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Lels Sakura D3


lel-95

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been after a drifter for a while so i went and bought a Sakura D3. I didn't want anything mega expensive incase i couldn't get the hang of drifting, but for the price this chassis is really excellent :)

 

at the moment its a bit of a mashup, the electronics are stolen from my axial SCX10 so they aren't ideal, luckily i use brushed drift motors in my axial so it sort of works albeit with a slow servo. A sensored brushless system has been ordered and should be here tomorrow. 

 

few piccys of how it stands at the moment

 

0F338282-7341-4923-AA68-11CD98453A6E_zps

 

gash wheels will be going soon and replaced with some 7mm offset rims to fill the arches a bit

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I wanted the NSX but it was out of stock at the time! I wanted to do a Marlboro paint job and have a bit of an ayrton senna tribute shell :)

They're very detailed but a bit thin, I can't see it lasting too long but it should be fine for a drifter

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Cool, they're really nice body shells! I bought the Honda NSX for my touring car but not sure if I'm going to bother using it or not.

 

That could prove interesting on a tourer haha i know the Ride cup GT guys love to use the honda NSX but i cant remember who its made by 

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Sweet, what setup are you running? also what servo if you don't mind me asking?

Also, I am always intrigued, why did you remove the rear 'diffuser'? There are so many mixed feelings about it.

 

I am tempted to shift my battery back to sit on it after seeing the Root961 rear diffuser battery mount, the main issue is getting a body shell to cover it. 

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It's a hobbyking x-car 120a esc and turnigy trackstar 13.5t sensored motor. The servo is an alturn high torque from my crawler until I get something faster for the sakura.

I'm not a huge fan of the diffuser, my shell has one built into the back bumper so 2 diffusers might look a bit cheesy. All I want now is some rims, tyres and rear arm mounts to reduce the toe in

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this servo isn't ideal but its adequate for now, I'm sure i'll have to upgrade as i learn to drift better :)

 

messed about with the suspension tonight, dialed out some camber and reduced the toe out on the front, much more controllable now! Also makes the wheels sit better in the shell 

 

FED9485E-AA6B-49CD-A063-EC0B07B4D5EF_zps

 

27E88FBF-053F-4EE9-BFF6-E01043170876_zps

 

cut out the grill to let a bit air into the motor, might stick some fine mesh in eventually 

 

CD2466D7-1683-4C5C-B2C0-AFDC6594535E_zps

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went for a little drift this morning and noticed i had massive chatter from the front CVD's, took them out and noticed they hadn't even been assembled correctly. The pin wasn't even pushed through both holes 

 

85C50312-9A55-4592-A994-5FA8F9B9B5AF_zps

 

Also noticed i had cracked 2 hex's, no idea how this happened but i've replaced them with aluminium ones now 

 

042F1325-EC1E-4003-9889-A1035429AC97_zps

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The cracked hexs could be from them being rather soft plastic. I found under power on and power off the pin was able to move and cause damage to the hex over time.

Did you build it :P or buy it as a kit? Were they greased? It does look like it?!

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Throw a little bit of black grease on them (or any preferred driveline grease). It will help it move around and stop friction pushing and pulling the pin. I know. Check the grub screw has lock tight on it as well. I put the grease in the pin well and wiggle it around a lot. Like of a lot of RTRs some parts that should be greased just aren't. I just guess its because they might sit in the warehouse for a while and get drifty/dusty so then it creates abrasion when in use. Although I am sure you already know this. I figure I would put it just incase other people read this thread and don't!

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