c0sie

Maybe he isn't confident using something that combusts easier than NiMhs, or isn't confident in LiPo storage/charging/handling practices?

Could someone please measure me dimensions 'a' and 'b' on my attached image please? Doesn't specifically have to be for this tire, just needs to be a low-ish profile 1:10th off-road 4WD front. Thanks!

Just a little video showing our track - it's small, but the racing is better for it! This week sees the start of our Friday evening "Budget Touring" night - all details in the first post.

You mentioned you "detuned the Vantage" by going from a 23T motor to a 17T motor? The fewer winds (turns) the motor has the faster it is supposed to go, just in case you weren't aware? If you want make the Vantage go slower the quickest and cheapest way would be to restrict the forward throttle throw on his transmitter - be that by only setting the forward end-point on ESC setup to say 75% of full throw? etc.. Or have a look at the 27T and 35T range of motors from Core RC: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/electric-motors/rc-car-categories/9920/992015&ManufacturerID=1140 My best recommendation for a servo would be this: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-8-2kg-0-11s-low-profile-digital-servo-metal-gear/rc-car-products/433036 It's £4 more than you were looking to pay, but for that you get 8kg torque, 0.11s speed and its metal geared. Metal gears are important because they wont strip as easily as plastic gears. The 8kg of torque mean that you wont have any issues with the servo struggling to turn you as you are hard into a corner etc, and the speed means that you arent going to struggle through quicker turns as the servo tries to keep up with your inputs. As far as the servo saver goes (I have the FTX Banzai, which is basically the onroad version of the chassis you have, with onroad wishbones etc) you are best off supergluing the servo saver up and using an aftermarket servo saver. The stock servo saver e-clip is clipped into a plastic steering body, and after too many hits the e-clip will rip the top of the plastic steering body off (the channel where the e-clip locates) - this happened to me last week. A servo saver like this one from Kimsborough (25T (tooth) for the Etronix fitment) should be ok, although you will need to make your own hole in the middle of the servo saver: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/kimbrough-futaba-savox-servo-saver-small-25t/rc-car-products/375370 Hope that helps

Yes mate. Rocking yellow Rally Blocks too!

Seemingly then the car is actually not that bad, you were just suffering as a result of not having a racing set-up on the car. The first thing I would do, without doubt, it raise to the club that twice hit the same bolt in the armco. If you have hit it twice and broken your car then others could do the same. Hopefully there is something the club can do to fix the issue. Hopefully by now one of your fellow club mates has sorted your cars geometry. You need front and rear camber to be roughly -1' to -2', standard rear toe in (should be around -2.5'ish) and then ideally 0' front toe to maybe 0.5' toe -out depending on how the car behaves on corner entry. I'm guessing you are racing outdoors, maybe somewhere like Crystal Palace? You might want to speak to your fellow racers about tightening up your diffs too. The Tamiya stock diffs, I think, are just plain old geared diffs. They arent particularly sealed, but putting some diff oil in them will make a positive difference to handling. A thicker front diff will allow you to drive out of the corners better, and be more stable on braking (although with a 25 turn motor I doubt this is an issue), and a slightly thinner rear diff setup will stop the car (reduce) from diffing out on power mid corner. The electrics you are running seem perfect for your ability - ignore any calls to put in a brushless motor/esc at the moment. All you will be doing is spending north of £80 to make yourself crash faster. The Tamiya Torque Tuned motor you are running is a 25 turn brushed motor. I have one of these in a cheap TC I run and they do the job well enough. If you feel like you could do with a touch more speed then look on Modelsport for the Core RC 21 turn motor, or the Core RC 15 turn motor. The turns of these sealed silver can motors are not a direct comparison to the turn rating you'll find on brushless systems - sealed silver cans are slower, but a 20 turn brushed motor might be a perfect upgrade for you. You'd also be wise to look at buying some pinions to play with your gearing. Tamiya spur gears require "0.6 mod" pinions. Make sure you run a bodyshell with a rear wing - the rear wing makes a HUGE difference to handling. Hope that helps?

Socially distanced micro RC racing

Hi all, I have recently taken over the chairmanship of the Forest of Dean RC Car Club in Mitcheldean (GL17 0DD). We are trying to promote a new Friday evening "budget friendly/beginner friendly" 1:10th touring car class and hope that some of you might be interested in coming along! All detail below - if you have any questions please give me a shout, or see our website: https://forestraceway.wordpress.com/2020/08/23/budget-touring-cars-every-friday-evening-from-september-2020-at-forest-raceway/ Thanks, Cris ---- At Forest Raceway we want to promote RC car racing to newcomers to our hobby, as well as those who do not want to have to pay £400-500 to race the very latest RC chassis. We have produced this guide to try and help advise some of the more suited items that can be raced on a Friday night here at Forest Raceway. Basic Rules Chassis: Any on-road chassis, 1:10th scale or smaller – the cheaper the better! Batteries: Max 7.6V Lipo (hardcase) or 6 cell NiMh/NiCd batteries. (NiMh/NiCd preferred) Tires: All classes, except Mardaves: On-road treaded tires only – No slick tires, Rally Blocks or Mini Pins. NO ADDITIVE! Mardaves only: Open foam. NO ADDITIVE! Motor: 15 turn limit, sealed “silver can” style brushed motors only (no brushless, no adjustable end-bells). 20 turn limit recommended for novices. ESC: Any cheap brushed ESC (Hobbywing QUICRUN 1060 recommended) Bodyshell: Any 1:10th scale (or smaller) on-road shell, the more realistic the better, with clear windows to allow our timing system to work with your car. General: Please read all the general rules at the bottom of the rules page: https://forestraceway.wordpress.com/class-rules/ Batteries With the Budget Touring Car racing being focused more towards cheap, safe, and fun racing this guide is going to concentrate on NiMh batteries rather than LiPo batteries. LiPo batteries are welcome at Forest Raceway, but need to be handled, charged, and discharged safely else they can present a fire risk. We suggest you buy at least 2 NiMh drive batteries, of at least 3000mAh, for your Friday evening racing. The higher the mAh value the longer your battery will last, and with each race being 5 minutes long a capacity of at least 3000mAh should be fine. Some examples of NiMh drive batteries we would recommend are: Enrich Power 3000mAh 7.2V stick pack https://www.modelsport.co.uk/enrich-power-3000mah-7-2v-sport-stick-pack/rc-car-products/389536 Overlander 3300 mAh 7.2V stick pack https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-3300mah-7-2v-sport-stick-pack/rc-car-products/376164 Absima 3600mAh 7.2V stick pack https://www.modelsport.co.uk/batteries/rc-car-categories/9920/992025&MSAttributeID[32]=840&MSAttributeID[30]=600&MSAttributeID[31]=605&MSAttributeID[52]=1667 HPI Plazma 4300mAh 7.2V stick pack https://www.modelsport.co.uk/batteries/rc-car-categories/9920/992025&MSAttributeID[32]=840&MSAttributeID[30]=600&MSAttributeID[31]=605&MSAttributeID[52]=1487 Wheels, inserts and tires Our basic tires rules are no additive, no slicks, and no rally style tyres. With that in mind, for best performance and longevity we recommend the use of Schumacher Carpet Dragon tires. They offer exceptional grip, good tire life and do not need any warming up/additive for the grip to be readily available. You will need a set of 4 wheels, a set of 4 inserts (to fill the gap between wheel and tire), a set of 4 tires and some tire glue. We recommend the following: Schumacher SST Carpet Dragon 24/25mm (U6690) x 2 packs https://www.modelsport.co.uk/schumacher-sst-carpet-dragon-24-25mm/rc-car-products/14324 Schumacher Moulded Insert – Yellow Touring x 2 packs https://www.modelsport.co.uk/schumacher-moulded-insert;-yellow-touring-pr-/rc-car-products/422496 Schumacher Rev-Lite Dish Wheel 24mm x 1 pack https://www.modelsport.co.uk/schumacher-rev-lite-dish-wheel-24mm-white-4-/rc-car-products/30235 Cyanotec Tire Glue https://www.modelsport.co.uk/cyanotec-tyre-glue-20g-/rc-car-products/431690 Motors Although the Budget Touring Car evening rules state a sealed “silver can” style motor with a motor limit of 15 turns, if you are new to racing RC cars, or would class yourself as a novice racer, we recommend you run a 20 turn limit motor. Some examples of 20-21 turn motors we would recommend for novices are: Absima Thrust Eco 21 turn motor https://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-electric-motor-thrust-eco-21t/rc-car-products/380786 FTX Banzai 20 turn motor (comes with the FTX Banzai) https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-banzai-540-brushed-motor/rc-car-products/394949 Tamiya Torque Tuned motor (comes with most Tamiya kits) https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-torque-tuned-motor/rc-car-products/381429 Core RC 21 turn motor https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-21t-silver-can-brushed-540-motor/rc-car-products/442359 Etronix Sport Tuned Stock 20 turn motor https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-sport-tuned-stock-20t-brushed-motor/rc-car-products/443342 Some examples of 15 turn motors we would recommend are: Absima Thrust Eco 15 turn motor https://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-thrust-eco-electric-motor-15t/rc-car-products/381545 Core RC 15 turn motor https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-15t-silver-can-brushed-540-motor/rc-car-products/442358 HPI Firebolt 15 turn motor https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-firebolt-15t-motor-540-type-/rc-car-products/29609 Dynamite 15 turn moto https://www.modelsport.co.uk/dynamite-15t-brushed-motor/rc-car-products/384111 Note: the Budget Touring Car evenings do not allow brushless motors, or brushed motors with adjustable endbells such as the examples below! ESCs Any brushed ESC can be used at Forest Raceway, but we would recommend the following as they are both cheap AND are able to power the 15 turn and 20 turn motors we recommend: Hobbywing QUICRUN 1060 Brushed ESC https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-1060-brushed-waterproof-esc-sbec/rc-car-products/404964 Etronix Probe Plus 2.0 Brushed ESC https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-probe-plus-2-0-brushed-wp-electronic-speed-controller/rc-car-products/397047 Cars available There are quite a few 1:10th touring car options on the market. Because of ease of getting spare parts, cheap running costs, and availability some of the chassis we would recommend you look at are: FTX Banzai – £120 RTR https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-banzai-1-10th-scale-4wd-rtr-rc-car-brushed-electric-street-drift-car/rc-car-products/380699 Comes fully ready run, with oil dampened shocks and ball bearings throughout the drivetrain – all you will need to buy to race are AA batteries for the transmitter, some additional drive batteries (the battery that comes with the car has a very small capacity), and a set of wheels/tires/inserts to replace the drift tires. Tamiya TT-02 – £100 – £130 (depending on the bodyshell) https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-raikiri-gt-tt-02/rc-car-products/397242 Comes as a kit that requires assembly. As standard the TT-02 is an exceptional introduction to RC car racing, but does not come with oil dampened shocks or drivetrain ball bearings. It does however comes with a motor, ESC and pinion. The TT-02 does not come ready to run (RTR) either and will require additional items before you will be able to race it – some of which are listed below: Transmitter and receiver Servo Drive batteries Bodyshell paint Tires and inserts Kyosho Fazer Mk2 Kit https://www.modelsport.co.uk/kyosho-fazer-mk2-chassis-kit/rc-car-products/1330426 Comes 40% pre-assembled and will require further assembly. Comes with oil dampened shocks and a ball raced drivetrain, but requires further items before you will be able to race – some of which are listed below: Transmitter and receiver Bodyshell and paint Motor and ESC Servo Drive batteries Shock Pinion * Information, prices and availability correct as of August 2020

What is your mesh like?

I think they are these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-R-C-1-10th-Black-Dish-Wheel-w-Rally-Style-Tyres-fit-TT-01-TT-02-4pk/153947985197?hash=item23d803d52d:g:clIAAOSwZ91es9ZZ

I've asked the question - once I find out I'll let you know

https://www.phatbodies.co.uk/product/phat-bodies-hammer-for-lc-racing-emb-1-lwb-truck-chassis The Hammer shell is designed specifically for the LWB LC 👍

£10 for a shell is insanely cheap, especially as all the Phat Bodies shells are hand crafted - not CAD!

FYI: the nice guys at Screwz4RC have put a kit up for me - link is here: https://screwz4rc.co.uk/product/ftx-banzai-screw-kit/?fbclid=IwAR1rV4Si9bFDygZDyw5Gp1JeH0Qgln1_DP5SdzGXMvnUSsg3qqq0vlcoOXY

Wow, I registered over 15 years ago 😲 That's quite a scary stat! As far as I know TamiyaCowboy is a Twitch gamer. Not my thing, but I believe that is where he lives nowadays?