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GPV-1


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i wonder if i can get a little old venom gpv-1 to a ton up.

 

well got a bike, a wrecker off a website for around 65 quids i hope.

no steering servo, no radio or rx, running a 10.5t novac brushless 

on 2s. 

 

first off will be the usual stock mods, full bearing kit, possible ceramic set if its cheap.

beef up servo steering add a tankslapper damper.

front vent mod the bodywork

 

replace the brushless and esc to something upto the job.

add more voltage by means of 3s maybe a small 4s.

supersoft racespec nats tyres , and a paint job.

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first rc bike , but i am an ex 1:1 biker on and off road so know all the lines.

 

gearing is the main key 0.5 mod novak pinions 

 

tooth option on the spur are 64 62 60 , the pinion i guess will be a 13t drive 

3s will fit under her but without belly pan, thats a risk if she goes front up.

 

100% i will see expansion of the rear wheel i count upto a 1cm removal of front bottom cowling and rear under cowling.

allowing tyre expansion and not rubbing.

the main layshaft section is plastic so i will most need to get an alloy set from the states or australia, denmark just costs a fortune same as germany.

 

5200kv to 5600kv people have problems keeping them planted, so im going to need expensive supersoft race breed tyres, i would like to run closer to

8000kv just use my dx6I full range system ( sticks) and program a softer and say 60% on throttle. and punch.

 

REMOVE ALL UNWANTED WEIGHT , less rubbish in it the less i have to push to a ton up, direct steering there aint no dampers, so have to learn to push past the tankslappers

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Main thing you will need is a super smooth place to run.

GPV1 is a great bike but doesn't like bumps.

Softest tyres I know of are ZH Racing Super Soft from 2 Wheel Hobbies.

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yeah i picked her up today, its not bad was a savage truck owner so it got bashed.

he hit a tree and that put the steering servo outta action. 

 

she needs new body work mounting posts, new cowlings ( the rider and tank cowl are good) the front scoop cowl is damaged and split

black leccy tape holding it together. 

 

rider is 60g , so dremeling his chest open and removing its internals should bring that to around what 30g max,

rear crud catcher is to low to wheel, if she hits the ton it will be with a locked rear wheel from expansion.

this rear crud catcher must go or be lifted to allow for tyre grow under throttling. 64 degree front rake will be pulled down to 60 for high speed.

rear droop set to 4mm showing and not standard stock 2mm. 

 

those side sliders are going to i dont need sliders so a few more grams shaved.

 

3s possible 4s is the powersource, small low mah cells just for single there and back speed runs

now to find a mamba 8000kv to drop into her.

 

Edit : 

 

has a dynamite mini tazer esc ( no clue as i ran castle 25s in the day and the older c20 8000kv motors)

not had a pokey around at the motor yet, ( i say yet as im waiting on the plate of spagbog so i can start)

cant me looking at modding and making stuff better if you aint got a belly full of spagbog

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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Mini tazer esc are rated at 2/3 s max and are usually found in mini scale rc trucks around the 30a mark from memory and not that great if im honest. 

 

Come on tami pull your finger out the spagbog must have filled you up by now we want pics !!!!!

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work started last night. 

 

some facts, found by the crazy tinker tami.

 

gorilla glue aint as strong as you think, i unstuck the bodge job cowl window,

and replaced it with a smoked brown tint see through cowl window.

this was screwed down into place, its gotta be perma fixing so screws are good.

 

need to grab a HS-81mg or a HS-55mgbb. steering i dont think my budget two quid tourniqy

is gonna last ( this aint a jetboat/camera gimbal ) its gotta throw that 60g wheel left n right.

ESC may have to go. if i go to fit a brake kit ( required for records) its going to take away the esc space

the esc will have to be sub-micro but able to feed off 3s / 4s lipo

 

SPUR GEAR !!!!!!! argh bane of my life, its that stupid unused 0.5mod , price for a single spur from germany is 40 quid

yeah fourty quid for original part lol!!! so heres the idea..........

i find a spur gear adaptor with the right bore, something 0.8 mod but small.

then i can go even lower than 60t spur and even higher than the 15t max pinion (the 60-15 gearing is a 4.2:1 ratio times that by 2.6 gives the final drive ratio)

bout 11.**:1

 

pictures give me time, its like a dark cave here lol, no sun and dead studio lights

but they will come.

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Are you serious about getting an 8th scale motor bike to 100mph! Wow! I had one a couple years ago and stupidity got the better of me when I dropped a 9000kv dynamite motor in it. Super soft tyres couldn't help it either and I only used the stock battery God help me if I used Lipo. Hope there isn't a grain of sand on your running surface as at 100mph it will rapidly turn to parts if it goes wrong. But videos and pictures are a must on this. Good luck!

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i have a 1/18th 3s lipo car and i can tell you this much i hit a stone that was about 4mm round  and my car did severe somersaults.  and it was only going about 35mph.  another time i clipped a low curb at around 40mph+   and it flew about 30 feet before hitting the ground again.   so god knows what your bike is going to do.  i wish you luck  and i hope you can find spares.

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WOW .... and i mean WOW. 

 

couldnt find the front rake adjustement holes so i had a dig around,,,,,,,

hmmm gorilla glue filled the holes.

 

so out came the front fork stem holder block, this had more than a little knock. its been full hammered at wot

into a un-movable object, the front whole block is shattered and a lovely yellow triangle is filled with gorilla glue.

going to have to find a new front end block before i can even fire her up. BUT good news the cowling now fits like a glove. 

and top plates as these now have a lovely slot smashed in and not three seperate holes, mind you multi adjustment rake anyone at 0.1 degree over a 10mm range

lol.

 

the steering rake i put to 60 degree, this means less steering at lower speed but higher stability when running fast straights.

the more angle in your dangle is better but it adds a couple mm to your wheel base length. ( 60 degree rake is really something a very good ride will run)

its all bolted together to keep everything somewhat in line , another good point is the rest of the chassis rails are fine.

 

chain is slightly to slack and rubbing the base plate, nothing a link removed wont harm, front end im worrying about

i have noticed the forks pushed down so the hex top nut is flush with the fork yolk plate, these should be above the plate clamp

and tightened up hard, the lower yolk clamp done up finger tight so not to pinch the pistion tube ( like in real bikes ), pinch the tube the suspension sticks on the front 

then kicks the front up when it releases.

 

 

i used to run an 8000kv micro rc18t long time ago, the key to speed runs is easy in on the power

and brush down your run line. most records and likes will be on a brushed down surface.

keeping it front down is no problem, its keeping it straight and from getting tank slap thats the problem that will come

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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usUlvBh.jpg

 

IMPlfsG.jpg

 

kaNYtQr.jpg

 

CWObsLQ.jpg

 

xR4nBk6.jpg

 

 

 

a huge set of images of the bike.

 

the front fork rake is set at 60 degree

the total length is 190mm wheel center to wheel center

rear swing arm shock damper set to 3mm droop and around 5 turns down on rebound preload.

front end is direct steering with spring and o seal damp rodleft and right.

also notice the top of forks there should be a stub above the top of the fork yolk clamp on the top.

i am also missing rear cowl body post, and missing front cowl body post. i will need to make front scoop/cowl side posts

 

i think i could squeze in a smallish 540 motor if i mod up a bracket.

 

drive line specs 

 

rear sprocket = 24t

front sprocket = 12t

main spur = 60t

main pinion =14t

FDR ratio (my maths) 10.92 :1

 

do not know what the motor is, its an orange like finned can no markings, running that tazer dynamite esc (20-25a - 2s/3s)

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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Mine runs 9200 kv ,35a mongoose esc,2s. Lost count of the amount of rear rims been though lol, alloy rims is on my list when get round to it. Larger motor more fitting be 380/26mm can more so than 540 which brings on more headache...

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Mine runs 9200 kv ,35a mongoose esc,2s. Lost count of the amount of rear rims been though lol, alloy rims is on my list when get round to it. Larger motor more fitting be 380/26mm can more so than 540 which brings on more headache...

 

heya R46 buddy. 

 

where are you getting repairs from, i am having to source front steering head block from australia.

a

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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there are NO gpv-1 bikes for sale on thebay( sorry its being ninja linked by forum)  and has not been for a very long time. 

 

i am sourcing parts from Perth, Austraila and thats using ebay.

just dont know if i have to be a thebay/paypal member to buy them.

i always use guest when i pay for stuff on hobbyking and likes.

anyone know if you can buy from ebay but not have to log into paypal

but pay as a paypal guest ? ( im gonna order atleast 3-4 units) i could also do with the

top race kit chassis plates ( headstock adjustment rake and wheelbase length.) 

 

 

yeah buy all the bikes that come up and find each one needs a front head stock replaced,

its the key weak point in all motorcycles, the front end squash, usually the front forks will bend back

on rc bikes its solid so its forced stress fracturing of the headstock and the thin spacing between

the rake adjustment holes. on bikes these days they have added a shock system to help somewhat on the headstock

and the headstock itself is of an alloy compound giving strength but also lightness.

i just do not have the tooling and or tools to carry out this heavy modding work, ( no milling table, and/or drill press  and lathe)

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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MODS, HOPE THIS IS OK. I APOLOGIZE IF NOT.

Have you tried this place?

https://www.rcspares.com/rc/product/list?combine=GPV-1&sort_by=created&sort_order=DESC&items_per_page=96

some parts out of stock but they appear to have the alloy steering block in stock.

I've used them recently for some parts to keep in stock.

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these gpv-1 and the sb5 have been known to top 60-70mph messing around.

so a ton is not impossible, its just getting there that eats up the money and time.

 

thanks syncro will give them a call in the morrow see what they have.

 

will pop a couple of cowled up photos once imgur becomes less hammered

 

cEnmNx1.jpg

 

4aAq7Pg.jpg

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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Blimey, I'd be interested in that if TC isn't!

 

Keeping an eye on this one, could be amazing!

 

go for it buddy, im going to try and source parts, got a couple shops to phone and also contacted atomik/venom to.

 

I could run mine now how it is, but really want a strong front end, i have no idea on the motor in the bike

so its guess work. and a hard hit could blow out the front steering block.

 

if i cannot find parts i need to find someone with a cnc milling machine

who could mill me a alloy head stock from my broken one.

am willing to send my broken headstock so measurements can be made

and used to profile a new block

 

Edit : 

 

just purchased 2 units of the plastic UPGRADE steering tube ,

cost me

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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ok so if the kangaroo land hobby store fails and the rcparts store fails. i need some sort of fall back.

 

got no cnc cutter so i am unable to polycraft anything myself, this leaves me with one choice, full on headstock conversion.

 

 

now bikes need a certain geometry on the front end, this rake angle allows bike to be set up to widthstand higher speeds,

but at a cost, low speeds your steering is very shallow ( you turn and thebike keep tracking straight'ish) this is what the rake does.

Now we will have to fit a 1/5th scale headstock into the front end of the 1/8th bike, the tube runner is no problem we can squeeze in a

bearing or two to keep the tube diameter ideal, the main problem is the chassis plate widths. 

 

the 1/5th bikes and 1/8th bikes share a common part, the headstock. they maybe slightly different in shape but they all do one thing

hold a riding pin/tube connecting one part to another like a vertical hinge on a door, so heres the idea, I run a M5 headstock or a alloy

thundertiger fm1e - fm1n ( the red ducati bike/hobbyking clone nitro) headstock, if these are to wide it means sanding/grinding down

so they will slip within the slim front chassis nose. i only need one mounting point and i can add in a bump bar and a shock clasp holder

a hard hit on the front, will make the headstock piviot, this intrun compresses a spring in a small clasp holder on the upper plates. a lower

long bolt and spacer covered in heatshrink is the bump bar. it stops the front wheel folding outwards.

 

i need to pull the front end of to show you guys pictures of the faulty and poorly thought out headstock, and images i can comeback to when i start heavy modding/conversion.

so give me a day or so to grab them and get this thing apart lol. 

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Seeing as this is your first rc bike I would buy something rtr see how it performs and runs correctly and work up to this later, you seem to be chucking your self in the deep end with concrete boots on !

All sounds like a plan but without proper tooling it could easily become out balanced ? . I don't think a few hand tools and a dremel is quite going to do it for you but who knows you could pull it off ?

Instead of modding the life out of it and potentially just wasting a load of time and money sometimes it's better to just shelf it and move on or keep it as a side project while you practise your driving skills on another ? .. Imagine speeding all this time and money on it to stack it first bash out ! .

Just my 2 cents for what it's worth

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because i cant afford the 400gbp for a race chassis

and then whatever those customs charges are for importing from italy. 

 

the problem is this, Anderson etc etc will all make bikes jump onto a bandwagon.

and then just crash everything, they will discontinue parts and leave no aftersales at all.

that 250 quid motocross bike becomes useless. 

 

if you notice anderson did a m5 race bike, they dont any more and you cant get parts.

Kyosho are the only company that kept 1/8th alive with the HOR bike, the only other bike 

is the KH racing 201B race bike. the 201b is the only race bike in 1/8th scale, kyosho is a playground runner

and anderson are just milking the lot ready for the next new fad/craze.

 

so i am somewhat between a rock and hard place cant afford race kit chassis, cant afford to race convert a motocross

so i have to stick with the next best thing a very cheap

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