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KB WR8 flux pulls to one side when accelerating


Sonicr360

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Hi there

First post! Got KB WR8 electric with 3S battery but something bothering me..... On hard acceleration it seems to pull / move to the left. In other words the side with the black tyre pulls to the left.... I'm continually trying to straighten the car.... Is this normal.

No changes to this model all standard.

Appreciate any advice.

Simon

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Hi

I have tried this..... the problem happens when you try to go flat out. The trim is fine when driving at a reasonable 10mph - it is straight... but as soon as you full throttle, is pulls to the side where the black wheel is fitted (So if you are looking at the car from behind, it pulls to the left).

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If you're putting so much power through it, the slightest thing will affect it.

Is one wheel dragging more than another?

Are there any kinks / bashes in any of the arms?

Does one side have more 'play' in it than the other?

Is the toe setting correct?

It's 4WD?

Don't forget, once power is on, it will naturally pull the fronts in, pulling itself forwards. If one side is looser than the other, this could affect it.

Al.

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Hi,

Everything looks good. I also tried a 2S Battery, trying to reduce the power, but the same thing happens.

It is 4WD yes. All standard.Not sure about Toe settings, can you advise on this?

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I'm not familiar with this car, other than seeing other posts and photos.

I'll have to leave it to owners to advise.

Perhaps post this query in the Everything WR8 thread?

Al.

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There could be some dust stuck in an unfortunate place, there could be a shot bearing. Anything that can create drag can create this problem. Also, if you have slop in the rear-toe, a problem like this could also arise.

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Check your wheel bearings. Had this happen to me today and the wheel bearing had disintegrated.

 

I agree with this. Check the wheel bearings.

 

You will need to check all 4 wheels. The easiest way would be to remove the tires, disconnect the outer screw on the upper link (and the steering tie rod on the front), and then let the hub swing down so the dogbone is disengaged. At that point you should be able to spin the axle and see if it spins freely.

 

If it doesn't then you need to replace the wheel bearings. Just make sure you refer to the exploded parts view in the user manual as there is a small metal spacer that needs to go between the bearings front and rear.

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Morning All

Firstly, my sincere apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I ended up being called out to work (On-call) and therefore could not even touch the car as planned!! Pretty gutted.

But my plan is to check the bearings out first and get back to this forum.

Once again, so sorry for the lateness of my reply.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone.

Firstly, my sincere apologies for the delay in getting back in touch.

I think I may have found the problem. Basically, the Servo does not appear to be going into the straight position (neutral).

If I turn right, the servo struggles to move back to the neutral (centre) position.

I have compared this WR8 to another, and I cannot see any difference at all.

 

So as a test, I have ordered a spare Servo (the owner of the other WR8 refused to let me try his!) so will see what happens with this.

 

Simon

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Ahh... One thing you could do is replace the servo saver. I had a similar problem and it was actually the servo saver itself.

 

Open up your spare part bag and you will see a hard plastic servo saver collar in the bag. This is the upgraded servo saver collar and you should try installing it onto you servo saver. That should help out a bit.

In the picture below it is the ring looking plastic at the 1 O'Clock position.

101224_101224_01p_800_600.jpg

 

If that doesn't help you could try assembling the servo saver off the servo and then adding some ca glue to to tension ring. Let it dry and then reinstall. While you have the servo saver off make sure you check the steering assembly for smooth operation. Clean and replace the bushings on the servo saver posts if needed. 

 

Lastly replace the servo. When you reassemble give the car a bit of toe out on the front. Just a tad will improve the full throttle acceleration directional control considerably.

Edited by Mgozzz
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Afternoon

Well I fitted the brand new Servo - This was also an updated HPI metal version, but essentially does the job.

Replaced the arms with the spares in the WR8 box (as mentioned in the post).

However, once the steering trim is adjusted and drives fine at a slow speed, the moment you go to use full throttle or hold throttle at full pelt, the car drives to the right! I am essentially trying to keep the car straight by driving to the left to maintain a straight line.

At a loss now, so going to strip the right side down and check for any break or wear / damage.

I have also removed all suspension clips. Part of me started to thing maybe I need more weight on the "left" side of the car?

Simon

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Afternoon

Well I fitted the brand new Servo - This was also an updated HPI metal version, but essentially does the job.

Replaced the arms with the spares in the WR8 box (as mentioned in the post).

However, once the steering trim is adjusted and drives fine at a slow speed, the moment you go to use full throttle or hold throttle at full pelt, the car drives to the right! I am essentially trying to keep the car straight by driving to the left to maintain a straight line.

At a loss now, so going to strip the right side down and check for any break or wear / damage.

I have also removed all suspension clips. Part of me started to thing maybe I need more weight on the "left" side of the car?

Simon

Try adding in a bit of toe out and see if it helps.

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Can you tell me how I add a bit of toe out? Sorry I have not done this, and was not sure where or how to look :(

The easiest way is to get a small spanner and shorten the length of the steering links on both sides evenly.

So if you give one side a quarter turn give the other side the same.

The front has true turnbuckles so turning the link one direction will shorten it and turning it the other will lengthen it. Just make sure you are turning then the correct direction.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Good Morning

Firstly, I am so sorry for the delay in getting back to this. Work and life seems to have taken its toll!

However, I wanted to update you and say that I am still having problems with this car!

So much so, that I went out and bought a 2013 new model WR8!!!!

 

I was so frustrated with this one, that I seemed to be replacing part after part and not getting anywhere!

 

The good news, is that the new car drives straight! In fact it goes really well. Ok..... maybe it "used" to go well!!!

The car ended up in an incident with a BIGGER REAL car!! I will post a new thread.....

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Good Morning

Firstly, I am so sorry for the delay in getting back to this. Work and life seems to have taken its toll!

However, I wanted to update you and say that I am still having problems with this car!

So much so, that I went out and bought a 2013 new model WR8!!!!

 

I was so frustrated with this one, that I seemed to be replacing part after part and not getting anywhere!

 

The good news, is that the new car drives straight! In fact it goes really well. Ok..... maybe it "used" to go well!!!

The car ended up in an incident with a BIGGER REAL car!! I will post a new thread.....

 

Word, again it's all good.

 

So I know it is frustrating and all that but why don't you give us a rundown on exactly what you have changed out. Part by part.

 

As for the new car that got crunched (I read the other thread) I'm terribly sorry! That would have made my blood boil! Did you at least get the registration and call the police? I would and then I'd try to get the guy to pay for the damages of an entire new car! These things aren't cheap at all!

 

OK back on topic. Tell us what you have changed/inspected on the old car and it'll give me an idea on what you should be looking into next. Sound good?

 

As for fixing the new car, you will probably need to take the front end clear off of it and inspect and replace anything that looks bent. I read you are trying to straighten the shock towers, fyi they are super cheap (@ $3.50 us) so even if they are bent the slightest I'd replace them. You don't want to go through the entire car and have it handle like poop when you're done just because you missed one part.

 

Now to give you an idea of what kinds of things you need to look for check out this picture:

TpVTkzWl.jpg

 

This was taken off my WR8, you should be able to tell that both ends of this brace are bent up. When you are inspecting either of your cars you will need to be looking out for bent alloy parts. If you have another chassis there to compare it to it makes the job easier.

 

If you have any questions or get stuck somewhere ask away! I'd be glad to help.

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Good Evening.

Thanks for this. I plan to look at this tomorrow in more detail, but this picture certainly will help :yes:

I am tempted to get a cheap WR8 Flux again...... But I would like a Traxxas XO-1 too !

 

As for the car that caused the damage, yes got the plate, but the Police would not take it seriously at all!!! I was quite annoyed about it.

They said I should not have had it in a Public road..... I said "I did not expect a car driver to drive over it when its parked up to the kerb!"

 

But clearly I am to blame, so very little I can do now.... move forward and find a fix!

I have now got a new set of blue WR8 wheels (as one is egg shaped), so that is being done tomorrow. I am going to replace the Shock plate too...... I got this delivered brand new. I agree with you, that trying to fix it, was not ideal and as you say, it was cheap.

 

I will give an update to everything else I do on the new WR8 tomorrow.

Thanks, Simon

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Great! Definitely try to make a list of the things you have tried to fix on the old one too.

 

It would be silly to let it sit unused just because it doesn't drive straight when it could be something as simple as a tie rod length being out of whack.

 

Good luck!

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