darkangelv24

I really like the idea of that 5SC, not so keen on the pink though, but you are quite far away. So many other nice things also hmm

My guess, not seeing pics is its probably a HPI sprint or sprint 2 here is a sprint on Ebay someone is selling so it it looks similar we are on the right track. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154891998806?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749368&toolid=20006&customid=GB_220_154891998806.151313577308~1871005638419-g_Cj0KCQjw5f2lBhCkARIsAHeTvliUA9mub5ys2g9eqCxD0zzy5_QULuWqRGbPO8cZeVftnvE1GpwpDXAaAg98EALw_wcB From what i remember of my rally sprint it was a cracking car, should be able to take some modern electrics no problem. If its more of a tub chassis with a longitudinal battery its likely an E10 https://www.hpiracing.com/en/discontinued

Lipo batterys should be safe to go down to 3V per cell, but i always set my cut offs around 3.2/3.4V per cell. so for a 2s battery 6.4/6.8V when discharged. Never let them drop below 3V per cell. You should be able to charge up and use again straight away if you want, or as said above you can charge up and put in storage mode if not using for a while. My advice, make sure you are using a proper Lipo battery charger and plug the balance leads in for charge, get yourself a battery voltage checker, and use a lipo charging bag/box when charging /storing the Lipo's

if your still looking iv got an En rote Berg slider, I'm on holiday at the mo but can sort some pic/info out next week.

Like Stimpy i have had no issues with the axles, i know some people have but also some people are idiots and without seeing how they have done it who is to say its not their fault. I have however beaten a bit on several other axial trucks over the years and don't think i have ever broken an axle. Yes the gearing is high but it still crawls fine, i do keep tossing up the idea of putting a 3 gear in with dig, Also one thing i have found it the gearbox is noisy, even swapping to the ally box i can't seem to make it quiet as i would like, though i have seen others i don't think suffer this. might pull it apart sometime and take a look. Personally i would go kit as i like the build, would prob swap out the electrics anyway and dont need another TX/RX

Hi Steve, Sorry posted the other week then ran without thought of checking back to see how you got on. Looks like you are possibly honing in on a capra - good choice. Though the Vanquish and the Ecto also don't look bad at all. honestly think you will probably enjoy any of them. I would probably be looking at increasing the fleet with a vanquish if i hadn't just added a Ryft and GOM to the list. I know someone who runs a gatekeeper which shares alot of similarities with the ecto and loves it, As for my capra i have boom racing high mass beadlocks (2.2's) with Hustler tyres, hobbywing AXE 2300kv combo, 46kg JX servo, longer rod ends (increases the wheelbase a bit so it looks better proportioned on 2.2's). i have also fitted the TGH wild overdrive gears with about 30% front overdrive. I do have a vitavon gearbox and a flat skid on there, my stock gearbox was a bit noisy and i couldnt fix it, these came up at a decent price, Though I'm still tempted to maybe swap in an Axial 3 gear trans at some point. i also have some brass portal covers for the front but not decided if i want to fit them yet. As i said before i have found the hobbywing AXE combo's to be pretty faultless and smoother control than my castle slate combo's, but the castle/holmes combo as Stimpy said is probably a lighter setup if your after the out and out performance. If you go with a brushed set up for now until the V3's Stimpy was talking about are released i would go 1080 esc and a cheap 35T motor or 16T 5slot motor, the 1080 esc is about £40 and the motors you can pick up for less than £20. (personally i wouldn't buy one of the sealed can crawlmaster motors when i can get get a openable ones for less money and get it tweaked and tuned a little)

Hi Steve It really does depend on where you plan to run and what that terrain looks like. I have come originally from the Comp crawling world but that mostly died off in the UK 9ish years ago, when the emergence of Scale crawers came about. I still have 2 XR10's that i love to use when i get a chance. For most people 'crawling' is a broad term that all the Comp crawlers and scale crawlers sit under, as stimpy said it can be further split down into a number of classes. Comp Crawler - I do not go near wood/ trails at all with it, only ever big piles of rocks, sea defenses, quarry's and the like. Although where the 'crawling' hobby started I would now say a niche part of the hobby. slow, controlled, wheel placement and knowing your rig is everything. Those that get it love it and its awesome fun but its not for everyone. Now if your looking at the Scale crawler scene which is the majority of the market then there is so much choice and generally each vehicle will have its pro's and cons, but most are pretty good. few things to note. if you go for a 2.2 rig it will generally do better in the big rocky sections (Wraith, Gmade GOM, Yeti, Bomber etc) but will just walk over most other obstacles like there is nothing there. Most people stick to 1.9 rigs, of which there is a huge variety now, these will be more engaging in the forest etc but may struggle a bit in the quarry all depending how big the rocks are. Last weekend at the scale nationals i was out running My Yeti, and swapped cars with someone for an hour or so to a TRX4 Defender, its totally different in what each vehicle can do, the defender walked up some stuff the yeti struggles with and then the next section the opposite. I don't think there are an truly bad kits out there there are all just different and have their own unique attributes so find one you like the look of buy it, build it, run it then tweak it when it doesn't quite run how you like. That's part of the joy of 'cralwers' is making it your own, very rare you will see two that are identical unless there are both box fresh and sometime some subtle changes can totally change how it drives. out of what you have listed: I would def say Capra over an R1, i have had an R1 in the past and it was ok but i moved it on eventually, I have a capra and its much more capable. i didn't really buy mine for trailing, but i know others who do run it for that. I stuck 2.2 on mine and stretched the wheelbase a bit to use more for rock crawling, the kit is also a nice build. New VS4-10 looks very interesting, i know someone with a pro and an ultra and they both go very well. but the new phoenix has the new gearbox which looks awesome and vanquish build quality is generally some one the best. and it look well thought out with the brass axle inner for strength and low down weight. The Hobbywing AXE system is pretty great for these rigs, have one in a trx4 and capra, seems to actually perform a bit better than the mamba X combo i have in my wraith and yeti for a considerable amount less money. 1 suggestion, if you can find a local group tag along with them for a morning, someone may even lend you a car, i will if you want to come down Birmingham way. that would give you a change to see multiple vehicles run, and maybe try a few out.

@Gaz! you should have a message from me, If you would be so kind as to respond. Looking forward to seeing your beautiful face.

Its something I noticed on most of the built Sporty and MOA rigs and things like the super shafty link riser for the capra. As you know iv had the XR10 since about the death of the comp crawling scene 8ish years ago. went from a very well setup ax10 sporty with DNA SSS torsion chassis to the XR10, to be honest iv never been happy with it, It sucked quite badly at steep climbs before, tendency to roll backwards too much when it shouldn't have, never felt like it was working to its full potential. since designing and fitting the link riser its been much better, like at black rocks it made climbs iv never made before. here is the blurb supershafty say about the capra one and the same logic seems to have done the job on the XR10.: "This piece is designed to Move those Rear upper links up above the truss.Help your "Goat" climb like a real Billygoat. This piece will allow for additional anti-squat adjustment.Which if you are not familiar with the terminology will help keep the front end more planted on a upwards climb, instead of the rear end squatting and allowing the front end to pick up"

Am I right it thinking extending the height of the rear upper links at the axle will also help by creating more separation between upper and lowers. done this on My XR10 and its made a noticeable difference.

Looking for recommendations as to who does Custom RC body shell painting, preferably someone near South Birmingham that I could drop some shells with, but can post if needs be.

not at all, been running mine totally stock other than adding a light kit, got a new steering servo to out in it but so far the stock one has been ok. Also as Gaz said needs weight sorting out if running the stock shell. i will be putting some beadlocks on and getting some weight low down, but hasn't stopped me enjoying it in stock form.

Stretch, I tried to PM you but says you can't receive messages, possibly interested in the e-savage bits and want to know what lipo's you have left, and their sizes if possible. Cheers

Payment sent for 100, so fed up of getting ripped off for packs of like 8 clips for

Hi i have for sake 2 Land Rover roof racks, a SWB one and a LWB one, both are galvanized and come with a ladder. The SWB one clamps to the gutter rail and the LWB one bolts through the gutter rail. SWB one comes with 2 spot lights on the front and brackets for two more. the LWB one comes with 4 spot lights on the front and a work light on the back. Collection from South Birmingham or I can deliver withing reasonable distance if fuel costs are covered.