Jolly_roger_uk Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 (edited) After a lot of success with this fix, I thought I'd share it. If you own a GT3C, the chances are you will have a problem with it turning on and off when rotating the wheel. Sometimes they go completely and won't turn on at all. The cause of the problem is due to a pretty basic design flaw. When wires are attached to moving parts they are placed under a certain amount of strain, and it is important that firstly the type of wire used is up to the job, and secondly that there is a sufficient amount of wire to allow for the movement. Neither is the case here! If you have this problem, its pretty simple to fix for good, you'll need some basic tools, a good soldering iron, and some nice 'flexible' silicon wire. A servo lead would be ideal! Firstly you'll need to dismantle the steering assembley. The power button just pops out, reveling to little screws that hold the wheel on...... Undo these screws and remove the wheel Now undo the two screws that hold the steering assembly to the radio case, followed by the 3 screws holding the switch case together. When the screws are removed, you can split the case to gain access to the switch. There will be enough length on the leads to slide the switch out.... The problem will most likely be a break in the wire somewhere near the switch. Remove the heatshrink, and desolder the wires. When removed, give them a tug and you'll probably end up with something like this.... So we've found the problem. Now all we have to do is fix it! Attach your nice new silicon wire to the switch and slide it back into position, I wouldn't recommend using heatshrink here, because you will loose flexibility in the wire...... Desolder the original power button connector from the PCB.... Then attach your wires as shown. You could attach them to the original locations, but I found the through holes in the PCB a little too small for the wire I used. I think servo lead will be ok though. I use a little hot glue to secure the wire.... And the same at the switch... Re assemble and enjoy!! Edited September 20, 2012 by Jolly_roger_uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-RcDrift Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 i had this problem and the ebay seller sent me out a new wheel for free see how long it lasts though or I'll just end up following your guide mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 there is another thread on here doing roughly the same thing but with a new switch being added elsewere which seems tobe working really good as i havent heard of any breaking again but i like your idea aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhum51 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 thats right... here it is: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/141054-flysky-gt3c-test-results/ mine is still fine and nice to see other ways to fix it! at least this one looks like original controller. i noticed you have the othe version with the wire attached to the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme93 Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 glad you got my old flysky working buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GorillaZilla Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Aye, Yee olde High strand count silicone wire fix with hotglue to secure the wires where needed. Was discussed in the old thread, and its nice to see if put into practice and turned into a guide. Always thought it was the most elegant solution to the problem, due to keeping use of the intended on/off switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboyneil Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Problem with this fix is it will still break but take a lot longer to happen its the positioning of the switch isn't good that's why nothing works but to move the switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 On 21/09/2012 at 08:30, Jolly_roger_uk said: After a lot of success with this fix, I thought I'd share it. If you own a GT3C, the chances are you will have a problem with it turning on and off when rotating the wheel. Sometimes they go completely and won't turn on at all. The cause of the problem is due to a pretty basic design flaw. When wires are attached to moving parts they are placed under a certain amount of strain, and it is important that firstly the type of wire used is up to the job, and secondly that there is a sufficient amount of wire to allow for the movement. Neither is the case here! If you have this problem, its pretty simple to fix for good, you'll need some basic tools, a good soldering iron, and some nice 'flexible' silicon wire. A servo lead would be ideal! Firstly you'll need to dismantle the steering assembley. The power button just pops out, reveling to little screws that hold the wheel on...... Undo these screws and remove the wheel Now undo the two screws that hold the steering assembly to the radio case, followed by the 3 screws holding the switch case together. When the screws are removed, you can split the case to gain access to the switch. There will be enough length on the leads to slide the switch out.... The problem will most likely be a break in the wire somewhere near the switch. Remove the heatshrink, and desolder the wires. When removed, give them a tug and you'll probably end up with something like this.... So we've found the problem. Now all we have to do is fix it! Attach your nice new silicon wire to the switch and slide it back into position, I wouldn't recommend using heatshrink here, because you will loose flexibility in the wire...... Desolder the original power button connector from the PCB.... Then attach your wires as shown. You could attach them to the original locations, but I found the through holes in the PCB a little too small for the wire I used. I think servo lead will be ok though. I use a little hot glue to secure the wire.... And the same at the switch... Re assemble and enjoy!! How can I view these images need help with the very same problems ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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