds together enough to use but isn't great)
  • All new bearings outside of the gearbox.
  • Steering servo rebuild
  • Steering servo saver
  • Steering arms and ball joints
  • Top links and ball joints
  • New shell
  • New shocks (they odd at the moment but working)
  • Possible LCG chassis
  • Possible Conversion back to 12mm hubs

I also need to look at the rear anti roll bar as the conversion seems to consist of the bar being under two self tapping screws which restrict its movement and as a result introduce some resistance to the suspension movement.

 

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Been looking at the beetle shell as I want the wheels to stick out of the shell, as every bit of mud and stones etc just flies inside, also thought of using some kinda savage shell and they should be similar wheelbase but a lot thinner to help keep the inside clean with the wheels outside

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Been looking at the beetle shell as I want the wheels to stick out of the shell, as every bit of mud and stones etc just flies inside, also thought of using some kinda savage shell and they should be similar wheelbase but a lot thinner to help keep the inside clean with the wheels outside

Yeah I'll have to do some homework I think, no rush as the shell I have is just about usable and i want to sort the mechanical stuff first.

 

The proline beetle shells look nice but are very expensive :omgblinky: but the quality seems very good (i have a proline shell on my Losi).

 

I think some of the decision will depend on what I do wheel and chassis wise. I also miss the mud flaps on the back that the Turnigy had but they are extra bits on the slash, I did like the look of it with the SCT shell though!

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Yep they are rpm bumpers and mud flaps. You have to buy them separately though. The bumpers are really strong and have taken a lot of abuse from me. The body is a pro line f150. As just rolling said look at the lcg chassis it transforms the trucks handling completely.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's turning into a bit of a ,mission this rebuild as it's allot more knackered than i expected, there is play in all the ball joints, the dampers are odd and leaky and every other screw I undo seems to have a stripped thread. But when you buy stuff cheap and second hand I guess it's to be expected.

 

New bearings for all for corners on order :)

 

Just hoping that the hubs aren't as knackered as the gearbox, but hey it's all apart of the fun and I get almost as much enjoyment out of fixing it as i do using it.

 

I'll would like to order all the missing/wrong screws and fixings but I'm going to hold off until I know if I'll need bits for the hubs.

 

Thinking about trying to rebuild the steering servo is there seems to be some play in it, has anyone done this or is it not worth while (I.E. should I just buy a cheap replacement and accept it may not last long)? i ultimately would like to buy something a bit better but again being on a budget will mean it could be a while before i can unless i pick up a bargain.

Edited by Markswebpages
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If you need screws pm me I bet I could sort you a full or near enough full stainless kit out from my screw box I have tons of traxxas sizes.

I did my slash the only screws I remember I couldn't change was 1 or 2 on the gearbox.

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Thanks for the help and offers every one.

Got the bearings from Saabmania2 from this very forum, very pleased with them and great value for money.

The old bearings where a bit knackered! But at least that's them all replaced so bar the spur and the drive shafts that's all the moving parts replaced.

Maybe I'll do some homework on the screws if stainless aren't such a good idea. But it would be nice if it at least had the right screws in the right places.

Next on the list is all the ball joints, a matching set of dampers and change the stupid rear bumper mount that the sides underneath come unclipped and make a great grass collector for the RPM item.

Then I'd really like to get a new shell because it looks very sad with the old one on!

Edited by Markswebpages
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  • 2 weeks later...

So one month later here we are again with a knackered diff and idle gear!

 

Seriously losing any love I had for this buggy, I can't believe after quite literally half a dozen goes it's eaten a gearbox again, It's only running a 3520KV Trackstar motor a 2s PiLo so nothing amazing and I'm not exactly hard on my buggies compared to some.

 

So I'm going to rebuild it again, but this time with a new gearbox housing as i read that sometimes a small amount of miss alignment in an old casing can cause this failure.

15061852828_7ee4c5f903.jpgIMG_20140915_162818 by markswebpages, on Flickr

15225409236_ba83795792.jpgIMG_20140915_162822 by markswebpages, on Flickr

 

One of the motor bolts has cunningly rounded already so i'll have to cut it out with a dremmel.

 

This is currently in the for sale section of anyone is interested, i think it end up on eBay as i don't think i'll use it again for fear of busting the gearbox again!

 

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Gearbox apart again (there is a lack of grease because i took it apart already to see what was wrong).

15062183027_20d791af44.jpgIMG_20140915_170306 by markswebpages, on Flickr

 

The repeat offenders

15062234370_93e81caca7.jpgIMG_20140915_172001 by markswebpages, on Flickr

15245817041_5fd3ef1d49.jpgIMG_20140915_171950 by markswebpages, on Flickr

 

So out with the old and in with the new :)

15245767261_baa1e3be46.jpgIMG_20140915_171442 by markswebpages, on Flickr

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Very strange, I've been running a 2400kv 1:8 system on 3S in my 4x4 and the diffs seem to be holding up fine (touch wood!)

 

I hope your new casing solves the issue fella!

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