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Si Coe

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Si Coe last won the day on August 16 2011

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About Si Coe

  • Birthday 06/11/1974

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    Wigan
  • Interests
    Mountain Biking
    Dogs, Cats, Chinchillas
  • RC Cars
    Yz4 Yz2 Cobra 4210 DEX210 DEX410 RC10 RC10T Mini Trophy Wheely King Blizzard Tz4 Manta Ray GT24B
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    sicoe61174

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  1. I think it's also got something to do with AP Racing who make clutches and brakes for full size race cars. Certainly the original AE logo looks very similar to the logo AP were using at the time, a logo seen on lots of race cars.
  2. The price sounds good, features look decent but its going to be tiny. Won't be able to use it for digging the flowerbeds, just the odd plant pot.....
  3. You do appear to be building my Manta Ray - all the upgrades are the same as mine, in fact the only difference is mines on brushless. Even the same radio and servo...... However mine has been altered to run on a 'brick pack'. I'm using a low profile shorty lipo like this which fits inside the centre part of the chassis and is held in by the top deck. It required cutting a few small holes for the leads but otherwise is much neater and clearer than even the stock battery layout.
  4. IR beams rather than LED's would work better. However as you've noted the range is quite short and you'll want plenty of width for the track. If you want to use a loop system it doesn't need embedding in the ground. Whilst my old clubs outdoor loop is buried under the astroturf the indoor version is simply taped to the underside of a heavy rubber mat. Totally portable and very robust. Another idea we've also used is to make a gantry for the loop out of PVC pipe and run it over the track rather than under it. There is an IR based timing system which uses an overhead gantry and IR transponders in the cars. I've seen plans online to DIY such a system but it was a while back so can't recall the specifics.
  5. Outdoors: Bury Metro 1/10th buggys. race every other Sunday (check calendar). Northwest Nitro 1/8 nitros Indoors: Ribble Valley 1/10 buggys and 1/12 GT Friday evening (books up fast)
  6. I wouldn't put a 6.5t in a 210 regardless of the esc - its too much of a handful anywhere except super grippy astroturf with fresh (no more than 2-3 runs) race spec tyres. I started with a 7.5t in mine and moved down to an 8.5t. If you aren't racing even that might be a bit much - the 210 (and most other modern racing 2wds) are designed to get the majority of their rear end grip from the tyres meaning they wear fast and need a constant supply.
  7. They aren't cross compatible if thats what you are asking. HPI didn't simply 'clone' the T4, they made their own model but clearly whoever designed it had a T4 sat on the desk at the time! Anyway the best indicator of the difference if philosophy between the two trucks is to look at which bits are metal. The HPI has an all metal drivetrain, the T4 has a metal layshaft gear but the idler and diff case are plastic. Metal gears are stronger, which is good for hard landings under power - both trucks feature a slipper clutch that should protect the gears but only if set correctly. HPI expects their users to be too busy having fun and doing wheelies to tinker with slipper settings. In contrast the plastic T4 gearbox has a much lower rotating mass, so it will accelerate better which is useful on a race track. Racers fiddle with slipper settings anyway so slightly weaker gears isn't a problem there. The shocks are the opposite - plastic bodied on the HPI, alloy on the T4. The T4's shocks are much more precise, smoother and more adjustable. However a bad crash will at worse rip the caps off the HPI shocks, whereas the T4 you risk bending a shock shaft. The HPI comes with a slightly faster motor out of the box (4000kv vs 3300kv) and includes much higher gearing for top speed runs, whereas the T4 is geared quite low as stock for acceleration. There isn't much between the two motors though and with some gearing adjustment they can perform the same. The result is that the T4 is a good truck if want finesse and you try to take care of stuff. Its not weak by any means and will survive the odd bad landing just fine but not outright abuse. The Firestorm meanwhile is ideal if you want to sling it over jumps without worrying where or how it lands, hack about having a laugh until the battery runs flat and then put it away 'til next time. Very different approaches.
  8. Comparing the Firestorm to the RC10T4.3 is interesting, because the Firestorm started life based on the original T4. The two models have developed in very different directions though with the HPI becoming tougher but more bashing orientated, the Associated more focused on racing. Stadium truck technology (at least the non-racing side of it) hasn't improved much at all in years. Thats because the basic rear motor, central lengthways battery layout offers the best platform for a rear wheel drive vehicle designed for running on loose surfaces and jumping a lot. My original 1992 RC10T is quite capable of hanging with the modern T4's, Firestorms and Rustlers. On a track its blown away by the newer mid motor designs but these only work well in high traction, which isn't the case dirt jumping. I keep hearing rumors that Associated are planning the re-release the RC10T, like they have other versions of the alloy tub RC10. If they do, that would actually be my truck of choice. Yes its a really old design, but tough as nails all the same.
  9. Lots of Vauxhall Zafiras in that price range. Small for an MPV but fold the seats out the way and you've got van levels of storage. Wouldn't bother with the Focus estate myself. My father in law has one, whilst I have the C-Max. There is more space in the C-Max and its no more expensive. Its taller but the same chassis so handles just as well.
  10. I use mine on the beach otherwise I'd never get to run it.....
  11. My Blizzard came to work with me today in the hope of a quick bash at the end of the day but the snow had all gone More forecast for later so putting a few extra packs on charge.
  12. I have a Wheelie King and its a lot more capable as a monster truck than the original 'HPI Lunchbox clone' idea might suggest. Remember HPI make a crawler based on the same chassis. The trick is to use a shorty lipo instead of a full size NiMH pack. This brings the CoG down and forward making it a lot more stable. They are also really tough - the only damage mine has taken apart from a wrecked shell as all down to salt corrosion from running at the beach. Turns out they float and paddle well but then all the gears and bearings rust up
  13. Yes, they aren't the best motors I'm general but cheap and lots of torque. They don't last that long.
  14. Titans would better as they are longer 550 cans and have more torque. I used HPI's simply because l had a pair of identical motors sitting around.
  15. It's not the motor you need to worry about, its the gears. I did the same to my boys ride on, it became a lot quicker. I used a pair of HPI 15t motors I'd lifted for rtrs - Titans would be good too. But the cheap plastic gears blew and genuine parts are hard to find. I got some claimed to fit but don't.
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