• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

51 Excellent

About louder

  • Rank
    MSUK Regular
  • Birthday 22/08/90

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Chester, North West, UK
  • eBay Username

Previous Fields

  • How did you find this forum?
    modelsport website
  1. I really like the look of this. Pretty cool.
  2. I MUST HAVE ONE...it's almost as good at the AE pencils you can get.
  3. Yep, start with the plastic kit, there are a few upgrades for the D3 I would recommend. The wide angle steering drives and alloy steering and then the rear bulkhead with tensioner but it is good to go otherwise!
  4. It's ok. I think that colour doesn't help it. I also think the front grill is a bit ugly. Other than that I don't mind it. In like a flaming bright orange I can see it sitting pretty well with some sponsor logos on it.
  5. Oh yeah I understand it's shock set up related but even with hard shocks there is some weight shift and for drifting I find it to be useful. I was intrigued because the weight it just so low. On a lot of midship set ups the weight is higher thanks to the motor position and you find the weight transitions can be really aggressive.
  6. The ones that are carbon & alloy prebuilts are copies yes. The all plastic design isn't a bad thing. It keeps it light and keeps the flex where it is needed. The only alloy parts I run are the steering, the rear bulkhead with tensioner and pulleys. Everything else i have left plastic. The alloy parts just add weight that you can't move around. The carbon chassis, while nice, overall don't make too much of a difference. I find the stock plastic chassis is better simply because it has less flex and as a result gives me more control over the ride as you can't adjust chassis flex but you can adjust suspension. Plus the stock chassis have slightly curved edges underneath and I find if I am on a poor surface and I haven't swept well the chassis tends to ride over any small stones rather than hit them (on a very low ride height). That is down to personal preference. I have had the laminate on an SSG chassis split on an impact which I felt was pretty bad. The carbon chassis also require you to change the battery mount to carbon as well, meaning you have to buy yet more parts and seeing as I am perfectly happy with the stock chassis I don't feel it's worth the upgrade.
  7. Mixed results. If the page loads quickly the main rotating adverts overlap the images to the side. If it loads slowly (can take some time) it adjusts and doesn't so this. Overall the site seems to load slower on my laptop but faster on my iPad. Overall I would say I preferred the previous site. The drop downs on over can be a little annoying so far and I have to scroll down to access some things from the menu which means if I have my mouse in the wrong place I lose the menu as I scroll. MacBook Retina on Safari + Chrome. The Website loads faster on chrome but then has formatting issues. iPad Air on Safari is fine. It all works fine on window 8 + 7 for me in chrome at 1920x1080 + 3840x2160 respectively.
  8. No they don't I have spoken to him about it but from what I can see the shop is struggling. He mainly does wargaming stuff and a new wargaming store just opened in Vicars Cross and is cheaper than him for some stuff and they have parking. Not sure how long he will last. There used to be another model shop by the new Aldi in Chester but again, not enough interest. I tend to find in the North West there just isn't that much interest in RC when compared with further up North and down South!
  9. Well when you brake, power off, accelerate, turn in or power over the car leans and shifts weight. It allows you to control where the drag is. Going fast out of a corner and need to switch direction? A quick tap of the brakes or power off throws the weight forward and gives your front wheels more grip and turn in ability. When all the weight its right in the middle you severely dampen this ability, control and the effects of it. I just wondered how well you can get it to shift weight even with a tight suspension set up. Weight shifting is controlled with tiny blips of throttle, brake and hard steering. It's useful is you are also about to hit an incline or drop and it can stop speed loss etc.
  10. Yes the DIB is a great car. If you are looking for something with CS I would push you towards the 3Racing D3 CS sport. Fantastic chassis for the money. It did really well at the winter D1RC and upgrades are really cheap. It is an outstanding chassis and great value for money and means you have some more cash to spend on electronics and upgrades. It's good to hear Radshape have a lot of upgrades for it though. I didn't know they had them there so thanks for the info!
  11. Not a problem at all, that is what we are all here for. Everyone on here is dead friendly so if you have any questions just ask. The guys at Radshape should be able to sort you out. Good luck!
  12. I would say don't cut them. I never cut motor wires. I always panic, there is a rule about them being bend/stiff but I am always concerned I will get it the wrong way round!
  13. Hey, 1/10 is the most popular scale to drift at. There are lots of parts for the cars and drifting started with people putting hard tyres on 1/10 touring cars! You can convert almost any car to a drifter. The requirements are 4WD, locked rear diff and drift tyres. If you have some old 1/10 chassis around it is always worth a play for the cost of some blue tack and some T-Drift tyres. There is no 'best' drift chassis. I have a AWD mini-z and while it is fun, it doesn't see much use. Hair and dust gets caught in the driveline and causes lock ups and it requires regular up keep (every 30 odd mins). It is a little better on hard wood floors but the standard power and weight balance doesn't drive like a 1/10 drifter. The Mini-z requires more high speed turn ins, simply because the cars lack power and slow down so much through the drifts. This is more like the Japanese style of mountain drifting but sadly the amount of smooth, clean space required for such a small car always seems uneconomical to me. They don't really work on tarmac either. Drive wise there is no winner. People tend to prefer belts simply because the power delivery is smoother as the slight flex in the drive system automatically gives the driver some wiggle room while driving. Shaft cars tend to be more aggressive on the power and a bit more unforgiving, you also get a but more rolling resistance with a shaft car. It is a simple fact that gear diffs just aren't as smooth as pulleys. Take a look at this http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/197554-drift-chassis-overview/ As regards chassis, if you are going to spend some money go for 1/10. I would say avoid entry levels and go for something mid range. The HPI Sprint 2 is a great chassis to start with and if you find you don't like drift it doesn't take much to be a grip racer (you can always switch back and forth!). I would generally advise against getting a race chassis to convert. Most drift chassis have wider steering ratios and different suspension geometry. When you get to pure racers like the Mi chassis they take quite a bit of work and fiddling to get the most out of them. If you can get a Sprint 2 roller on eBay that would be a great starting point. Yokomo parts support in the UK is just awful. Getting the kits are fine but waiting for parts on order is just killer when you want to drive. Yokomo also tend to drop kits pretty quickly (the high end ones at a least) meaning upgrading to the latest model is always pushed on you. The MST-01D RTR is good but with a bit of work you can get the Sprint 2 in a similar weight layout. While you might not want to do the work, for me it just puts a mark next to the MST. It's
  14. They really are, the design harkens back to grip racers of the early 2000's when people were converting Xrays and a like. These chassis aren't developed for drifting so are really snappy and aggressive as ultimately they aren't balanced to go sideways meaning they take some work to keep them there but with some good set up can hold an angle and snap back and forth really well. The shift to midship layouts was simply to aid smooth drifting and make it look more realistic, so its arguable if these newer chassis are 'better' or not. My only question about the XXX is how well does it shift weight? The electronics are very much in the middle and there is a small gap before you get to the towers, as a result I always wondered how well they do it.
  15. Hey, you can find a quick breakdown of different chassis here http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/197554-drift-chassis-overview/ There is no 'best' drifter. Just one that suits you best. MST do some amazing drifters, the HPI Sprint 2 is a great drift platform for the money and the 3Racing Sakura is fantastic. Best off first setting a budget, then working out what weight layout you want. The TT-01 isn't outdated it just can become a money pit quite easily. A TA-05 is a good chassis and you can get VDF kits to make it a TA-05 VDF which is a fantastic drifting chassis. Personally I run a D3 and I have just picked up a second one. For the price they are good kits and easy to build. Out of the box there are only a few minor issues and the front weight balance drivers great. It can also be converted to a RWD chassis with up to 80/85 degrees of steering. Parts support is pretty good and upgrades are cheap! The MST drifters get a lot of love and have great parts support thanks to MST in the UK. Yokomo kits are second to none but parts can be a pain to get and very expensive.