Shudson

As I think you know, I have several that I have converted to 2.4ghz and may consider selling. I have messaged you.

Nothing at all wrong with Big Bang 20; It is a very forgiving fuel. I've used Model Technics for over 50 years with no problems. I've tried others along the way, including Optifuel, which doesn't impress me at all. As far as sticking with the same fuel used for break-in, that is a fallacy! The only exception is if you have used 25% nitro to run in an unsuitable engine or, in many cases, subsequently. You may then have to continue to use 25% to compensate for the loss of compression due to abnormal wear.

The engine you are using could have a bearing. If not suited to 25%, it could overheat and, with significant use, wear excessively, which could then make it a one way road. In 60 years, except for competition, with suitable engines, I have never found the need for more than 20% and for some engines, less.

Have you calibrated the ESC?

There seems to be a lot of people prepared to pay a premium for sticks; compare the prices paid for used Etronix/Code/Tamco 3channel stick sets with the price of Flysky GT3xx wheel of basically similar spec.

Is receiver aerial damaged/cut?

Try a different pair of crystals. They can deteriorate with age or physical abuse

You are starting from a false assumption that the charge shown by the charger is that available from the battery. It isn't; it is showing the amount of energy it has put in. After you have charged it, let it rest a bit and put it on charge again. The amount of charge will show a very low figure - more or less just the amount of energy to create a bit of heat. The battery should always have some residual charge when you put it on charge. If you get a reading of the full capacity, th4en there is a fair chance that the battery has had it. What the charger is showing is the same as a petrol pump. If you have an 80 litre tank that is half full and you then fill it up, the pump will show 40 litres, but you do actually have 80 litres available.

I suspect that you may not be able to involve the Ombudsman until you have gone through the bank's formal complaints procedure, and I doubt that will be straight forward!

Charge from your car battery.

Also, still have the boat that I won National and Regional speed championships in early 70s and the boat I got as part of my 21st. Birthday present, that I won many competitions with and both engines (OPS .60 and Rossi .60) still run, but not used in anger for many years.

I've still got my first proportional set that I too got as a teenager, but I'm nearly 73 now! still works fine, although not in general use. Nothing wrong with the old crystal sets (although FM more reliable than AM). Admittedly, I tend to use 2.4Ghz mainly (I have 35 sets - I prefer one transmitter to each model), but only for the convenience of not having to worry about frequency clashes and the shorter aerial. I still have about 30 of the 40Mhz FM sets and quite lot of 27Mhz, which I would happily use.

Almost any will be OK. It is a case of balancing capacity (mah) which governs run time, against cost. Not arguing against 5000mah, but for me, around 3300/3600mah is a reasonable compromise.

Is the car second hand? Probably the control potentiometers in transmitter that are not calibrated properly; they can slip. Not a normal user adjustment, unless you know what you are doing.

The Code CR152, Etronix ET1151 (I think) and Tamco TAC330 or 300 are all identical - as far as I know, just the same system but re-badged by different distributers. I have 15 sets covering all 3 "makes", as well as the earlier DSSS models by Code and Etronix. and about half a dozen extra receivers of various makes, including a Hobbyking HKR 3000. All of the FHSS ones are entirely compatible and I interchange them with impunity. As far as I know, the wheel transmitters/ receivers are not compatible with the stick sets. All are discontinued, which is why second-hand receivers change hands at up to £40 , apiece.