hokuspokus Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Ok i was out in the workshop tinkering at the car for the kid its a himoto sun fire,when i start it its not idling just keeps going and i have turn knobs on the control but i wont slow down,how can i stop this,then there is times i take the ignitor of the glow plug and it cuts out,if i loosen of the plug it leaks out fuel. graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clogger Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 I had similar problems last weekend with a second hand Tomahawk I'd just bought, sometimes it would stall but most times the revs would just keep climbing. I solved it when I thought maybe it's electrical and I checked the servo, with the throttle and brake linkage removed it was very erratic, moving randomly left and right, replaced it with a spare and everything is fine now (well it will be when I find somewhere big enough to run it!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 Thanks clogger,i gave up on the 1st himoto tried the second one had it started then it was running very fast,now i cant get it started its not flooded as i checked that etc,so i dont no what it is with these cars is it because maybe there a poor make or what can it be,am thinking of leaving the 3 of them into the shop and getting someone in there to break the engines in for me as i am having a nightmare with these. graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clogger Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 I'm afraid I can't offer much more advice, this is my first nitro car and I haven't fully tuned it yet. All I can suggest is check the electrics by disconnecting the linkages and testing that both servos work correctly, if they do then if you have the original settings for the needles and linkages reset them, take the air filter off and operate the throttle to make sure it operates correctly from approx 1mm opening with no throttle to fully open at full throttle. Warm the engine with a hairdryer for a couple of minutes, turn the flywheel by hand to the point of least resistance, if the fuel isn't up to the carb the best way I've found is to remove the fuel line from the exhaust and blow down this tube (I use a length of aerial tube inserted into the fuel tubing so I'm not getting any fuel in my mouth) till the fuel reaches the carb, re-attach the fuel tube to the exhaust and try to start it as normal. Here's a link to what I've found to be a pretty good instruction for tuning http://radiocontrol.wikia.com/wiki/Nitro_engine_tuning hope it helps. My Thundertiger handbook recommends 1/4 turns of the needles compared to 1/16 turns in the linked instruction. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 I think i might go out and heat the engine up with the heat gun for a minute or two,it just seems as i am going around in circles with these cars,the kids are always at me to get them working,i might tell them to do it themselves lol going to look at the link you have sent and see what it can tell me cheers,Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clogger Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Be careful with the heat gun not to melt anything, hairdryer worked fine for me and no risk of melting bits (my car is 2nd hand so had already been broken in at least once though). I think the secret is to have a large open area and lots of patience when making the small tweaks. If the car is running at up to 60 mph for example then that's 1 mile a minute, allowing for braking and turning if you run at full throttle for 5 secs that's a distance of approx 1/10 mile or approximately the distance you walk in 1-1.5 mins, that's a large open space needed for tuning. I've got mine as far as I can on my drive and the cul-de-sac but I need more open space where I'm not afraid of hitting a curb with a little touch of the steering. Hope you get them sorted, you've probably thought of this but just in case, concentrate on one car and keep a record of the settings and tweaks you make. Hopefully you'll be able to transfer them to the other cars, they might each need little tweaks from there according to the slight variations in manufacture but at least they should be somewhere very close. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee page Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Have you tried your idle needle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 No never tried it,i will look for it and see what i need to all do,need to watch more videos on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 got the first car started but it wont slow down id say its going top speed while trying to break the engine in,i set the idle needle or whatever you call it,and the piston is nice and free its a himoto sun fire,are any of yous familiar with that and its controls,i tried turning buttons on it and pressing the throttle trim but nothing happens...anyone got any idea's what i can do? thanks graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clogger Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Just double check because I found that once the idle was adjusted moving the throttle could result in the gap changing, take the air filter off, turn on your transmitter then the car (don't start the engine we just need the electric bits). Look into the carb down the hole you took the filter off, is it still a 1mm opening? If you operate the trigger on your transmitter does the carb open fully? Release the trigger, does it return to a 1mm opening? Repeat this a couple of times to make sure it always opens and closes correct, whilst you're doing this you might as well check that your brake applies when you push the trigger. Assuming that the carb/servo/transmitter are all functioning correctly then you may need to adjust the idle to give a smaller gap than 1mm to bring the idle speed down. If you have a printer print off the document I linked previously (http://radiocontrol.wikia.com/wiki/Nitro_engine_tuning) and refer to that, note though that your idle screw may be in a different position as on my engine it sticks out in front of the carb. Turn the idle screw counter clockwise to close the gap, take it down to approx 0.5mm opening, try starting the engine. It may need a little manual throttle as you start it. If it won't start turn the idle screw about 1/16-1/8 turn clockwise and try again, if it starts and runs too fast at 0.5mm turn the idle screw about 1/16-1/8 of a turn further counter clockwise and try again. Repeat until it starts and stays running with the glow starter removed. If it's too slow it will stall when you remove the glow starter/starter box/roto-start, if it's too fast the wheels will be spinnig. Keep going, you'll get there in the end and you'll feel great then and your boys will be impressed that you did it. I was so happy when I got mine working and that was second hand with what turned out to be a defective throttle servo. She won't admit it but I'm sure even the wife was impressed because I did it without spending more money. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 When i got it started earlier the wheels were spinning like mad,really mind busting stuff this when its all new to you,i even need to get my own car through the second stage of the break-in,but i want to get the 3 boys cars going first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthoop Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I will reply here to the pm Hokuspokus. Most of your problems at the moment are probably more down to your inexperience rather than the quality of the cars....we all started somewhere and as I said before it is a tough hill at first. You could take them to the shop and they can make them work...but you will not learn anything and so as soon as something goes wrong or the weather changes you will be stuck again....the only thing I can say is "stick with it, it is not as complicated as it may seem"... There is more information on the internet than you could shake a stick at regarding tuning/running in/etc. Have a look at the tuning guide at the top of this forum section. If when you start the engine it is revving high.....then you can decrease the slide/idle gap (idle screw (anti-clock)) and/or richen the LSN (anti-clock). If there is not enough freeplay in the throttle linkage (link between servo and carb.) then you will only be able to reduce the idle/slide gap so far...and if you keep unscrewing the idle screw then it will stall when you press the brakes. Put it on the table...grab a beer/wine/favourite tipple (when the kids are off to bed) and have a good look at it all....take air filter off and turn transmitter and receiver on...operate throttle and brakes...adjust the knobs...etc...have a look to see what happens...look at videos/forums.......it can only be easy once the penny drops. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Very true what you say am not going to get experience if i take it to a shop,so i will go and tinker at it again in a bit once i cut the grass etc chores never stop lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 Rite am ready to give up on these cars,the car wont start now,its not flooded and the glow plug is glowing red,there is no blockage in the lines,i really dont no what the problem is with it,can someone guide me in the right line on what all to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoothybb Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Can you get a vid up so people can see/hear what's happening? Often helps diagnose the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clogger Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 If the glow plug is only glowing red it isn't getting hot enough. Is it glowing red when attached to the glow starter? If so, make sure the glow starter is charged/got good batteries then try it again, it should glow white. If it still doesn't glow white then use a spare plug or take one from one of the other cars. Here's a youtube video showing how to test it and what you should see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noCY53hy7bU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Its also worth noting that the plug can still glow out of the car and not work when it is in the car. If you are still breaking in it is possible to go through a couple of plugs whilst doing so. Get some spare plugs and try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 glow plugs are all spot on,but still cant get the thing started,its getting very frustrating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 What all do i have to do,the second car starts for a couple off seconds then stalls,i gave up on the first one so trying the second to see if the set-up on the second one then i can try to look at the settings on it and apply it to the first car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clogger Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 How did you get on? Any joy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 Never went near it today,must have a bug had to come home from work early,might leave it into the shop tomorrow and see if they will sort it for me,tell is a thunder tiger eb4 s3 any good,i can get one for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clogger Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 I don't know anything about the eb4. My nitro car is a Thunder Tiger Tomahawk BX, they look similar, maybe the eb4 is the more up to date version. I've only had mine a couple of weeks now and it was second hand so it had already been run in. I'm still in the process of tuning it, I didn't realise how fast it would be so I've run out of space on my drive and cul-de-sac! One little squeeze of the trigger and it's 100ft away and that's with very little tuning. Took it up on to some waste ground today and within 1 minute the manifold had fallen off that was the end of that. The car seems well designed and built, what problems I've had can be put down to it's age and previous owner hopefully. About to go look for a screw to re-attach the manifold and hopefully I'll be back out with it tomorrow. As far as I'm aware Thunder Tiger have a pretty good reputation and parts are quite easily available. Is that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 is yours that fast,thats what ya want out off them,cant wait to get mine and the boys up and blasting about no its second hand,i asked ones in the chat room about the tiger they said it is one of the worst out there,but i read about the tomahawk bx and they seem a far more superior and a lot better car than the tiger,so i think i'll give it a miss, but will keep a look out for another decent type to smash up lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoothybb Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 (edited) Ime, it's a gamble buying 2nd hand, engine wise mainly. I'm very cautious now unless it's a trusted seller and they confirm it's not really been run much. Even then, it could go pop quite soon. The last few I've bought, I bought rollers and added a new engine. You at least know it's been run in right and not abused. However that does leave you to run-in and run-in a new engine which, tbh, gets easier as you do more. Saying that, I bought a smartech a few years ago as spares because "the chip was broken". They meant tx crystal! Engine was fine in normal use but I was planning on upgrading it so ran it to just past the limit and smoked it. My fault so it was still a bargain even if it was a smartech (30 quid cheap). I saw this earlier but not sure how easy to get parts anymore. Not as good as the later models but looks clean enough, just needs engine and electrics with the spares included: http://www.maxbashing.com/mbforum/showthread.php?103345-Losi-8ight-roller-chassis-1-8-wheels-and-tyres-and-big-spares-package Edited July 25, 2014 by Smoothybb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hokuspokus Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 Good bargain you got then,i know my luck id buy a banger and it would prob explode on me i know my luck lol will keep on the look out for a decent one to bash about,i got a thread in the ...wanted section thought ones might of got back too me saying they had ones for sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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