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E Maxx conversion


cyberdog-styles

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Im converting my second T-Maxx and took delivery of me new chassis yesterday, I originally wanted a GorillaMaxx chassis but they have stopped business, so I had one made by Ryan @ www.ukmonsters.co.uk, (cheers suicideneil). Now that its here I don't want to use it because its still nice and shiny. lol. So after putting it altogether it looks good, everything fits perfectly.

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Edited by cyberdog-styles
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  • 2 weeks later...

I got my batteries today

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Haven't mounted the battery trays yet but when I get to mounting them I'm going put 2 sets of mounting holes so I can shift the balance between bashing and speed runs, im also looking to shed a bit more weight from the chassis where the battery trays mount

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Edited by cyberdog-styles
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'Tis a thing of beauty, can't wait to see it finished.

@mrclive- google for GorillaMaxx chassis, you'll soon see the difference in design between a low CoG chassis and the stock/ FLM chassis which is designed for greater ground clearance...

I should know, I own an FLM e-maxx. That's why I questioned It's layout, even the gearbox is upside-down, presumably to get the weight of the motor as low as possible.

It's looking good, it'd be interesting to race it against my flm on a proper track to the difference.

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lol, the gearbox is the right way up, but in the 1st 2 pictures of the thread it is on backwards, I thought it looked wrong at 1st but then I realised its just because I'm use to seeing the gearbox on a normal chassis where the half of the gear box is underneath the chassis.

The gearbox and central drive shafts are much easier to work on in the event of breakage as everything attached to the gear box can now be lifted out as one piece

Have you got a picture of your FLM Maxx Mrclive? I would gladly race you to compare the difference in handling and gladly let you have a bash so you can feel the difference yourself when it is finished, although when and where is a problem, possible msuk jam next year?

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lol, the gearbox is the right way up, but in the 1st 2 pictures of the thread it is on backwards, I thought it looked wrong at 1st but then I realised its just because I'm use to seeing the gearbox on a normal chassis where the half of the gear box is underneath the chassis.

The gearbox and central drive shafts are much easier to work on in the event of breakage as everything attached to the gear box can now be lifted out as one piece

Have you got a picture of your FLM Maxx Mrclive? I would gladly race you to compare the difference in handling and gladly let you have a bash so you can feel the difference yourself when it is finished, although when and where is a problem, possible msuk jam next year?

It would certainly be a huge amount of fun to pitch one maxx against another! Shame we're so far apart, but I'm up for next years bash, this years was great, had a blast with so many RCers there, roll on 2012!

I'll sort out an up to date pic today.

Edited by mrclive
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if that is a 2 speed box you have in the middle there it isn't going to last very long with an electric motor trasmitting the power though it

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the process is called modification jumper. but honestly, the 2 speed transmission in the E Maxx is quite capable of handling the power, from what I understand most people only have problems with them when they try changing from low to high while moving at speed, fortunately Im not that daft, Im only having a single speed for now and will probably put a centre diff in

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i was just thinking that when people do leccy conversions on savages they take them out because they will get smashed to pieces with the torque of the motors

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It all depends on a few different things, throttle control is probably the easiest way to break it, if you pull the trigger at full throttle every time then the chances are you will kill your transmission, keeping the throttle on while landing jumps is another sure fire way of breaking it, I don't know about the savage flux transmission but on the Traxxas Brushless 2 speed you shift yourself with a 3rd channel on transmitter which while driving at speed is a bad idea. The nitro T Maxx changes automatically when it reaches a certain RPM

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Here's some pics, not brilliant, took them on my phone.

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She's well used, but in tip top condition, currently running an MMM with 1800kV CC motor, brushless E-Maxx diffs, Traxxas steel CVDs, RPM rear shock tower. Also, she has a BL E-Maxx gearbox, I bought this because the origional 3906 E-Maxx box couldn't handle BL power combined the extra weight of the FLM machine. To fit the BL Gearbox I had to get gearbox adaptors, also made by FLM, which is good of them. She's never run as sweet as she does now, I've even started running her on 3s, still fun, but keeps the nose down and takes the stress off of the drive-train.

I really hope we can put these machines side by side at some point in the future, I'll win of course! :whistling:

Edited by mrclive
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For the record..the Savage 2 speed is an automatic centrifugal shift. The brushless power comes in hard and would just smash the 2 speed shifting mechanism before too long. You would have to dial down the punch and feed the power in slow...which is a bit pointless. Removes all teh fun. HPI switched the box to run fixed single speed gearing in the Flux, so that's what you do when you convert a Savage. HAving a second gear YOU control means you can switch ratios when you want to and let the power off while switching.

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@ Jumper- the new style emaxx transmission is much, much stronger than most nitro transmissions, and the old emaxx transmission too; it was redesigned for the new emaxx versions to handle Brushless power without needing mods or upgrades.

I'd be wary of the traxxas center-diff though, the thing is a nightmare to tune compared to a real 1/8 scale CD, due to only having 4 spider gears ( 500k oil doesn't always prevent the front end from ballooning like crazy )...

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  • 1 year later...

So its been a long time since I updated this thread, the truck still isn't finished yet (every time I put money aside I end up buying another RC lol) but has had more work done to it since. I have since had a center diff/motor mount made up, added FLM Hybrid Bulkheads, HPI trophy truggy diff's with hardened gears, carbon wrapped the chassis, added RPM shock towers. The M.I.P CVD's wouldn't work with the 17mm conversion I bought so have gone on the old Maxx instead and some newer one's for this model will be bought in later

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Still left to do/buy:- 8x 8ight rear shocks, MIP CVD's, Shell, paint, Pro line Trencher X's

Its taking a long time to finish but that's what happens when there are so many great RC's out there that shout "buy me, buy me"

Edited by cyberdog-styles
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  • 1 year later...

Old thread, but glad you found it. I'd love to know where the centre Diff/motor mount is from.

yeah I never got round to finishung the thread but have finished the truck now so ill get some pics ups in a few days

I had the centre diff/motor mount custom made by ryan at www.ukmonsters.co.uk and the diff used is from a vorza.

Edited by cyberdog-styles
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yeah I never got round to finishung the thread but have finished the truck now so ill get some pics ups in a few days

I had the centre diff/motor mount custom made by ryan at www.uk-monsters.co.uk and the diff used is from a vorza.

Cheers for that, do you know if he still produces them?

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