m1tch_87

Indeed, you can set the motor up to different driving styles, how much braking force the motor gives as well as other things - plus you can play with gearing as well. I am tempted to get myself an off road electric at some point as well, much easier than a nitro as you just plug the battery in and off you go - once it runs down, just plug another battery in and off you go.

I had the Carnage NT, it was fairly fast when I got it running but the reason why nitro powered cars are starting to die out is due to the fact that brushless electric motors are now surpassing the nitro performance (and a lot less messy!).

Check out the HPI firestorm

I have no time or space to be able to run or test it, it's not fun at all, expensive and quite stressful so I don't want to carry on with it - total run time of actually running an RC car around is around 15 minutes, the rest of the hours upon hours have been trying to get it running and fixing everything. This is further coupled with the fact that I was going for both the open wheel ROSSA record as well as the nitro record - I have now seen another build for a nitro car which will easily beat all of my hard work.

Had enough of this useless moneypit. *Project cancelled*

So like all RC dogbone and driveshaft links?

I am sure if you measure it up there will be some metal equivalent on other models.

If you are looking for something off road and electric perhaps look at the HPI Firestorm - HPI have loads of upgrade parts, if you enjoy modding things perhaps look to get into ROSSA speed runs

Before you go out and buy various cars (although you will probably end up with a fair collection once you start!) its best to decide what you are wanting to do, are you looking to race competitively? Looking to run the car on road or off road? Just for fun? Etc. If you let us know what sort of things you are after we can help you - I am a newbie as well and this forum has been super helpful!

Just finished the engine mounts off, engine is back in with the spacers, all up weight is 2.5kg, as a comparison the .28 powered HPI Pulse like my father in law has is 3.3kg and I am guessing that would be the weight without the RX batteries and bodywork etc. I have also just taped my tyres, will glue them in a bit but its another stage closer to getting done, currently running the stock 14/50 gearing for break in/load.

I guess it would depend on how the engine was set up and the engine size, although I am a newbie I know that my RC is using a huge amount of fuel as its being broken in, might be worth checking fuel mixtures + temps - you might be able to lean out the mix slightly but it depends on the size of the engine.

So after around 3 hours of using a hand file I think I have managed to cut the slots for the engine mounts far enough to allow for the different gearing setups, I will hopefully now be able to fit the stock gearing for the next phase for break in and then gradually change the gearing out.

What ESC rating should I go with? I think I saw the 2.5t version running a 110a constant?

It sounds like its just the BEC that has gone then - you will just need an external power supply to run the receiver and servos much like you have to do on nitro cars, usually plug in a 6v hump pack but mine came with a 4x AA battery pack which has the same connector.

Did you set the ESC in brushless mode?