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The Budget-Maxx.


Tug

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I bought my 3906 E-Maxx in 2006, and cut my RC teeth on her. It was my first RC since my mid teens, so I was basically a noob. I knew nothing about hop-ups, but I learnt fast and spent a small fortune in no time!

I've quite a few pics knocking about, but these are what I've been up to tonight.

When I changed to an Ally chassis, the battery trays in the new chassis were a pain. They only took standard length packs. So recently I've been messing about fitting GV Cage battery boxes. They were fitted a few weeks back, but it was only a temporary job. Today my ally arrived, so I got busy making proper mounting plates for the two battery boxes.

Here's how they sat with the bodge job.

B784BA9A-3015-499D-AE68-8375C9D517AE_1.j

546FBBE8-3E3C-40A1-B071-46FBAE2F2BA8.jpg

So, out they came, time to get inventive.

91E72DC7-6175-4E28-AECF-6CD99DA95AEA.jpg

Loving my HW 1800 kv, 4274 sensored can BTW!

2D81F1F5-EC7B-4351-B6C7-ADCC69B526EE.jpg

B735959F-F177-486E-92BF-A170002EC098.jpg

Mounted onto a nice flat piece of ally.

043744BD-C088-4F43-A3FB-C45990131899_1.j

Second box in!

15E324C0-21DA-48D7-8143-2CCA8677C4A0_1.j

And an "up skirt" shot!

EECD7458-88F2-49E1-A884-DDDF554FC19A_1.j

Look to the right of this shot, you can clearly see something very special! A UE monoblock chassis extension! That is milled from a single piece of ally, it adds approximately 30 mm to the wheelbase, none of what I've shown you would've been possible without it! It set me back ~

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Looking good Tug.I am going to get some battery boxes for my flm build.I don't like the idea of the lipos just being strapped to the chassi with open slots in the chassi.They could quite easily get punctured.Yep I noticed the mono block and a great bit of kit it is.I mite invest in one in the future :thumbsup:

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Cheers chaps.

Yes, six new 'andles and four new 'eads!

Modding this one has been great, really enjoyed it. She's a keeper, couldn't ever sell it, put too much of myself into it.

The name "Budget-Maxx" came about from me getting my FLM Maxx. The idea being that the FLM would be top grade everything and the 3906 would be lower grade. I've almost stuck to that! HW combo in the Budget car, CC 3M and CC/Neu 1518, 1800 kv in the FLM. They both use Hitec 7955 servos, fast and 24 kgs!

Budget car = RCbest bulks, FLM = FLM bulks.

Both are RPMd, there ain't much better!

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Looks decent.

I noticed that extension.

If I ever change my Maxx, I'll go for that Extreme chassis - but its at a price .... which I cannot afford .... for now!!

 

Are there any bodies that fit with the changes, or has the w'base remained the same?

Al.

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Looks decent.

I noticed that extension.

If I ever change my Maxx, I'll go for that Extreme chassis - but its at a price .... which I cannot afford .... for now!!

Are there any bodies that fit with the changes, or has the w'base remained the same?

Al.

You'd be better off looking at FLM chassis. They're better quality and I think they may now offer a LCOG chassis too. I haven't looked lately, it gets too tempting!

The bodyshells aren't an issue, standard MT shells fit just fine, but only just. I'm currently using a Savvy shell, not sure of the make, I got it from Mark at Outlaw Graphics.

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Mine is the FLM chassis. .... for 3906.

The other option I would have would be the 3905/3908 option, to permit upgrading the slipper.

No problem at the moment, but the power does melt the Robinson slipper plates - I have the 'Kershaw conversion' - cone washer and thrust bearing.

 

Al.

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Mine is the FLM chassis. .... for 3906.

The other option I would have would be the 3905/3908 option, to permit upgrading the slipper.

No problem at the moment, but the power does melt the Robinson slipper plates - I have the 'Kershaw conversion' - cone washer and thrust bearing.

Al.

Mine too, but I used FLM box adaptors for both chassis, so both cars now sport 3905/3908 BL gearboxs. No slipper issues with the modern set-up.

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Mine too, but I used FLM box adaptors for both chassis, so both cars now sport 3905/3908 BL gearboxs. No slipper issues with the modern set-up.

Not noticed the box adaptors - are they plastic?

Al.

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They're quite neat.

 

Definitely nice to permit installation of the newer gearbox, as parts are getting more difficult to locate for the older one.

 

I still like the - totally unnecessary - means of changing gear.

 

If I happen to let somebody 'have a go' I'd probably slip it into the lower gear to give 35+ instead of 50+ mph!!

Al.

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How reliable has the HW combo been?As you know I am toying with motor and esc ideas and the HW combos seem to be the cheapest way to go.

The ESC has been rock solid, only quibble has been LVC, I had to set this to 3.0 volts to achieve a true 3.4 volt cut-off. Otherwise, faultless.

The motor came much later, I fancied a change and I'm glad I did it. It's fast and torquey, never gets hot. It's also sensored, so slightly smoother off the line, but to be honest, the HW ESC was never rough off the line even with a sensorless motor.

Buy through MS and you'll have no warranty issues. As with all electronics, just gear it sensibly.

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That will be two 2s 5200mah turnigys or two 2s 5800mah gen aces?

On 4s I comfortably run ~23/68, this gives reasonable speed and no heat issues. That's on the 1800 though, so perhaps slightly lower for the 2200. TBH, I can run 5s on that gearing with no issues. That's the advantage of the lower kv motor.

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