GorillaZilla

Could you burn vent holes on the outside of the tyre with a small soldering iron head and spin em up on a high speed drill to sling the water out?

Have any HPI firestorms knocking round in there? Cheers!

Hello, Do you still have this? Edit: Oh crikey, just noticed this was 4 years ago!

I see he got to you too...

Good stuff, money to Taiwan, enemy of communist bandit china and last sanctuary of real chinese culture which the communists sought to erase. Better than money going to winnie the poo and the tyrants too, the people who intentionally unleashed the coof coof upon the world (closed all internal flights to protect themselves, left all international flights wide open). No hating though, that's what our real enemy wants. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt-mPJEkDq4&feature=youtu.be&t=489 Also an excellent choice as the Hyper ST can easily be made the toughest out there by a Mile, on a shoestring budget too as there's a long and storied history and legacy of this machine, stemming from the crazy Hyper 7 Bashing legends. I have a couple spare motor mounts if you want one. And I have some links in my signature on brushless conversion strategies. Has some of the best chassis bracing of ANY Truggy, And can even be made a load better with a couple cheap mods, so you can REALLY send it without restraint. You can use any spare ST rear upper arm turnbuckles to make sweet extra chassis braces (with the longer plastic bit on both ends for the rear), from the little aluminum tube/space thing that the bolt that holds the rear chassis brace to the gearbox goes through.. To the Unused nitro Brake gubbins hole in the middle of the center diff plate... For connecting the turnbuckle to the center diff plate I use an M3 cap head Bolt through a Ball end like the ones that the turnbuckle is connected to the shocktower with. Then an M4 Nut underneath the ball end to fill in the ole of the center plate. then a thick wide washer, then an M3 Nylock nut from underneath to clamp it all together onto the plate.... I also do something similar for the front so the center diff mount can't be pushed over and forwards from an extreme rear impact. They work great, and have a little give in them to absorb energy rather than just transferring it on to the next part to break.... Might want to fill in the hollow bit of the longer plastic part of the turnbuckle with shoegoo or E6000 though to beef it up ( clean part with 99% alcohol so the goo sticks stronk, sellotape over one side of the hollow, then pour in shoegoo to fill it up) The suspension Hingepins are also easily converted to 12.9 High tensile steel nut and bolt, for even more Strength.

Shame they broke, Looks like the kind that are easy to put rubber booties on to seal the sut and grit out so you can fill em with Corrosion-X grease so they never wear out... Until they actually break that is..... If your Hyper ST is brushless you can use any spare rear upper arm turnbuckles to make sweet extra chassis braces (with the longer plastic bit on both ends for the rear), from the little aluminum tube/space thing that the bolt that holds the rear chassis brace to the gearbox goes through.. To the Unused nitro Brake gubbins hole in the middle of the center diff plate... For connecting the turnbuckle to the center diff plate I use an M3 cap head Bolt through a Ball end like the ones that the turnbuckle is connected to the shocktower with. Then an M4 Nut underneath the ball end to fill in the ole of the center plate. then a thick wide washer, then an M3 Nylock nut from underneath to clamp it all together onto the plate.... I also do something similar for the front so the center diff mount can't be pushed over and forwards from an extreme rear impact. They work great, and have a little give in them to absorb energy rather than just transferring it on to the next part to break.... Might want to fill in the hollow bit of the longer plastic part of the turnbuckle with shoegoo or E6000 though to beef it up ( clean part with 99% alcohol so the goo sticks stronk, sellotape over one side of the hollow, then pour in shoegoo to fill it up)

Alright aye, been a while now... Take it the ST is treating you alright?

I could use the Wingmount pieces Because I'm going to double up the wing mount "plates" by using a hacksaw to cut off the "screw to bulkhead" section of the extra set of "plates" and the bit that extends to the rear chassis brace, as well as shave off a bit at the back so they fit against the non recessed part of the shock tower... Then shoegoo them together (while also filling the holes in the plates with shoegoo, by putting tape over one side of the spaces and pouring the shoegoo in till it fills the space. And then replacing the stock spacers in between the two sets of "plates"with shorter stouter non thinned 20mm long M4 Nylon spacers to compensate for the thicker "plates" with a few M4 washers to fine tune the length and an M4 flat nut to fill in the hex shaped hole in the plates. Then use 50mm and 60mm long fully threadded M4 Bolts and Nylock nuts + washers through the whole thing to hold it tight and stronk as Buull !. If you are using an RTR Hyper ST you can use a 3.5mm Drill bit to drill down into the wing mount screw holes, extending them through the Gearbox Shocktower mounting lugs, and then though the shock tower support structure itself, and use a longer screw, making it a LOT harder to pull out, to go with your strengthened wing mount structure. Then to help protect against upside down landings while moving forwards where the wing mount can get pulled backwards maybe some marine grade steel cable ties going around lowermost spacer between the plates and then around the shock tower horns, with just a little slack so the wing mount can flex a fair way, but then pull on the shock towers and flex those and hopefully stop the wing mount reaching its breaking point. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QUALITY-STAINLESS-STEEL-CABLE-TIES-MARINE-GRADE-METAL-ZIP-TIE-WRAPS-EXHAUST/114127340446?var=414384787432&hash=item1a9285039e:g:acMAAOSwC4BecmLv I also use those steel cable ties around the motor to the center chassis brace, with a flat rubber lump between the chassis and the motor, helps keep the motor in place in lawn dartings and heavy back end landings. For great robustness!

Alright aye 👍 What does the standard spare joblot include? I love having extra Gubbins to experiment with, Right now I'm tinkering with chassis bracing, You can do some amazing stuff with the rear turnbuckles with the longer bend end piece on both ends. Right now I'm putting 4 extra braces on, 2 either side of the rear brace to bulkhead connection, to the two rearmost of the 4 screws of the center diff mount, then something very similar for the front. I like using the longer bent plastic turnbuckle ends, with the hollows filled with shoegoo because they flex and squish a bit on impact, and act like extremely stiff short travel shock absorbers that allow a little, High resistance chassis flex to dissipate the energy without letting the chassis flex so far that it stays bent or kinks a driveshaft.. Beats pure Alu chassis bracing that just transfers the energy to another part that then breaks... Pretty lightweight too, that along with using slightly smaller lighter 4000mah batteries with higher C-rating to compensate helps as well.

Any luck getting this going? Or ran into more problems you need a hand with?

How big are your batteries? If they are just little 2cell 2000 odd mah batteries. LiPo bags are alright. but any bigger and I'd skip LiPo bags entirely as they are not reliable. Check out the video in my sig. You are better off getting Steel Ammo Cans and taking the rubber seal out to allow the pressure to vent. Pretty cheap too considering what you get https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMMO-BOX-Army-50-Cal-Pre-Used-Ammo-Can-Military-Surplus-Storage-Box-Tool-Box/123903845471?hash=item1cd93ea45f:g:HJIAAOSwpwRb7dXn

Oh sorry about that, I got caught up with other things... 3.275v per cell is about 40% on the battery. Based on this chart of a 4 cell Li-FE https://diysolarforum.com/threads/lifepo4-voltage-chart.3156/ Though that has to be measured at no load, so you would have to use a multimeter on the terminals. It's kind of hard to measure the remaining capacity from just voltage. So just be gentle with them for the first several cycles and you should be golden.

I thought the video had been reversed after the impact for comedic effect, but no the car actually did that.... Nutty.

One thing I like about Hypers is the experimentation with swapping parts around between them, Like My nephews Hotrod style Hyper 7 has buggy wheels in the front and monster truck wheels at the back, but can still have 4WD without spinning the internals of the center diff like mad, because the rear end is running the lower gear ratio Hyper ST pinion and crown gear on the rear diff. So both sets of wheels have the same ground speed vrs center shaft rotation.

I wonder if the Kronos wing mount would fit on the Hyper ST with a little work... What's the spacing between the two mounting holes on the Corally wing mount?