oodboo Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 It's arrived: I've made a start on the build but I'm in no rush to finish it. Going to get it build up as standard (plus bearings and a 55t motor) then look at mods and upgrades. The intention is to mount a camera in the cab for some FPV driving. Steering mod is a must by all accounts, but what else should I be looking at? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Oh and I bought it without the led kit and speed controller so will need to get them. Unless I just use ones I've already got but I'd like a brake so it doesn't roll down hills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pensioner Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Hi ood that looks nice when you going to put some pictures up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 I'll get it a bit more built first, it's at work where the missus can't see it so I only get to work on it for an hour or so at the end of the day. Might get some progress photos if I remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Nice. One of my favourite models that I do not own myself. Will be following this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 I've sat all day at work and finished the initial build. A quick test run round the office tells me it's too fast. I was hoping it would be slower with the 55t motor but it's too quick for what I want. I've been looking at the GRU from RC4WD so might get one of them, but that means more mods to make it all fit. I also need to look at how I'm going to fit my battery in. I've stopped using nimhs and the lipos I was planning on using are a little bit too long. It might fit with a little bit of trimming on the chassis but I don't want to cut it then find it still wont fit. Sorry, no pictures as I don't have a camera with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Have you tried these? http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-7.4v-30c-3250mah-lipo-sport-track-pack/rc-car-products/379011 They are a teeny bit longer than Ni-mhs, but fit in almost all Ni-mh chassis. They fit perfectly in my TT-01 for example, although I had to trim off the jutting-down bit from the battery bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 ood, you want a 60t-80t motor, dont bother with the extra money on the gru, its a waste to be honest...... i found the same issues when doing my chassis, i blocked up the hole in the side and built a tray so i now use the turnigy nano tech 2200 lipos, last around 30odd mins each but for 7 quid a pop, cant grumble.... looking forward to seeing this progress mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Cheers big Gaz, I think the small, cheap lipo will be the better option. Guess I'm looking for an 80t motor as well, probably cheaper and certainly less faf the a gru. The overland sticks look ok but I think I'll go with the cheaper option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) Time for some photos. Chassis and controller: With the body sitting on it: Another shot: Running video: Still needs a lot of work, I haven't secured the electronics as they will be changing. Not sure but I think I'm going to go for the mtroniks tio rock esc and an 80t motor. I'd also like some bigger tyres on there. I think they look too small. The standard tyres are 96mm, I was going to go up to 108mm. I've left the rear diff unlocked for now but that might change when I get it out and start running it. Could be worth just locking it anyway, not sure. The whole slow thing is new to me but that seems to be the right thing to do from what I've read. I need to get something decent for cutting out the body as I don't want to make too much of a hash of it, then I need to spray it. Not too far off complete but it's probably about 6-8 weeks away from nearing completion. Edited March 6, 2014 by oodboo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Bizarre controller! How easy is it to handle? I guess on a slow model it probably wouldn't affect you much. Agreed on the tyres, some big ones with nice chunky tread would look the part. Good thread! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Thanks, it's pretty easy to use really, just need more space than the office. I used it at the weekend with my lunchbox and that's pretty quick but it was intended to be used on slower models. That's the first of many alternate controllers I have planned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Speaking of alternate controllers; the gadget show entered a Robot Wars-style competition a while back using a wii-mote as the transmitter, and it worked really well! They used the motion-sensor technology for throttle, brake and steering. Ever thought about something like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 It's something I've thought about but I'm not that clever yet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Ordered an 80t motor today along with scissors and reamer to cut the body out. Leaves me with a spare 55t motor, I think I'll put that in the duckmobile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 80t motor fitted and I'm much happier with the top speed. I've also cut the body out and I'm hoping to get it painted sometime this week. Ordered some new masking tape which should be here tomorrow so I can make a start masking bits off ready for the first coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 ahhh glad the motor has got it to a more appropriate speed, should have a great amount of torque with that motor now too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perruzo Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 That's a good looking beast. Always liked unimogs and that looks great. Would be ace with a rc hiab fitted on the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Are wheels weights the way to to balance out for a top heavy shell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 yes mate but you would be better using the stick on lead they use on double glazed windows, so much neater to get onto the wheel rather than the bulky alloy wheel weights.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Nice one, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Cheers big Gaz, I think the small, cheap lipo will be the better option. Guess I'm looking for an 80t motor as well, probably cheaper and certainly less faf the a gru. The overland sticks look ok but I think I'll go with the cheaper option. I use Overlander 4800 mah pack, non-lipo and it lasts me well over 30 mins of run time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 what would be best for cross country running in the forest. I need some speed and I do need torque aswel for bumpy and muddy terrain. Would a 80T motor be very slow? if yes, then would a motor between 50-60T be okay guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 etronix 60t gives good wheelspeed and quite a bit of torque whereas 80t will be slower but have more torque, i found the 60t more to my liking on 2s lipo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 ahh I see. Well I don't have lipos I'll be running on nimhs, I may go for a 60T, don't want total slowness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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