9 replies to this topic

[JayAVFC]

Hi all,
i know some of you are really into 1/10 touring car racing
i am wondering what could i get for £550 and i already have the transmitter so need chassis and electronics for it etc

also what are the best makes and what would you recommend for my budget

p.s. i plan to race at maritime racing in chatham

Thanks

[ReggieC]

Best place to start for a beginner would probably be a second hand Xray T2/T3 chassis that can be had anywhere from £80 to £150 depending on spares. You can get some ROAR approved turnigy lipos relatively cheaply,say £35 including postage. Hobbywing xtreme stock 13.5 set up was £85 last time i looked. A nice high speed Power HD servo at about £20. Sorex 24r tyres at a about £20 for 4 and a Protoform LTC-R shell for £20 plus paint.

That set up would suit you well mate

[Garry]

What he said.

£550 is a decent budget but you can run out of funds very quickly if you're going for quality equipment. Do you need a charger too?

Best thing to do is get down to the club, ask what the locals are using (common car means lots of setup advice).

[Matt_N]

I disagree with Regan on pretty much everything there For chassis, I'd look at what people at the local club run, so you have set-up advice and spares support. For lipos, ROAR approved has no bearing on anything over here, as ROAR is the American governing body. Also, most clubs will let you run any lipo as long as it's hardcased. If you need a BRCA legal lipo, Intellect 6800mah 70C will be great, if not, a hardcased Turnigy Nanotech will be fine. Depending on what classes the club runs, either a Xerun 10.5t or Xerun 13.5t will be what you want. For a servo, there's only one choice, a Savox SC1251. Tyres, Sorex 28JB's work best on carpet and for a shell, it's down to driver preference, some prefer the LTC-R, others prefer the Mazdaspeed 6.

Matt

[ReggieC]

I tend to listen more to Garry than Matt

[Matt_N]

What I'm saying is about the best advice you'd get. Quality of Power HD servos is hit and miss, Sorex 24's just grip roll and like I said in my first reply, ROAR ruling isn't anything to do with UK racing. Also, my advice pretty much agrees with what Garry says, I just went into more detail. At any club, there will be plenty of people running Xerun combos, there will be people running Intellect Lipos and most people will be running the Sorex 28JB's.

Matt

Edited by Matt_N, 20 May 2012 - 08:31 PM.

[ReggieC]

I know what you meant mate, i was being silly. <3 you really

[Quantra]

Before you start looking at what chassis/tyres/electrics get down to maritime and have a chat with the local racers.  Ask them what chassis they use and why.  Find out what is popular and what spares support is like.  It's much better to go in with a chassis that is commonly used at your local club so the other racers can help get you up to speed and make sure your car is set up sensibly.

As for tyres and electrics these may well come down to what classes they run there.  They could have a control tyre that you have to use if not find out what the fast guys are using - the right tyre makes all the difference.  My suggestion is to go for the slowest class available, this way you can learn to control your car and perfect your lines without having eye watering crashes and when you go faster you will fit in more suitably as you should already be able to drive on the racing line.  And if that class happens to be a 'blinky' class you can potentially save money on your ESC.

Once you know what the popular chassis are and what classes are available come back and let us know and we can advise on the specifics.

[flash22]

why dont you try there forum ?

http://www.maritimeracing.info

[ba57ard]

I agree with Quantra, try the slowest class first, even if its for a short period of time. Theres alot less room for error indoors, if you go for the faster classes, it will be harder to set up, harder to drive and you will probably crash alot more meaning you will be spending more time fixing the car than running it.