Isle of Wight Basher

The standard brushless set up is more than enough for this car, https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-photon-2-1w-system-with-13-0r-2950kv-motor-45a-esc/rc-car-products/383631 However I'd go these https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-wp-10bl60-bl-esc/rc-car-products/382833 and https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-photon-2-1-sensorless-1-10-13r-2950kv-motor/rc-car-products/385714 As for upgrades some will say you need the metal prop-shaft https://www.modelsport.co.uk/0/rc-car-products/406604 but I ran mine fine with that motor for many runs without issue, I did fit one in the end and found it showed significant signs of wear in a short time. I'm not saying the plastic one won't break but I'd suggest either get spare plastic ones or a metal one from another manufacturer.

Is the slipper clutch ok ? if it's set to loose or the pads are worn/contaminated that could explain it

Wow, love the detailing and the papers in the front are class, have you any close ups of the cab ?

It depends on the diff and what you want, as above if you want to tune the diff action and the diff is a sealed type then different grades of silicon oil will change the diff action. However if the diff does not seal, then use grease. For an open diff the grease you use on your motorcycles will be fine (in any diff), and different viscosity greases will give you a stiffer diff.

I have indeed and love it, the Black/Chrome look is a favorite of mine. I'll be starting with a Euro truck but no doubt it won't stop there

Great build, I'm considering my first Tamiya Truck so this thread is of great interest to me RC4WD fan, I reckon it's 1 & 1/2 pairs of pears.

Have you got the steering reversed, ie, when you turn the transmitter wheel left the bikes front wheel turns right ? To launch the bike, hold it in your hand & spin up the back to get the gyro to full speed launch the bike and get on the throttle. Have a read of this thread for some tips,

Watching with interest as I'll be getting one Is the motor 380 size, and are the rear wheels a 12mm hex ?

As long as the total cost including postage is less than 15 GBP there will be no charges

For me it depends on the usage of the model, if it's a basher then I'm in the dirty camp, I do check them over and rinse/lube when and where necessary, and as mentioned earlier in the thread they'll get a full strip down every so often. However race cars will get a full strip down between meetings, i.e the 6 p's, or "to finish first first you have to finish" so hopefully the only limiting factor when racing is me.

Aaah, that's interesting The amount and size of holes in the base makes a difference to the amount of suction needed, as does the volume of the base, same as downdraft tables. Agreed the body he did was basic indeed, but it was just an example to show vacuum forming can be done at home with a diy setup, a more detailed plug and using mould release wax or suchlike means more detailed shells can be made.

Why would you need an air compressor to suck ? RC Bodies can be vacuum formed at home using a Vacuum Cleaner., and a mould/plug can be made in smaller pieces, and then finished with body filler etc. I'll be making a vacuum former when time allows.

That looks great with the grey cage, nice build thread too My Baja Rey is very tough, I've yet to have a bashing session end due to breakages.

Great minds and all that. I use a shower head in the bath to rinse mine off.

Great truck, I had one, the only issues I had was when using a LRP 28 motor the diffs didn't like it. The solution was to use longer screws to hold the ring gear to the diff case, also the shock towers would bend quite easily so I made a brace that ran between the front and rear towers. The body and engine's long gone but I've still most of the truck and was thinking of a brushless conversion one day. There's a few parts on ebay for the XTM Mammoth (same truck)