Steve Cole Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Hi all, My head is turning to mush trying to find all the information i need... Ok so My questions; 1) Me and some friends fancy a go at drifting, however we can't decide on scale... I really fancy Mini-Z drifting however the others are struggling to come round to the idea of spending Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_hawk111 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Check out mst too, very good chassis, a few configurations and belt or shaft drive, I converted an old tamiya to a drift car and although it did drift, it's nothing like the mst chassis I have had since! Search Max speed technology or soul rc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizashah Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Dont buy a Tamiya TT01ED or Hpi. I made the same mistake they are very basic drifters and tend to need a lot of upgrades. Get the MST RTR Package for 250 of Soulrc.com or maxspeedtechnology.com it comes ready to go with everything apart from batterys and charger. You get to pick from a range of bodies (I went for the white bmw e30) and if you want you can put in a extra 50 quid and get the brushless version. I didnt buy it from them though I risked it and ordered it from Hobbybest on ebay from Taiwan it was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Personally for your first one I'd go for a Sakura D3 CS, great chassis to start with and won't break the bank. Plus you can use them outside because scratch a bit of plastic that's cheap to replace won't hurt as much as scratching an expensive piece of carbon fibre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_hawk111 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Personally for your first one I'd go for a Sakura D3 CS, great chassis to start with and won't break the bank. Plus you can use them outside because scratch a bit of plastic that's cheap to replace won't hurt as much as scratching an expensive piece of carbon fibre. I just jack mine up and put little scratches on the carbon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louder Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 (edited) Hey, 1/10 is the most popular scale to drift at. There are lots of parts for the cars and drifting started with people putting hard tyres on 1/10 touring cars! You can convert almost any car to a drifter. The requirements are 4WD, locked rear diff and drift tyres. If you have some old 1/10 chassis around it is always worth a play for the cost of some blue tack and some T-Drift tyres. There is no 'best' drift chassis. I have a AWD mini-z and while it is fun, it doesn't see much use. Hair and dust gets caught in the driveline and causes lock ups and it requires regular up keep (every 30 odd mins). It is a little better on hard wood floors but the standard power and weight balance doesn't drive like a 1/10 drifter. The Mini-z requires more high speed turn ins, simply because the cars lack power and slow down so much through the drifts. This is more like the Japanese style of mountain drifting but sadly the amount of smooth, clean space required for such a small car always seems uneconomical to me. They don't really work on tarmac either. Drive wise there is no winner. People tend to prefer belts simply because the power delivery is smoother as the slight flex in the drive system automatically gives the driver some wiggle room while driving. Shaft cars tend to be more aggressive on the power and a bit more unforgiving, you also get a but more rolling resistance with a shaft car. It is a simple fact that gear diffs just aren't as smooth as pulleys. Take a look at this http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/197554-drift-chassis-overview/ As regards chassis, if you are going to spend some money go for 1/10. I would say avoid entry levels and go for something mid range. The HPI Sprint 2 is a great chassis to start with and if you find you don't like drift it doesn't take much to be a grip racer (you can always switch back and forth!). I would generally advise against getting a race chassis to convert. Most drift chassis have wider steering ratios and different suspension geometry. When you get to pure racers like the Mi chassis they take quite a bit of work and fiddling to get the most out of them. If you can get a Sprint 2 roller on eBay that would be a great starting point. Yokomo parts support in the UK is just awful. Getting the kits are fine but waiting for parts on order is just killer when you want to drive. Yokomo also tend to drop kits pretty quickly (the high end ones at a least) meaning upgrading to the latest model is always pushed on you. The MST-01D RTR is good but with a bit of work you can get the Sprint 2 in a similar weight layout. While you might not want to do the work, for me it just puts a mark next to the MST. It's Edited August 18, 2014 by louder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cole Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Guys thank you so much for the advise! especially "Louder" i have seen a lot of upgrades available for the sprint I'm not shy of tinkering mind however i have no idea what i am doing with a drifter (yet) so i think that a sprint or MST would be a good starting point... I was considering the Mi2 as i still have a load of spares from my old touring car days but i think as you have pointed out they were designed for high grip in mind not to get the arse end sliding. Very good point about the mini-z i never thought about that.. i.e the cleaning and i know they need some upgrades out the box. Faster motor, one way, spool, bearings and drift tyres etc... they just looked so cool plus you don't need chargers, lipo's etc.. I am going over to Radshape RC today as they are only 20 mins down the road and they have 2 drifting tracks and i know there are many people who go down there which are into the drifting scene and i think that one of the guys who works there is a UK champ? It will also allow me to look into the chassis... However i can see me ending up with a Sprint to start with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louder Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Not a problem at all, that is what we are all here for. Everyone on here is dead friendly so if you have any questions just ask. The guys at Radshape should be able to sort you out. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cole Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Wow.. What a day! Ok so still not made a purchase yet however i am itching to after trying a few on the track today... I tried an e10 and after a few minutes i really got to grips with it, for a cheap entry level car it went well, however i did find it a little?... I don't know sloppy maybe? I found it would slide ok but the balance wast great (says the novice who has no idea what he's on about ) so i put that down to me... I then was offered a go with a Yokomo DIB the fist thing i noticed was how hard it was to control! it had a CS2 upgrade and the arse end just always wanted to come round, at first i though, no way! This is not the right car for me..... 5 mins later and i didn't want to give it back! OK so i know thats 2 completely different ends of the spectrum, one is worth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louder Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Yes the DIB is a great car. If you are looking for something with CS I would push you towards the 3Racing D3 CS sport. Fantastic chassis for the money. It did really well at the winter D1RC and upgrades are really cheap. It is an outstanding chassis and great value for money and means you have some more cash to spend on electronics and upgrades. It's good to hear Radshape have a lot of upgrades for it though. I didn't know they had them there so thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_hawk111 Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 If you going for a d3 I know a mate that's selling a pretty well sorted one, think it's brushless, 2.4ghz gear etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cole Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 (edited) Cheers for the further help guys "b_hawke111" i have sent you a message pal could be very interested in that as its a great starting point... i don't think i can justify the DIB just yet... I can't believe how friendly everyone is in the drift community! nothing like my old TC days every one both on here and at Radshape have been great! I can't wait to get into it Question... Most the D3's are all plastic (near enough) however there are a couple of full carbon and alloy D3's on the bay for only Edited August 19, 2014 by Steve Cole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louder Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 The ones that are carbon & alloy prebuilts are copies yes. The all plastic design isn't a bad thing. It keeps it light and keeps the flex where it is needed. The only alloy parts I run are the steering, the rear bulkhead with tensioner and pulleys. Everything else i have left plastic. The alloy parts just add weight that you can't move around. The carbon chassis, while nice, overall don't make too much of a difference. I find the stock plastic chassis is better simply because it has less flex and as a result gives me more control over the ride as you can't adjust chassis flex but you can adjust suspension. Plus the stock chassis have slightly curved edges underneath and I find if I am on a poor surface and I haven't swept well the chassis tends to ride over any small stones rather than hit them (on a very low ride height). That is down to personal preference. I have had the laminate on an SSG chassis split on an impact which I felt was pretty bad. The carbon chassis also require you to change the battery mount to carbon as well, meaning you have to buy yet more parts and seeing as I am perfectly happy with the stock chassis I don't feel it's worth the upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavyleftthumb Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 hi pal, welcome to the "lots going on - i dont know what to do" i think the guys above have got it pretty much covered. I started with a tt01 which was a standard tourer car then locked the diff and put some drift wheels on and dirfted it, and it is good cheap fun. I then went to a sakura d3 and again it agreat drifter and was a little weird to get the different technisue for a counter steer drifter but it performed well. Each car has its good and bad points. and it all depend how much you are wanting to spend. YOu can spend cheap and then spend lots on upgrades and parts. or buy more expensive but less on upgrades. I would say you did the best option and tried before you bought, try friends cars and go to drift meets and see what is run and what set ups people are running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cole Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Ok guys, Cheers for the help... think i will stick to a standard D3 kit then... i was toying with the idea of the plastic dib but its another Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louder Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Yep, start with the plastic kit, there are a few upgrades for the D3 I would recommend. The wide angle steering drives and alloy steering and then the rear bulkhead with tensioner but it is good to go otherwise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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