Tamiya Fighter buggy RX

[Rc noob14]

Hi, I'm new to the rc world and I am looking for advice on how to update my old rc car with new modern parts, so I can pass it down to my nephew in the next few years.

Edited January 16, 2017 by Rc noob14

[evssv]

welcome dude......tbh I`d stick a 2.4g tx/rx on it..20-25quid...and a esc.....unless it has one already....then get a few 2s lipos for more power/longer run times.........theres not a lot u can do to this really.....jus let him use it as it is....then if he enjoys/destroys it....then get him a stronger 1/10th maybe.....hpi firestorm....traxxas slash....

[Rc noob14]

sorry but what do you mean "2.4g tx/rx"?

 

[evssv]

26 minutes ago, Rc noob14 said:

sorry but what do you mean "2.4g tx/rx"?

 

if its a older Tamiya it probly has the old 27mhz stick controller.....which can get a lot of interference ..but this  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Flysky-FS-GT2B-2-4G-3CH-System-Transmitter-Receiver-for-RC-Car-Boat-BF-/262449640597?hash=item3d1b37b495:g:GuUAAOSwEOxXQfwF is newer tec so no interference.....plus less aa batterys to buy...well actually none as it has a lipo to run it and u charge it in the tx[controller]

Edited January 16, 2017 by evssv

[evssv]

6 minutes ago, Rc noob14 said:

sorry but what do you mean "2.4g tx/rx"?

 

tx=controller

rx=the receiver in the car

plus the 2.4 don't use the old crystals like the one stick ones as below

...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acoms-AP-227F-Technidrive-Digital-RC-System-Remote-Control-Handset-Transmitter-/132063860205?hash=item1ebf9e95ed:g:iGsAAOSw44BYdh80

 

Edited January 16, 2017 by evssv

[XV Pilot]

The Fighter Buggy RX is based on the DT-01 chassis - an oldie but goodie, still in production as it is used on the Mad Bull which remains popular with beginners due to its extremely robust construction and ease of maintenance. It is a good car to pass down to a youngster as it is unlikely to break, and if it ever does, parts are cheap and plentiful.

 

I would recommend the following upgrades:

 

Ball bearings:

Hopefully you built the car with ball bearings at the outset, but if you didn't, now is the time to get rid of the stock plastic and bronze bushings, and put in a set of rubber sealed bearings instead. A full set of quality rubber sealed bearings for the DT-01 goes for about £7 from RCBearings.co.uk.

 

Steel pinion:

The stock soft alloy pinion used by the DT-01 lasts better than most due to its coarse 0.8 module pitch, but it is still worth fitting a steel one as it will last longer and extend the life of your spur gear. Genuine Tamiya ones can usually be had for about £3.

 

ESC:

Depending on the age of your car, it may have been supplied with a mechanical speed controller driven by a second servo. An electronic speed controller is more reliable, more efficient and safer as most come with a built-in failsafe which stops the car from running away if there is a radio problem. If sticking with brushed technology, a Quikrun 1060 would be a good bet as it is waterproof, LiPo-ready, rated down to 12 turns and quite affordable at about £15 to £20 depending on whether you order from here or abroad.

 

Motor:

How old is the nephew in question? If a youngster, you may want to slow the car down while he learns to drive it by fitting a high-turn motor of 55 to 80 turns. Conversely, if he is a bit older and more capable, he might enjoy the extra speed offered by a motor in the low 20s. Either way, the rebuildable brushed motors from Absima offer good value and quality for the price, which is usually around £15. You can get cheaper non-rebuildable motors, but these are much harder to clean if you need to get stones or other debris out of them, and are typically thrown away when they wear out.

 

Brushless combo:

Alternatively, if you want to move to brushess tech, you may want to look at a motor/ESC combo. Brushless motors are more efficient than brushed ones giving longer runtimes all else being equal, and require less maintenance. A relatively decent combo can be had for under £50 these days. Just don't get carried away with the power - while the car's gearbox is more than up to the task, the suspension is pretty basic and the car becomes frustratingly uncontrollable if pushed too fast. Judging by how well my F103 performs on 21.5t brushless power, I reckon that you wouldn't need more than that in a DT-01.

 

Oil shocks:

While the suspension is basic, it can still be improved a bit by swapping out the stock pogo sticks for a set of oil dampers. Tamiya CVAs are well-suited to the task, as are the budget alloy dampers from Fastrax/Ansmann/Absima once you rebuild them with proper seals. Just match the shock length to that of the stock items - 95mm at the rear and 70mm at the front if memory serves.

 

Batteries:

A lot of people will tell you to go for LiPo, but while the high energy density of LiPo batteries makes them pretty much the only choice for a racer these days, that same energy density makes them very volatile and prone to catching fire if mistreated. You might want to consider sticking with the older, heavier but also safer NiMH battery chemistry in a car destined to be used by a youngster where safety is perhaps more important than the ultimate in performance.

 

I think that pretty much covers it, in addition to the 2.4GHz radio mentioned previously by evssv of course. Let us know if you have any more questions!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 17, 2017 by XV Pilot