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XV Pilot

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XV Pilot last won the day on July 16 2018

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About XV Pilot

  • Birthday 28/08/1977

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    Lincolnshire
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    1/10 electric Tamiyas
  • RC Cars
    A selection of various Tamiya buggies, trucks and touring cars ranging from '80s oldies to contemporary releases.
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  1. Going to have to take a break from the hobby for a bit, and likely the forum too. Thanks all - it has been a privilege. Happy Tamiya-ing!
  2. It is possibly a gross oversimplification, but in general softer things grip better. So softer tyres, softer inserts, softer springs, softer shock oils, etc. Another potentially gross oversimplification is to say that you can tune for understeer or oversteer by moving your grip bias backwards or forwards. So therefore, as a broad starting point, to make your car under understeer less, you can fit softer things to the front or harder things to the back. My apologies if I was stating the obvious, but you did ask for general advice!
  3. That is quite common with reproduction bodies unfortunately. The smaller repro houses simply don't have the ability or finances to make the complex moulds that Tamiya and other similar high-end manufacturers can produce. Shapes are therefore often simplified so that they can be molded cheaper and more easily using a one piece mould rather than the multi-piece moulds typically used for the originals.
  4. Well the body shape doesn't resemble that of a standard road car, so I don't think the colour should be one that you would typically find on a standard road car either. Maybe something very bright and luminescent with lots of sponsors stickers, or maybe a two-tone or possibly something with the pearl or flip effect?
  5. It looks like the spur would indeed fit the shaft without a problem. However there is a potential issue with it interfering with the chassis and gear cover. They look a bit tight...
  6. I have a DF-02 in my fleet, but not a TB-01, only a TB-03. I'll have to consult a manual to check...
  7. I used Super Mini CVA shocks on mine. The Mini CVA bodies are a bit too long and you run out of space to get the lower spring retainer in place if you build the shocks short enough to fit the chassis. If you want to follow my example you only need one pack of long ball connectors. All the other ball connectors are the standard size ones.
  8. Give it time. The times on the bottle are optimistic at best. You'll probably want to let it work for longer than specified.
  9. Yes indeed! You can use a bag of long ball connectors P/N 9805825 to space the upper links and lower shock mounts further forwards. This stops the right rear upper link from fouling the propshaft gear cover and causing asymmetrical suspension droop. Another improvement is to use a pair of 10mm m3 grub screws to occupy the second set of holes which secure the extension pieces to the rear uprights. This gives them a more secure connection and minimises slop in this area. You can also improve the servo saver by using a tiny piece of tape to reduce slop between the grey and cream pieces like so:
  10. No probs. One thing I should mention - you probably know already - if you aren't running turnbuckles you'll need the TA-01 upper arms too. Luckily they come on the same sprue as the lower ones.
  11. Yes indeed - this is how the TA02SW 911 GT2 kits are supplied, with a 236mm wheelbase shell and chassis.
  12. You can shorten the wheelbase of a TA-02 with flipped TA-01 arms, but the width comes from the extra wide rear wheels.
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